Quote:
Originally Posted by area man
It'll take a day or two before I can get to it, but I'll let you know what happens with that test. Car starts up fine though. I can try the check valve too, as Joe Bob said, but since the system pressure is good, I doubt that's where the problem is.
Sounds to me like the WUR is bad, one way or another, given the warm control pressure numbers. I know there's a big thread on this, but... Leask vs. DWUR? Any opinions?
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Don't jump to conclusions about the WUR being faulty. The WUR is a simple device with the most complex part being the heating element and the bimetallic arm--both of which appear to be working as the pressures do change over a period of time.
The low warm control pressure can be adjusted and in your case, fairly easily because you wish to increase warm control pressure.
Once you know the engine and WUR are completely warmed and the fuel pressure is as high as it will go (pressure gauge set attached), you can gently
tap down on the cylinder in the WUR body that holds the inlet/outlet for the fuel. With each tap, watch the pressure gauge and when it reaches spec, you're done. What you'll be doing is moving the diaphragm that regulates the pressure against the pin on the bimetallic arm--narrowing the gap and increasing fuel pressure. Do this slowly as if you tap too hard and the pressure goes too high, you will have to disassemble the WUR and press the cylinder upward in the housing and start over again. Not the end of the world, but something you should try to avoid. I've done this several times and used a long socket extension for a driver on the cylinder and a ball peen hammer for the tapping. Once you reset your warm control pressure, you will need to wait until the engine is completely cold and reset you cold control pressure by tapping down the round pin.
You're in good hands with Tony, and I don't foresee a major problem for you with your WUR.