That's what I would tend to do as I have always been taught not to bottom studs into holes.
However, I was reading an article only yesterday about Subaru engines and Cosworth Cylinder Head Studs.
They make a stud for these engines from a H11 Tool Steel and one of the features that they advertise is a 'base seating' feature which they say is to evenly distribute the maximum load on the stud and not the thread.
The studs have a hex socket broached into one end and what looks like a dog point on the other.
It seems as if they have machined a few threads off the end that fits into the blind hole so the stud won't jam into the last few female threads and then bottom onto the dog point.
I have e-mailed to see if they will send me instructions and will talk to a couple of guys I know in their Motorsport Division about the 'base feature' and see if they believe there is a benefit in bottoming out the stud in this manner.
We have recently made some Cylinder Head Studs to suit Magnesium Cases.
We made them from an Solution Treated and Age Hardened 6AL4V Titanium Alloy (170 000psi Tensile Strength) which will reduce the pull out forces due to expansion (because of the lower young's Modulus of Titanium and its Alloys). They have rolled threads and a fine pitch on the 'nut' end of the stud.
We had a socket head broached into the stud for ease of installation but due to my belief that studs shouldn't be bottomed out we didn't consider the base seating.
Just a few examples and clearly not a full engine set
