Quote:
Originally Posted by Deschodt
Had the battery tested and it's fine. So I gave in and bought a cheapie MM to double check. Guess what ? Both fuses on my good MM were fried despite looking great ! The cheapie unit shows a 48 miliAmps drain. Now I can start trouble shooting ! (And searching for those fuses, good luck to me).
Is it ok to leave the MM connected between battery and cable for a few minutes while popping fuses or is it a 10 seconds thing ? Don't wanna fry both!
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Greg,
Using the milliamperes setting is the right way. I have three (3) MM, a Fluke, Sear, and HF (free sample). They all work for tracing this power drain in the car battery. Anything less than a 100 mA is desirable. One thing I learned from this experienced auto electrician was how to connect the MM for the said test. The MM was initially connected parallel connection before the negative cable is disconnected to form a series connection. I was skeptical at first at this method. The electrician was highly recommended by a reputable shop as one of the best in the area. I was able to locate the circuit and fix the problem.
Tony