In reviewing past saved emails, I found this. I will try to document my travels as I go in order to show the steps I am taking. At least it will be cheap entertainment for those that have a solid understanding of this topic.
Relay kit component identification:
-Red wire "bracelet": Fuseholder. Simply snip the wire to
give two wire ends (one from each side of the actual fuse
receptacle).
-Cubical devices with metal pins: Relays. Each of these has five terminals as follows: 85 (trigger ground), 86 (trigger feed), 30 (power input), and two of 87 (power output). When you turn on the headlamp switch, the car's original headlamp circuit will be putting 12v across the 86(+) and 85(-) terminals, which will turn on the relay, causing it to complete the power circuit from 30 (input) to 87 (output), through the wires connected from 87 to the headlamps. *Each relay has two 87s: one for the left headlamp and one for the right headlamp.* One relay controls both low beam filaments, one controls both high beam filaments.
-Metal chain : String of terminals for wire ends. Simply
twist/bend each terminal off the chain as you need to use
it. Install terminals on the ends of all wires that will go
to the relays.
-Black hollow plastic devices with mounting tabs: Relay
holder/terminal blocks. After installing the terminals on
the wire ends, push each wire end into its correct relay
holder slot from below. It will snap lock into place. Then
the relay can simply be plugged onto the relay holder.
-Black square object with brown backplate, central rivet,
and three protruding tabs: New high-heat headlamp sockets.
Phenolic body and backplate, phosphor bronze contacts and
clamps. Strip no more than 1/4" of insulation from the end
of each wire. Squeeze one tab at a time, insert the
applicable wire, and release the tab to clamp the wire.
*OR* your kit may contain, instead, white ceramic "H4CF" socket housings with three terminals; these are Cermax high-heat headlamp sockets. Terminals can be secured to wires by crimping and/or soldering.
Headlamp terminal configuration is as follows (as you're looking at the bulb's terminals, glass pointing away from you):
Left vertical pin = Common ground
Top horizontal pin = Low beam Feed
Right vertical pin = High beam Feed
Therefore, the socket's slots and wire entry points are:
Left vertical slot (56a) = High beam feed
Top horizontal slot (56b) = Low beam feed
Right vertical slot (31) = Common ground
-Plastic object packaged with three brass terminals
("H4CM"): Male plugs to connect your harness to the vehicle's original
headlamp circuit without cutting wires. Crimp or crimp/solder the terminals
onto the ends of your relay trigger wires, max 14 gauge, push the wires
terminal-first into the plastic shells, where they'll snap-lock in place,
and then snap the shells onto the vehicle's existing headlamp sockets.
This gives you individual wires to work with, to trigger your relays,
without cutting off the vehicle's original headlamp sockets. If your kit
contains two of these, it is so that one can be used for low beam and common
ground, and the other can be used for high beam and common ground.
General relay installation instructions and diagrams are at
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply .
Yours is a 4-lamp system.