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76 930 first start up issues

so finally my brother got around to starting his sweet viper green 76 930 after a complete engine rebuild. So the car started, adjusted the distributor with the strobe light. got it running good.
Let me back up and explain some basic things that were done prior to starting. 8 pin cdi is shot,didnt make ticking sound when you apply power on the bench. replaced with Msd street fire, fits great, same size as 8 pinner. got spark! motor went bang, good bang. Fuel distributor was professionally rebuilt, no leaking. fuel pumps new, Ignition distributor completely rebuilt. new fuel accumulator, dont think anything wrong with old one but hell, what the hell. The only major item left alone, Is the WUR. Im sure we will be tackling that soon.
let me back up even more. Car was purchased 5 years ago with motor completely disassembled as po was planning on building a 3.2. A big tree fell two feet in front of the car during a really bad wind storm. Yes, car was sitting outside for months becoming derelict (Michigan). Po said he didn't deserve Kermit, name of car, after almost being crushed by the huge tree. so he sold it to my brother who had been harassing him for 3 months to sell it, leaving notes on his front door as per his big brothers strong instructions to not relent and a six pack of Bud, bottles. The day we dragged it home, po was cutting up blessed tree with his own chain saw. Point is, we know nothing of the car operationally. well, we are finding out now.

we replaced the crappy US exhaust with fabspeed headers and Rarly8 muffler. rebuilt the original 3LDZ. everything else is stock. Just want the car to breathe better.

After starting car and let it warm up a bit, was driven around a circular driveway. Yes, like 5 mph. Brother called me and said oil temp was 230 then going to 250! oil is VR1 20-50. he said oil lines at thermostat were very hot, trombone ice cold. oil pressure was low. I told him to shut it down and do some investigating.

Other issues, when testing headlights, tested the high beam stalk and white smoke started coming out. come to find out this is a common problem.

Next, Tach doesn't work. perhaps wired incorrectly from the Msd.

next again, there is a second orange fog light switch mounted between the steering column and the climate levers. from all the internet photos I've seen, there is a moulded round indentation there but is not used. later cars used that location for a fan switch and 74-75 cars used that for the intermittent wiper control. Looks as though a Po at some time, installed a second foglight switch there for some reason. Point is, when the switch was pulled out while the car was running. the engine died. my brother calls me to tell me and asks why is the engine stalling when i pull the foglight switch. I said thats not the foglight switch, thats next to the cigarette lighter. Of course being my brother, He argued with me thinking his car is extra special and therefore he has a second foglight switch. What could that be ? a disguised kill switch? However, with the switch left on, the car will restart. Hmmm?
Now besides the rear end being stupid high, car is great.

So with all these gremlins, My biggest concern is the high oil temp/oil pressure. Perhaps the gauges are wrong but last time someone told me my gauges were wrong and just drive, I blew my B-Bomb go kart engine down the main straight at road america. circa 1986!!!

