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Yes, removing the cat from the turbo to put an aftermarket muffler on it. I'm only doing this to install an AFR sensor to monitor the fuel mixture. No room to do it after the turbo with the OEM cat and muffler.
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If you want more room, then you could remove the whole turbo assembly complete. That will give you better access to the 4 studs. You may end up removing the IC as well, but no biggie. 4 nuts/bolts on base of turbo, oil pipe connection at base of turbo and oil collector below turbo, and an up pipe connection somewhere. Muffler straps, and should drop out with luck. maybe need to remove rear bumper as already mentioned.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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I recently removed the exhaust nuts where it meets the turbo flange, including the studs as one came out with the nut, and another stud had previously been cross threaded. The studs were rusty so were not stainless on mine. There's very little room to turn a wrench. Soaking the assembly with PB blaster over several days helped. So did attacking the job over several sessions...slow and steady. Similar process to remove the wastegate. I had to mig weld bolts onto two studs to get them to turn on account of threads that had seen better days. Take your time.
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spoke, is your stock exhaust available that you're taking off? I am looking for a factory exhaust for that year. Please PM me.
Best regards, Ron |
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Belmetric.com is your friend. They have copper coated exhaust lock nuts and any metric fastener you'll ever need.
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Quote:
I'm changing the exhaust only to add an AFR sensor to tune the engine. Once tuned, I may replace the OEM exhaust.
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I'm finally getting around to removing the exhaust. Question is how do I remove the bumper? I see a clamp on both sides to hold the buffer piston but I can only see the inside bolt. Do I need to take off other panels to get to the bumper bolts?
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Quote:
Edit: I checked; oops. Nuts are under the trim pieces that travel from the outside of the bumperette edges around the side to the bumper. Last edited by DaytonaCoupe66; 05-31-2022 at 03:17 AM.. |
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I use a combination of short open ended wrench and 1/8" drive thin sockets. Replace with copper coated nuts and use nickel high temp anti-sieze.
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1987 M491 Widebody, Nautic Blue / Linen with a 1979 930 3.3L Cali Engine |
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What size are the turbo bolts? Need to get those.
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OK, the bumper is off and I'm wondering if I can add the O2 bung right on the Cat. Has anyone mounted an O2 bung in this place? It looks like it should fit.
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I'm installing an AEM 30-4110 sensor and it says:
'If you anticipate high EGT's (over 800C), run a turbo, ... you must mount the sensor 36 inches downstream as all of these can cause the sensor to overheat. ... For accurate readings, the sensor must be mounted before the CAT...' So it seems I can't mount the bung where I have it shown. The exhaust system isn't even 36 inches long to mount it away from the turbo.
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With a 930 the usual installation of the wideband 02 sensor should be as close to the turbo outlet as possible. There are probably some threads relating to this.
Mine is right about there and I have never burned one up.
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Steve 1981 SC Steel Widebody Outlaw in Pacific Blue and Artic White, 930/51 to 3.2l, K27 7006 Turbo, P&P Twin Plug heads, Twinfire Ignition, BLwur, Ruf Intercooler, Powerhaus headers, Zork, CIS Euro FD, 009 injectors, DOD, DP Lid, 044 pump, 930 4 sp LSD, Mocal 44 w/fan, LM2, Brembo, Retroair, Euromeisters. |
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Thanks for the replies. I feel a little bit better about mounting the bung so close to the turbo. Question now is can I weld the bung onto the cat? What material is the cat case? Not sure if it's steel or stainless. Has anyone done this before on the cat?
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I've not seen that done but 3rd'ing your locale choice is correct, along with your 2:00 orientation as shown in yer pic
I gotta believe the cat is stainless good move regardless installing wb02, imperative on these |
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Finally got the 02 bung installed and all wired up. Because the bung angle takes the top of the bung close to the bumper, I added a protection stud to keep the bumper from hitting the bung during bumper installation/removal. The stud is just a 1/2 bolt welded to the outside of the cat.
Everything was welded using stainless welding wire. All went well except for the protection stud. The shielding gas was on but I didn't notice the low pressure side had gone to zero so no shielding gas at first. ![]() ![]()
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I needed to make a hanger for the O2 sensor wires so I made a little hanger and used the threaded hole in the middle of the bumper. The hanger keeps the wire from getting close to the cat.
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That bung is in the right spot. Needs a down angle - to stop condensation on warm up.
And is close to the turbo - more genuine AFRs. Will work fine. I have not done one Bosch sensor in over decade on the track and extreme EGTs. Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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