My Turbo Project : Adding a turbo to a 3.2.

[kamaro]

I had that idea in my mind for a while, and I finally decided to go a head and invest into that project. I tried to get things done as cheap as possible (I know what you're thinking, but at least I'm trying my best to keep the cost low), so far these are the parts that I have purchased with their price :

1- Pulsar Chinese turbo GT35 style : $600.
2- CX Racing intercooler kit : $280
3- Microsquirt ECU : $360
4- TurboSmart 40mm wastegate : $280
5- Used turbo headers : $180
6- Clewett Engineering crank pulley with built-in 36-1 trigger wheel : $420
7- EDIS ignition parts : $200
8- IAT & TPS sensors : $35
9- misc parts : $100

Total cost so far : $2455

The 1st step I did was modifying the IC, it was very straight forward, I cut off the inlet pipe and drilled another hole to align it with the turbo outlet :

[kamaro]

Then I started modifying the engine tin to accommodate the turbo and the inlet/outlet hoses.











I'm very happy with the fitment, the IC fits very well but hopefully it will flow as good. My next step will be installing the Microsquirt ECU and doing all the associated wiring.
I know this build is far below the standard, but I'm trying my best to get it as simple and effective as I can.

[Bigtoe32067]

I don’t know anyones standard this is below and if there are then they don’t count anyway.

This is a crazy cool project and I for one am excited to follow it. I’ve been thinking about doing it for years but I don’t really want my car down while I do it. At least that’s my weak excuse.

Keep taking pictures and updating the thread, I’m sure there are many people following but maybe not commenting so don’t let a lack of commenters get you down. We’re still here just watching quietly
Good luck
Tony

[gsxrken]

How big is the automobile scene in Qatar? Are there numerous tuning shops or barely any?
Good luck with your project! You’ll need to work out turbo oiling, sumo tank, and a scavenging pump situation. Don’t think I saw that on your list.

[1Bad86]

I'm all about garage builds. Standards don't matter when you have the gut's to try something the first time. I've had mine for 16 years and there's still things that I want to redo after "experimenting" with them the first time. Have fun with it since these cars got to the point where people weren't doing this for awhile.

[flightlead404]

I'm curious why you think you need EDIS for this project.

With the 30-1 trigger wheel and a VR sensor plus your Microsquirt there's no need at all for EDIS, it just complicates the problem.

[kamaro]

Originally Posted by Bigtoe32067

I don’t know anyones standard this is below and if there are then they don’t count anyway.

This is a crazy cool project and I for one am excited to follow it. I’ve been thinking about doing it for years but I don’t really want my car down while I do it. At least that’s my weak excuse.

Keep taking pictures and updating the thread, I’m sure there are many people following but maybe not commenting so don’t let a lack of commenters get you down. We’re still here just watching quietly
Good luck
Tony

Thanks for the kind words, I'll do my best to document my project here.

Originally Posted by gsxrken

How big is the automobile scene in Qatar? Are there numerous tuning shops or barely any?
Good luck with your project! You’ll need to work out turbo oiling, sumo tank, and a scavenging pump situation. Don’t think I saw that on your list.

It is quite big, people loves car sports in general and we have quite few racing clubs, but unfortunately not so much with the classic Porsches. There are plenty of tuning shops, mostly American and Japanese cars, to tune my MS I need to get in touch with the JDM guys here as they mostly use it. My idea about the oil scavenging is to use gravity to get oil back to the oil drain plug in the case, this is a dual ball bearing turbo and should not need large amount of oil, I will try this way otherwise I plan on using a small electric scavenging pump to take the oil back to the oil tank.

Originally Posted by 1Bad86

I'm all about garage builds. Standards don't matter when you have the gut's to try something the first time. I've had mine for 16 years and there's still things that I want to redo after "experimenting" with them the first time. Have fun with it since these cars got to the point where people weren't doing this for awhile.

I got a totally stock '87, so I thought I should play around with different things on this '77.

[kamaro]

A question for all the guys who did a turbo conversion : What did you do with all the vacuum lines connected to the throttle body?, I believe I need to secure all of them very will so they wont pop out during boost, right?

