View Single Post
Eric 951 Eric 951 is online now
Registered
 
Eric 951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pensburgh
Posts: 5,644
There area ton of manufacturers out there--but below should apply to any of them, based upon metal framing and metal cladding.

As Sid mentioned--26 GA minimum--24 GA is better. Check on the finishes--Kynar 500 is usually standard--vinyl plastisol is a better finish but also more expensive.

Vinyl-backed blanket insulation is good--WMP-10--4" thick with tabs on both sides--if insulating (recommended) figure liner panels on the inside up to at least 8' to protect.

For the roof, corrugated screw-down profiles are easier to install--if you go with standing seam, it is a better-looking profile, more difficult to install, and more expensive.

Figure louvers or wall supply fans to draw air in, roof exhaust or natural gravity vents to keep the air flowing--many pre-fab manufacturers use small ridge vents(12" throats) or "hurricane" style round vents.

Use a good butyl tape caulk on your roof laps (and if you want extra protection, use foam tape on the sidewall laps)

Many manufacturers provide self-drilling fasteners--usually #10 head size--I prefer #14 hex head w/ bonded washer self-tappers with an AB point (can be used in metal sheeting laps and as an iron screws) carbon steel is ok, 304 SS is better but more prone to stripping, 410 SS are the best, but can get pricey. Of course, with self-tappers, you will need to pre-drill everything(#1 bits and #11 bits). But, with self-drillers, they are easy to oblong the hole while installing or snap.

If you have decent building skills, a good set of tools(see below), some buddies, and access to a rental facility where you can get a 6,000# capacity extendable reach forklift, you can self-erect. The key is making sure you lay-out the anchor bolts correctly for the columns--I recommend Hilti for the bolts and epoxy to set. Level/plumb your columns use come-alongs/turnbuckles for temp. bracing and take your time. don't forget to grout your base plates after the columns are set.

recommended tools--screw guns, 1/2" drills with quality bits, chop saw with metal blade or 6" grinders with metal cut-off wheels, caulking guns, 6' levels, hammer drill (for anchor bolts), compressed air/vac to clean out the holes, 1/2" drive impacts to rattle up the bolts, impact sockets, 1/2" drive ratchets/sockets. spud wrenches, bull pins and 2-1/2# beaters, wire rope chokers/shackles to set/hoist the columns, trusses and girts nylon slings for the sheeting. come alongs, vise grips, #11 C-clamps, tape measures, and a mag drill or torch set if you need to modify any holes, and a reamer. (and safety glasses/face shields, ear plugs, gloves)

Study the drawings--double check the material packing list, check the structural members for correct punching, identify all pieces before you start.
__________________
Eric
83 911SC/83 944
bunch of Honda 750s
69 Chevrolet C-20 Longhorn (family heirloom)
Old 05-11-2015, 05:43 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #12 (permalink)