What to do about broken ac condenser

[zakthor]

Car is a '79 930 with a stock york ac compressor. Live in seattle and I drive it a few times a week, maybe 2k-3k miles per year.

Changing my oil last weekend. Went to pop the tail and it would only open a few inches. Reached in there and found a hose interfering with intercooler, eventually got deck open.

The black air conditioner hose that connects to the air conditioner radiator ("condenser"?) in the tail had broken free and jammed against the intercooler. I can see where the brass or copper tube is supposed to go into the condenser but the thin tube is just broken. Weird it just happened, I check the oil level pretty frequently and all appeared fine a week before.

Anyway. This is a seattle car. In my 'n' years of ownership never actually used the air conditioning to try and cool off. I just don't drive the car when it is that hot out. It did blow cool a few years ago when I remembered to run it on a hot afternoon (because ac doesn't like to not be used? Or something like that.)

Now that the system has lost its seal I'm sure the magic fluid or gas has probably all leaked out. Right now the hose is zip-tied to the condenser. I've heard condensers are impossible to repair, so I'm looking at some Kuhl unit for $700.

What all will be ruined if I don't fix this? Can I just plug the lines and pull the ac fuses and let it be a problem for the future? I hear that this ac sucks anyway, this stock system leaked gas anyway. Seems like there's no point me getting it all fixed just so I can continue to not use it. Or is there something precious about the ac system that means I should spend $700 + whatever else now to avoid paying more later?

Seems dumb to pay money to maintain a crappy system that I never use.

Thoughts?

[1979-930]

You answered your own question.
Remove the line and drive it if you don’t use it.
If the value of the car is your concern then fix it with a replacement part.
Nobody expects the factory AC to work so you’re safe.


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[Rawknees'Turbo]

Tube and fin condensers (the one you are talking about) are not impossible to repair, especially when the break is at or near a fitting, as you described. A skilled Tig welder would make quick work of that (probaby weld an appropriately sized sleeve/splice over the broken section, if there is room for that).

[full quack]

Take all that worthless crap off the car (pump, condenser, lines, belt etc., etc.) and remove precious weight out of the rear of the car. It all adds up to more than you would initially think.
Put it in a box on a shelf in your garage, and forget about it.
Cleans up the engine bay as well, total win, win situation.
Nobody need A/C in Seattle!!
Mark

[911tracker85]

I have the AC system I removed from my 78 SC / 930 conversion I am willing to sell. it has the 1/2 bay condensor that fits next to the stock IC. but have no idea if the condenser is solid.

It all adds up to more than you would initially think. Put it in a box on a shelf in your garage, and forget about it.

I did that to my 85 911 incl all hoses. if I recall 52 lb.

[zakthor]

Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo

Tube and fin condensers (the one you are talking about) are not impossible to repair, especially when the break is at or near a fitting, as you described. A skilled Tig welder would make quick work of that (probaby weld an appropriately sized sleeve/splice over the broken section, if there is room for that).

I had no idea copper and brass could be tig welded, thought it needed soldering. I love that solution. Broke right where tube enters the condenser, tricky to get the tip to the joint on the far side.

I’d be fine removing 52# of unused volume but... I’d end up putting it in boxes and I exceeded my used car parts storage a few years ago. If I can’t fix the condenser I’ll remove the ac.

Now just need to find a skilled rig welder... or is this my excuse to buy a tig?!

[Rawknees'Turbo]

^^^

I must be some special kind of a dumbass , because I was thinking that those condensers were all aluminum. Regardless, it wouldn't hurt to remove it and take it by a welding shop to see if they think it's fixable.

[Bigtoe32067]

Take it to a radiator shop. I’ve had them repaired before
Tony

[zakthor]

Originally Posted by Bigtoe32067

Take it to a radiator shop. I’ve had them repaired before
Tony

Ya!

Took it to welder, he says it’s copper that’s silver soldered to the steel frame, said go to radiator shop. Rad shop said too hard, he doesn’t have the right double tipped torch, go to big commercial radiator shop, Seattle Radiators said it’s pretty involved, to make it last he’s gotta do this and this and that, guy used to build condensers at kenworth.... is going to be $50-$70.

Should be ready in a week. We’ll see but this feels like the right path.




Got to meet people in Seattle that still work for a living.

[zakthor]

$75 including pressure test AND a lesson in silver soldering. Radiator shop was great advice. Thanks all.

[S1000RR]

Now, which refrigerant?

[zakthor]

Originally Posted by S1000RR

Now, which refrigerant?

I just didnt want the system corroding or filling with spiders and grit. I'm on the fence on converting to r134.

Car is sure sweet to drive though.

[OZ930]

Regardless of which refrigerant you use, you will need a new receiver/drier, because the system has been opened.

I don’t know whether you drive in the rain, but AC is handy for demisting, so, I’d keep it working if you are not after extra performance.