[Jim2]

Nice project you got going there and in no way is it "below standard".

I'm amazed at how nice the aluminum on your engine looks, no moisture corrosion I guess unlike here. And no need for heat!

[quattrorunner]

Very cool. Subing.
Btw I’d plan now to just get an electric oil pump to draw the oil out and into the breather cover. It’s pretty simple and most guys end up doing it anyway.

[jons911]

Kamaro, the vacuum lines shouldn't be a problem. I bought new vacuum lines and just plugged them into the stock 3.2 throttle body when I plumbed everything. I haven't been able to do too much tuning yet, but it has seen 170-180 kpa enough and I've had zero issues with lines staying on. From the turbo to boost controller and all the lines on the throttle body, none of them have clamps or anything. I will say the one thing I did do was be meticulous about making sure the lines and fittings were all sized appropriately to work together.

[quattrorunner]

Originally Posted by jons911

Kamaro, the vacuum lines shouldn't be a problem. I bought new vacuum lines and just plugged them into the stock 3.2 throttle body when I plumbed everything. I haven't been able to do too much tuning yet, but it has seen 170-180 kpa enough and I've had zero issues with lines staying on. From the turbo to boost controller and all the lines on the throttle body, none of them have clamps or anything. I will say the one thing I did do was be meticulous about making sure the lines and fittings were all sized appropriately to work together.

Agreed most vacuum lines are just fine as is. Larger lines that are clamped on the na car obviously need clamps.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by kamaro

A question for all the guys who did a turbo conversion : What did you do with all the vacuum lines connected to the throttle body?, I believe I need to secure all of them very will so they wont pop out during boost, right?

For those that were needed (e.g. I am currently using one for MAP, the one below the butterfly) I purchased new silicone tube.

For those unneeded (all the rest) I purchased silicone caps then used a little safety wire tightened around them to ensure they won't blow off.

[kamaro]

In the past two days I was working on removing all the stock DME and its harness from the car, and then I custom-made a new harness for the Microsquirt ECU, that took a lot of time since you need to do everything from scratch and making sure you got all the wiring right, it wasn't too hard but really was time consuming. Then I made a mounting bracket for the ignition coil pack and the EDIS module out of 1/16 in aluminum sheet and bolted it to where the heater blower was on the intake, I feel this is the best location for it away from the heat and with good reach for the spark wires.

First, I tried using a generic Bosch TPS and made a simple bracket to attach it to the throttle body, it worked very well with only one issue, the connector will face down and hit the intake plenum, I solved it by soldering wires directly to the sensor and problem was solved, but then I decided to go ahead and buy a nice TPS with a proper bracket from Clewett, it was a bit expensive but well worth it. I decided to put a new fuse panel in the engine compartment to power everything controlled by the ECU. Now I have everything loosely connected and I tried to connect to the ECU with my laptop and it was working as it should. Next step will be doing some wire management to get everything as tidy and clean as possible.

Now my next task is to discover my way into tuning the ECU to at least get the engine running. Anyone got a Microsquirt/Megasquirt base file for a stock 3.2 with EDIS? .. That would be a great way to start learning how to tune this thing.

[slow&rusty]

Keep the pictures coming! Looks great.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by kamaro

Then I made a mounting bracket for the ignition coil pack and the EDIS module ...
Now my next task is to discover my way into tuning the ECU to at least get the engine running. Anyone got a Microsquirt/Megasquirt base file for a stock 3.2 with EDIS? ..

Why are you using EDIS? It is completely unnecessary and just adds complication.

[kamaro]

Originally Posted by flightlead404

Why are you using EDIS? It is completely unnecessary and just adds complication.

I thought its a simple and reliable ignition system. Honestly, I have no background in regard to all this, I'm learning my way through so if you have a better idea to control the ignition please let me know, I'm here to learn from you guys

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by kamaro

I thought its a simple and reliable ignition system. Honestly, I have no background in regard to all this, I'm learning my way through so if you have a better idea to control the ignition please let me know, I'm here to learn from you guys

All you need is a crank position signal, probably a VR sensor with 30-1 or 60-2 wheel.

Microsquirt cannot run sequential ignition for a 6-cylinder, but runs wasted spark just fine. So, no cam position needed.

