My Turbo Project : Adding a turbo to a 3.2.

[flightlead404]

Some pics of my ignition harness.

[kamaro]

Some update :

I have decided to go with COP instead of EDIS as per flightlead404 advice. I'm happy to take that step as it seems like a much better ignition system. I ordered a set of COPs and pigtail connectors and since it will take some time to arrive (thanks to COVID!), I have decided to fill my time with some other stuff, I decided to go through my fuel system (new tunnel lines and new pump), this is where I was shocked to see how dirty my fuel tank is!, the strainer on the drain plug was completely deteriorated, and found a ton of rusty debris inside!, I will do my best to clean it out and ordered a new drain plug and some gaskets from PP.



Next, I decided to drop the engine to swap the 915 with the SBH 930 I have laying around, where I discovered that I needed new longer bellhousing studs, I ordered a set of them and when I installed them I found that they are a bit longer than needed .. I can use some spacers, but it wont look as nice. anybody knows the correct part numbers for these studs on a SBH 930?

[flat6pilot]

I just did this exercise on my SC.

Note that Porsche does not include the portion of the thread that is screwed into the case (~15mm). So when they say a stud is 115mm, it's actually 130mm end to end. Keep that in mind if you order a stud from say, Grainger.


Starter side of bell housing (Pax Side):
Bell housing width = 93mm
Starter flange is 12mm
I needed at least 115mm stud (bolt/washer is 10mm)
900-061-081-01-OEM STUD M10 X 115(1980 Porsche 911 SC Coupe)(m) These were on special order from Germany with a 5-6 week wait. I declined and used a steel 125mm stud from Grainger.

Bottom Left (Pax Side) and Top Right (Driver Side):
Bell housing width = 70mm
930-101-175-00-OEM Crankcase Stud (M10 X 85mm, sold individually)


Bottom Right (Driver Side):
Bell housing width = 64mm
I ended up reusing the one in there and flipped it 180. That gave me a little more thread.

[kamaro]

Oh, so thats what missed up all of my measurements! .. I thought they were talking about the total length (which makes more since in the first place), I wish I knew that before spending the time and money.

Thanks so much for the info., I will go ahead and order them today.

Originally Posted by flat6pilot

I just did this exercise on my SC.

Note that Porsche does not include the portion of the thread that is screwed into the case (~15mm). So when they say a stud is 115mm, it's actually 130mm end to end. Keep that in mind if you order a stud from say, Grainger.


Starter side of bell housing (Pax Side):
Bell housing width = 93mm
Starter flange is 12mm
I needed at least 115mm stud (bolt/washer is 10mm)
900-061-081-01-OEM STUD M10 X 115(1980 Porsche 911 SC Coupe)(m) These were on special order from Germany with a 5-6 week wait. I declined and used a steel 125mm stud from Grainger.

Bottom Left (Pax Side) and Top Right (Driver Side):
Bell housing width = 70mm
930-101-175-00-OEM Crankcase Stud (M10 X 85mm, sold individually)


Bottom Right (Driver Side):
Bell housing width = 64mm
I ended up reusing the one in there and flipped it 180. That gave me a little more thread.

[Geronimo]

I love that you have a 930 SBH just laying around....

I have all but given up on my stupid 911.

Your project gives me hope... if only I had a SBH laying around. LOL

[quattrorunner]

Originally Posted by Geronimo

I love that you have a 930 SBH just laying around....

I have all but given up on my stupid 911.

Your project gives me hope... if only I had a SBH laying around. LOL

It wasn't laying around before he bought it and prepped it.

[kamaro]

Originally Posted by quattrorunner

It wasn't laying around before he bought it and prepped it.

Yeah thats true, I have bought it a while a go already been shortened and prepped, it was used but in over-all good condition, I took it apart to see what I was getting and it looked decent, anyway I will find out when I will have the car running again.

[Geronimo]

Originally Posted by quattrorunner

It wasn't laying around before he bought it and prepped it.

I was literally quoting what he said.... relax. geez.

[kamaro]

I just got the engine/trans assembly back in the car, everything went very well except when I wanted to install the trans mount, the bolt holes on the car chassis doesnt line up with the mount, they are 25mm far as seen in these pics :




I got the 930 mount used from a fellow forum member, it looks the correct one, I couldn't find any part numbers on it, is it the correct one? :





I'm ready to cut/weld the mound to the correct shape, but would like to hear from you first.

BTW, I'm sure the trans is in the correct spot, the clutch, shifter, gas pedal rod, are all aligned correctly and working as they should.

[flat6pilot]

That being the turbo support, have you tried rotating it 180°?

[kamaro]

Originally Posted by flat6pilot

That being the turbo support, have you tried rotating it 180°?

Rotating it 180 makes things even worse.

[Bucketlist]

This is the way the alignment problem was handled by a PO when my turbo conversion was done.

