Removing Exhaust from Turbo: How to Remove Nuts?

[spoke]

'86 930 stock turbo and exhaust. I'm replacing the exhaust and wondering if I should pre-condition the nuts on the turbo studs. Should I apply liquid wrench? Heat? Both? Tap on the wrench with a hammer or just torque them loose?

TIA, Spoke

[reclino]

I used an entire bottle of MAP gas to get mine free. Heat and patience.

[spoke]

Originally Posted by reclino

I used an entire bottle of MAP gas to get mine free. Heat and patience.

Thanks. Kinda what I thought. Did you just torque on the nut after heating?

[Alan L]

Red heat on the nut, then not much torque required. once moving, don't stop, keep it moving.
Alan

[DaytonaCoupe66]

I recently removed a B&B and wastegate from my '82. It reminded me of that meme "Broken bolt - only 1 second away from a two day job". The most difficult stud on the turbo/exhaust flange had been cross threaded, and the nuts were rounded. Slow process.
Start with the proper wrench(es), heat as recommended, and don't rush it. New studs will be stainless and nuts will be copper or titanium.

[M5guy]

I put headers on recently. I sprayed the fasteners with Kroil twice a day for a week. Overkill? Yes, but all 12 came off without a problem.

[pkabush]

Like Alan said, get the nuts cherry red. Heat is your friend here.
The first time I did this job I made the mistake of not using heat.
I broke 9 of the 12 studs. Not fun.

[1979-930]

Nothing worked on mine. Like pkabush all but 3 broke
I installed Time-Serts and new studs in all of them with the Stomski kit.
Mine were from 1979 and had 83K on them. So yours may be stronger.

If you get them out I would try to replace all the studs. I wouldn't trust retorquing them.

[icemann427]

Well, unless you have a torch hanging around the garage, you might try spraying them all a couple of times a day for two or three days with something made for that job to break them. I've done this quite a few times and they have always come off easy.

Geez, my 1,000th post!

[flightlead404]

https://www.amazon.com/Jet-Lube-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Conductive-Termination/dp/B009VO2O1Y when you reassemble

[donbecker1234]

Originally Posted by flightlead404

https://www.amazon.com/Jet-Lube-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Conductive-Termination/dp/B009VO2O1Y when you reassemble

Any particular reasons to suggest the copper (1800 degrees) over nickel (2400 degrees): https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-77124-Nickel-Anti-Seize-oz/dp/B000WXL1Q2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=13T95RG2GVNDT&keywords=nickel+antiseize&qid=1646681016&sprefix=nickle+antisieze%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-5

Some other advice I had been given on the exhaust was using the copper coated/covered nuts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EI3EB7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Alan L]

I use stainless nuts on these studs. Work great.
Alan

[Matt at Pelican Parts]

CRC makes a great product called "Freeze-Off" The idea is to spray the heck out of the bolt/stud to get it to shrink a bit and be able to crack it free.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/05002M633.htm?pn=05002-M633&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=812

For reassembly you should check out Wurth CU800. It's a copper anti-seize that's been around FOREVER and is rated for use up to just about 2200F.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/WRTH08938001.htm?pn=WRTH-08938001&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=812

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by donbecker1234

Any particular reasons to suggest the copper (1800 degrees) over nickel (2400 degrees): https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-77124-Nickel-Anti-Seize-oz/dp/B000WXL1Q2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=13T95RG2GVNDT&keywords=nickel+antiseize&qid=1646681016&sprefix=nickle+antisieze%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-5

Some other advice I had been given on the exhaust was using the copper coated/covered nuts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EI3EB7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just had good experience with it. ATM I can't remember if the nuts are solid copper or bronze, pretty sure copper.

[carrpet]

I used Titanium studs with Titanium nuts on the outer studs and stainless barrel nuts on the inner studs

[David]

The nuts would be copper coated not solid copper since copper would be too soft.

I've been using ARP studs and they've worked well without galling.

[spoke]

Thanks for all the comments. Really appreciate the ideas. Many have mentioned copper-coated nuts or titanium nuts. Where can I find these nuts? I didn't see them here on PP.

Also for removing the nuts and assuming I will replace them, along with penetrating oils, what if I used a Dremel tool to cut off the nuts? Perhaps it would be less stress on the studs?

I used the Dremel to remove the rear bearing races on this car. After struggling for hours with a bearing splitter and heat, I decided to use the Dremel and 5 minutes later the races were off.

[Alan L]

My first call would always be heat. If that failed, yes, a cut with a dremel would be an option, then heat again - rather than try and totally cut them free. you may have trouble getting a full cut along the nut, but even half way down may work with some heat if the heat alone won't.
Are you replacing the studs? If so, dremel is a useful option. Much easier if the heat works first tho.
Stainless nuts work fine.
Alan

[Speedy Squirrel]

I took this to mean removing the catalyst/muffler from the turbo itself. All of the above heat suggestions, plus a set of curved and stub box wrenches. You also have to take down the rear bumper, which is pretty easy. The turbo studs are A286 high temperature stainless steel, and the nuts are copper plated steel. All are available from Pelican.

[Alan L]

Yes - must confess - was thinking exhaust nuts. But same process on turbo.
If you have enough space for the dremel, and they won't budge directly with heat, you can cut a groove. You can go to the point of JUST seeing the thread line in the groove. That is usually enough to relieve tension and with some heat, should work. And the stud should still be intact if needed again. You don't have to run the groove all the way down the nut if not enough access, but more is better.
Alan