Old 05-17-2020, 08:04 AM
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It may be that both the engine and front cooler oil thermostats are bad. It happened on my car when I first got it. The 3.0 liter 930 engines have the small oil pump used by regular 911's which can show low oil pressure when the oil is hot. What is the cold oil pressure and what is the hot oil pressure showing at idle and 4000 rpm?
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1977 930 Slant, MS3 EFI, Carrera intake, Twin plug, Powerhaus headers, Magnaflow muffler, Garretson intercooler, GTX3071R
Old 05-17-2020, 10:01 AM
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You just reminded me, The oil pump was updated to the Gt3 oil pump I believe, its got the built in screen at the pick up.
I will check those pressures. the engine thermostat was not checked, boiled in a pot of water, just cleaned and changed the o-ring
Old 05-17-2020, 11:18 AM
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There is a rebuild kit for your external oil cooler. I seem to recall not terribly expensive. Do that and for gods sake get rid of the stock turbo.
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Old 05-18-2020, 08:55 AM
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Itís been a while, but my car ran hot with the trombone cooler when I purchased, Even with the thermostat working correctly. Rebuild the external thermostat and install an elephant racing wide mouth oil cooler with fan in the front fender, hottest Iíve seen it is 210 after a lengthily spirited drive on 1 bar boost (no intercooler).
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Old 05-20-2020, 03:20 PM
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OP do you have access to an infrared gun? it’s a worthwhile addition to your toolset. In this case you could shoot the oil lines, get temps at the heads, coming and going from various oil cooler lines observe effectiveness etc.
Retarded timing or too tight valve adjustment can add temps so 2x check that stuff too.
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Old 05-21-2020, 05:55 AM
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thanks for all of the suggestions
Old 05-26-2020, 11:03 AM
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Where is the ignition timing now? Too retarded means HOT but gt3 pump should clear that so there must be something else with the oil pressure. The sender is at the back next to fan. Oil level OK? Measure at idle when hot.
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Old 05-26-2020, 10:15 PM
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Ok now the idle started to shoot through the sky, the air screw is almost closed. checked timing put more retard, Idle came down but oil temp went right to 250. but engine runs very nice and smooth until shutting it down and got bang boom pop back firing really bad with over run after ignition is killed. The "mechanic" said: "buy all new injectors". easy for him to say. WUR is still an unknown, will replace with a freshly rebuilt one today
Old 06-10-2020, 08:59 AM
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Too much retarded timing will cause excess engine heat. Check for air leaks, could cause your high idle.

Rahl
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Old 06-10-2020, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infraredcalvin View Post
Rebuild the external thermostat and install an elephant racing wide mouth oil coole (no intercooler).
I agree with rebuild the thermostat but last i checked with chuck he was out of the coolers and had no real date on when he was going to get them again. that may have changed though
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Old 06-10-2020, 11:22 AM
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Fix air leaks and advance timing. Are you sure you have the correct zero mark for timing on your pulley?
Old 06-11-2020, 12:46 PM
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Thanks for your great information and good suggestions.
Old 06-23-2020, 05:06 AM
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I bet the CO screw is out of whack now. First make sure there are no vacuum leaks. For CO adjusting you need either gunson CO meter or wideband AFR meter to get it correct again easy and then do not turn the CO screw no more.

I'm not sure why you keep retarding the timing as it just gets it hotter. My engine loves 10-15 BTDC at idle so its not going to harm the engine.

If oilpressure is still a problem IIRC turbokraft had some problems with the GT3 pump oilring at one point but I cant remember what the symptom was but possibly low oil pressure.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:13 PM
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Great suggestions, yes the ďmechanicĒ wants to keep messing with the timing. He finally gave up and admitted that there is a massive air leak some where. I admit I did not replace the big fat o-ring at the base of the throttle plate that sealed to he intake manifold so Iím questioning that. The mechanic did spray carb cleaner around the motor to check for idle spikes if it was sucking carb cleaner but that didnít amount to anything,
Old 06-24-2020, 07:00 AM
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I would clamp off hoses that connect to the throttle valve/manifold particularly the aav valve, as a way stop air to the engine to see if it has an affect on rpm's. If the aav is bad, the engine can idle high.
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1977 930 Slant, MS3 EFI, Carrera intake, Twin plug, Powerhaus headers, Magnaflow muffler, Garretson intercooler, GTX3071R
Old 06-24-2020, 02:40 PM
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You coudd put a pvc end piece around the TB and glue a adapter for a pressurehose to it and give it 1bar pressure and see where it leaks. You would be suprised of all the places that hiss. My engine had odd problems that I could not relate to anything untill I took that pressure test and found several leaks that looked tight/good! Idle vacuum dropped significantly. Where is your idle vacuum now?

Even the bufferfly axle leaks but that I cant help and it serves as a bit of AAV for me. I dont even have AAV anymore but hand throttle.

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79 930: HX40Super, MS3pro+ID1000+044+E85, Ignition: 123/TUNE/MSD6A, BB+2*turbosmart38, WMI. Weight 1110kg
Old 06-25-2020, 01:11 AM
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