[wolfrpi]

The 4-wire will be fine for an N/A. It even works exceptionally well on my 951. If you want to be real precise about measurements and look for an extra maybe 5 hp go to a dyno shop and get a Horiba o2 sensor ($4,000) hooked up for precise readings. On a non-programable car though the Horiba won't help much because you can not vary fuel tables at different rpms and loads as you can with many of the Japanese cars. On Supras, a good tech can actually reprogram the existing computer to get precise air/fuel at different temps, pressures, etc. Our cars, at least our computers, usually require a chip change to achieve the same results.

BTW when I was going to have my car dyno tuned, the techs weren't going to charge me for the tuning as this process consists essentially of adjusting a pot on the MAF to to modify the entire curve. When the car is closer to dialed in, I'll take it to a dyno shop though for an A/F reading throughout the powerband to ensure that there are no "lean" spots.

Obin, the meter is an AF30. It has 30 LEDs and is pretty expensive now that I checked it out ($130+). You can still have it for $50 though as I am using a different EFI gauge that also measures electronic injector duty cycle.

Erick

[This message has been edited by wolfrpi (edited 05-01-2001).]