The reason most engine builders go with the gasket method is that the gasket can actually interfere with the passage. If the openings are the same as the gasket, the chances of interference are reduced substantially. When installing the gasket after matching the ports, we used to "tack" them in place with a dab of grease or two to make sure they didn't move while we mated the parts back up and essentially negate what we had just done.
There's also a lot to be said for just removing the casting flashing. You could make a template from some plexi or similar material, and make your own witness marks to do the scribing. If the studs are already removed, then just a cross hair for each location might work ok. Wild hair idea, try smearing something like fingerpaint on one surface, mating them up, remove and see where there is paint on the other surface. Never tried this one, though. If you do go with plexi, get some extra. Since you're already grinding, match the combustion chambers. It's not hard to cc the head yourself. Do that one after the valves are in. You'll need some form of graduated pipette to do the job. About any hobby shop that has chemistry stuff would have something to do it with.
If you are having work done on the block, consider knife edging the crank and align boring all bearing seats. In the casting and mass machining, the bearings for the crank and anything else are not bored absolutely concentric. This could cause some binding on the crank or cam or whatever, thereby robbing horsepower and potential top rpm. For a engine freshening, this is way overboard, but if you've already got it apart....
Dave951M
[This message has been edited by Dave951M (edited 06-10-2001).]
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