MS can fire either COPs or smart coils directly, they get their 12v separately from the signal. Should be powered by a relay controlled with the fuel pump relay.

EDIS just sits between MS and the ignition components, but the MS is fully capable of doing everything without EDIS. The only thing you get with EDIS is "limp home mode" which if everything fails gives a static ignition timing (I forget what, 10 btdc maybe). But, since you're also using the MS for injectors, that limp home mode isn't going to help you much

I'd scrap it. Run VR1 directly with your crank position sensor, use IGN1, IGN2, and WLED or ALED as IGN3 to drive your ignition coils.

[kamaro]

Originally Posted by flightlead404

All you need is a crank position signal, probably a VR sensor with 30-1 or 60-2 wheel.

Microsquirt cannot run sequential ignition for a 6-cylinder, but runs wasted spark just fine. So, no cam position needed.

MS can fire either COPs or smart coils directly, they get their 12v separately from the signal. Should be powered by a relay controlled with the fuel pump relay.

EDIS just sits between MS and the ignition components, but the MS is fully capable of doing everything without EDIS. The only thing you get with EDIS is "limp home mode" which if everything fails gives a static ignition timing (I forget what, 10 btdc maybe). But, since you're also using the MS for injectors, that limp home mode isn't going to help you much

I'd scrap it. Run VR1 directly with your crank position sensor, use IGN1, IGN2, and WLED or ALED as IGN3 to drive your ignition coils.

Flightlead, you got me convinced, its so handy to control the ignition directly and to be able to test each coil independently, but I came into an issue, I just can't get the Ford coil pack to work with the ECU, I tried connecting a single LS coil to the IGN1 and it worded fine, but nothing out of the Ford coil pack!, does it need a specific parameters in the software to run?

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by kamaro

Flightlead, you got me convinced, its so handy to control the ignition directly and to be able to test each coil independently, but I came into an issue, I just can't get the Ford coil pack to work with the ECU, I tried connecting a single LS coil to the IGN1 and it worded fine, but nothing out of the Ford coil pack!, does it need a specific parameters in the software to run?

I'm not sure on the ford coil pack. I have actually had great luck with these.

An added benefit is they greatly simplify the installation, you don't have to find somewhere to mount the coil pack, fabricate a bracket, or route fat ignition leads. There I've saved you from finding space for and mounting two big components now, lol the EDIS and the coil pack.

I do recommend the hold-down's for them. Turbokraft has some (the bends need to be massaged a little for best fit) or simple to make your own.

Here are the connectors.

I used 18awg shielded three conductor mil-spec tefzel wiring and as I mentioned provide the +12v power from a relay controlled by the purple fuel pump control on the MS (you don't want to leave them powered up for a long time with the engine not running they can heat up).

Each of the 4-wire Toyota coils feature an inbuilt ignitor. This results in a direct connection between the ECU's ignition outputs and the coils trigger signal input.

Looking at the connector on the COP, from left to right:

[Pin 1] Earth / common ground: This grounds each coil to the body / earth, an electric connection to to the cam cover alone is not at all suggested.

[Pin 2] IGT / trigger: The signal wire to activate the firing of the coil, triggered directly from the ECU's ignition output. These can paired with another coil for a waste spark connection, for example using three ECU ignition outputs (IGN1, IGN2, WLED) to run six coilpacks.

[Pin 3] IGF / ignition feedback: Used by OEM ECU's to confirm the firing of the ignition coil. If a coil malfunctions the ECU will sense the lack of this fire confirmation and put itself into a fault / limp mode. This is not normally used at all with an aftermarket /stand-alone ECU and hence only three wires are used for each coil.

[Pin 4] Power (+) / ignition power: This is the main power supply for all of the coils, this power feed is activated when the key is turned to the "Ignition" position. The most common and suggested method of connection during a conversion on a four cylinder is to remove the power feed from the original single ignition coil and use it to power all four of the new coilpacks.

I've got more info on dwell and other configurations in tunerstudio when you get to that point.

Oh, very important and a little counter intuitive. In Tunerstudio use "Wasted Spark" NOT "Wasted COP".