[kamaro]

Originally Posted by Hot Euro

This is the way the alignment problem was handled by a PO when my turbo conversion was done.

Thanks for the photo, I will take a different rout of cutting and welding the stock mount.

[kamaro]

I went a head and cut the mount into three pieces, I think thats the best way to do it.




I came into another issue, the rear cover of the transmission is hitting a metal piece on the chassis :



Now I need to remove the engine/trans again to get some clearance there.

I thought installing a 930 trans was the easiest in this project, it turned out to be its the hardest!

[kamaro]

I finally managed to fit the 930 trans correctly. Thankfully everything went very well, and now the engine/trans fit in the perfect position.

I cut and welded the stock 930 to make it at 25 mm off-set. My welds look like ***** but I think its strong enough.








Before I install the engine for the final time, I decided to modify the stock fuel damper bracket to use it to hold the Turbowerx scavenging oil pump, I decided to put it here to keep it cool, it will return the oil back to the engine case through the vent cover that I drilled and tapped in a AN6 make fitting.







I'm expecting to get the COP coils tomorrow, so I will spend the weekend doing the ECU wiring.

[kamaro]

I have been busy during the past few weeks, so no real progress happened to the project, except for the past few days where I was working almost daily during night, so here is the update :

I bought a cracked and tired turbo headers for cheap a while a go, I knew I will do that project one day!, so I started by trying to fix it by TIG welding a few cracks here and there :






I think it came out reasonably good, at least it would serve me for a year or so!

Next, I noticed that my turbo did not have a boss to drill and tap NPT threads to fit a barb fitting for grtting a boost signal, so I added some material using my TIG machine to get some good thread count for the NPT threading, it came out real nice (except for my rookie welds!) :

[kamaro]

I was searching for a good sized muffler that would be free-flowing, not so loud, and with side 3 in. inlet and two-side 2.5 in outlets, I found that MagnaFlow are the only place that has such a thing, so I ordered one (wasn't cheap!, $125!), it BARELY fit :







I want to elminate the use of any T fitting for the vacuum hoses, so I used a piece of 1 in diameter aluminum bar stock to fabricate a simple vacuum manifold, it came out nice and perfectly served my need :




Next, I welded on the blow-off valve to the inlet side of the intercooler, I know its better to fit it on the outlet side, but I'm running low boost anyway, and hopefully that wouldn't make a big issue.



Here is the final mockup of the intercooler in the engine bay, it fit nice with no interference with anything, I'm happy so far :





That was my latest update, hopefully with in the next few days I'll be able to start it up for the first time and at least try to get it to idle. wish me luck!

[kamaro]

Since my last test drive, I have noticed a tremendous amount of heat getting into the engine compartment, although I have used a turbo heat insulation cover, but it didn't help much, so I decided to disassemble everything and put in a real insulation foil :





Then I decided to build a real muffler pipes with some good looking dual tips :





I found a dual exhaust tip, I cut it into two separate tips, it turned out to be looking great.





The great thing about it is the total cost of the whole muffler and end pipes and tips, less than $200 total!

Now the sad part of the story, I have a nasty oil leak on the passenger side of the engine :





I tried to find the source of the leak with no success, I suspected the engine oil cooler, but its bone dry underneath the car, I wonder of the boost of the turbo would pressurize the engine case and cause the oil to seep out of the valve cover, I have the same breather hoses routed from the case to the oil tank as it was originally from the Carrera 3.2 engine, do I need to delete the breather hose going from the oil tank to the throttle body elbow? .. I even thought of cleaning the oil and fixing a go pro camera inside the engine compartment and drive the car to figure out where exactly the oil is coming from!

[flat6pilot]

Originally Posted by kamaro

I wonder of the boost of the turbo would pressurize the engine case and cause the oil to seep out of the valve cover, I have the same breather hoses routed from the case to the oil tank as it was originally from the Carrera 3.2 engine, do I need to delete the breather hose going from the oil tank to the throttle body elbow? .. I even thought of cleaning the oil and fixing a go pro camera inside the engine compartment and drive the car to figure out where exactly the oil is coming from!

I didn't have any issues when I converted my SC to turbo. No leaks before and no leaks after (10psi) When I recently pulled everything out for the transmission swap, I put on new valve cover gaskets. I'm now getting a small bit of oil seeping from what I think is both valve covers. I sort of predicted this as I though the valve cover gaskets were the cheap type without the blue gasket seal material. Sure enough, I started seeing a leak from that area... When I change the oil next, I'll use better valve cover gaskets.

I doubt you're getting leaks at the valve covers because of the boost. You shouldn't need to delete the breather hose. But I'm sure the pros will chime in with a better educated opinion than mine.

[Raceboy]

Excessive crankcase pressure is related to excessive blow by in 99% cases.
You can check whether you will get crankcase pressure when driving off boost for some time.