Need assistance with bench testing a 3.0 turbo

[gorskined]

Hello all

I’m almost finished with my 76 row turbo motor rebuild pretty close to stock with a few mild upgrades .cams long neck and a raptor mod k-27 . The motor resided in a 80 sc wide body car for the past 20 years . after a complete tear down . i would feel more comfortable running the motor on a custom stand for two reasons.

it's easier chase down any oil leaks or problems before final install . and it eliminate any gremlins residing in the car.

This being said the motor is pre computer so the electrical should be rather simple to make run on the stand .. i was hoping someone could lend some knowledge and share a few pointers and save me some time .. . fuel and oil i got its the electrical i need assistance with what wires in the engine connector i need to connect the 12 volts or any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance

Regards Ned

[gsxrken]

I can’t specifically help you with the pin numbers on that rear harness, but that should be pretty easy to use a test light on and see where you have power with key on, key twisted to start position. I don’t think the earlier cars have the forward 14 pin connector That the later car is used for the lambda computer and speed sensor under the driver seat.

I would warn you that I had a weird tach related situation with my CDI box. I had to rewire my car due to a harness fire and could not get spark simply because in the end I had reversed two of the wires that go to the rear of the tachometer that come from the CDI box harness. So just a warning that if you have 12 V to everything properly and you still don’t get running spark, your lack of a tachometer on the stand rig may be involved.

Please post your results. I am very curious about what you figure out, and how your 20 minute 2000 RPM engine break in works out on the stand. I’m reassembling my engine right now and contemplated this but in my case with welding up a stand etc decided it’s Probably more work than just reinstalling it, which needs to be done anyway. Now that I think of it, I have never seen an air cooled Porsche engine on an engine dyno. I’m sure guys have done this before I’ve just never seen it.

[dannobee]

If you just want a test stand:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/640430-wanted-build-engine-test-stand.html

If you want to dyno it before install, you're on your own finding someone local to you. 911's aren't anywhere as common as small block chevy or LS engines, so the options aren't commonly available, but they are out there.

[donbecker1234]

Seconded to look in the "911 engine rebuilding" forum.

[gorskined]

Originally Posted by dannobee

If you just want a test stand:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/640430-wanted-build-engine-test-stand.html

If you want to dyno it before install, you're on your own finding someone local to you. 911's aren't anywhere as common as small block chevy or LS engines, so the options aren't commonly available, but they are out there.

Thanks for the link i like the cart idea simplifies thing .. i have access to a similar cart.

[gorskined]

Originally Posted by gsxrken

I can’t specifically help you with the pin numbers on that rear harness, but that should be pretty easy to use a test light on and see where you have power with key on, key twisted to start position. I don’t think the earlier cars have the forward 14 pin connector That the later car is used for the lambda computer and speed sensor under the driver seat.

I would warn you that I had a weird tach related situation with my CDI box. I had to rewire my car due to a harness fire and could not get spark simply because in the end I had reversed two of the wires that go to the rear of the tachometer that come from the CDI box harness. So just a warning that if you have 12 V to everything properly and you still don’t get running spark, your lack of a tachometer on the stand rig may be involved.

Please post your results. I am very curious about what you figure out, and how your 20 minute 2000 RPM engine break in works out on the stand. I’m reassembling my engine right now and contemplated this but in my case with welding up a stand etc decided it’s Probably more work than just reinstalling it, which needs to be done anyway. Now that I think of it, I have never seen an air cooled Porsche engine on an engine dyno. I’m sure guys have done this before I’ve just never seen it.

Great idea about the using a test light .. Thanks

[Bucketlist]

Al (X Factory) is the first guy I thought of to ask:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qV7nLDojmJg

[Alan L]

Tony has one - search under 911 rebuild forum "boyt911sc" Uses it for his SC rebuilds.
Alan