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BadToTheBown BadToTheBown is online now
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 1,112
Garage
Back to the beginning from the parts pile....


It also used the stock R1150R alternator that came with the engine.

I had not yet picked the heads up from the machine shop, so the top end came later.

You might notice a wood mount under the engine. It's homemade, very stable and how I start a build as EVERYTHING leads to the engine. I'll bet that's how they start on the production line in Germany as well.

I have the BMW alignment pins for the tranny install but I've also done it without them, so they are not absolutely necessary but make it easier.

I also have the TDC position locking tools and used them. You start with the pin in the back of the engine before you put the tranny on, then install the item below where the starter mounts to keep it there (you have to pull the pin to put the tranny on). Your conn rods are all the way out for this position. It's also a good time to reset your HES on the front of the engine if you are looking to advance it (I didn't with the 13:1 pistons). Don't forget to grease your tranny input shaft before you install the tranny.

This part below is black plastic and VERY EASY to leave in there when you put the starter on (ask me how I know this), so I added the REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT to remind me. It also makes it easier to pull out when the time comes. I think it is essential to use this for 2 reasons: 1) you hold the crank where you need it to time the cam gears upon install and 2) it's REALLY HARD to hold the crank when torquing the cam sprockets, this makes it easy.

__________________
BMW R1150sR - Project Touring Bike
Ducati Hyperstrada - Mountain Road Slayer
Porsche 914-6 Vintage Race Car
Porsche 944 S3S (S3 Studie)

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 05-17-2015 at 02:56 PM..
Old 05-05-2015, 02:18 PM
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