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Thanks. No wear sensors on my pads (it's a '73).
I'll do the reset of the brake warning switch again and bleed the rear brakes. It's quite a PITA given the gravel guard, etc. Been thinking about replacing the master cylinder if I need a new switch: the MC is the original on the car (39 years old and yet to be rebuilt) but the brakes are solid even at high speed (see below) without even a hint of sponginess or fading. Thoughts? Do master cylinders tend to fail gracefully or catastrophically?
What about the brake lights not working? The brake warning light isn't used to indicate a brake light failure problem as well, is it?
Any idea how to test the brake pedal switch and the circuit from the switch to the brake light (I saw a thread on using jumpers to test the continuity of the circuit, but can't seem to find it now)? Is there a relay in brake light circuit?
I had the rear light housings out so decided to do a light cleaning/renewal of them so probably won't be able do any further troubleshooting for a couple of days.
BTW, had the car out on SH130 -- the new "fastest highway in America". Beautiful road, car was pretty stable, got close to redline at which point the front end got a little light -- next time I'll fill the tank before starting a run up that road . Appropriately, the road goes right past the Circuit of the Americas, where we'll have the first F1 race in the US, in what, 5 or 6 years?
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