I have the same question. I am back and forth on using the modified holly TB and the stock 3.2/ The Holly has been modified with a Wiggins fitting so that one is solved, the 3.2 is another story. I know plenty have used them, just unsure of what worked best.

I did a little work mocking up the crank position sensor. I turned some aluminum spacers on the lathe to align it with the flywheel. I still need to grind a relief in the case and one in the transmission.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688356710.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688356794.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688356851.jpg

Here are 2 ways I've attached the intercooler to my Carrera TB in the stock location. One is silicone hose clamped directly to the TB and the 2nd fits over the TB with through bolts holding it down.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688832474.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688832474.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688832474.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688832474.JPG

So that through bolt design looks interesting. I could fabricate a similar adapter with the Wiggins adapter on it. Maybe even make it with the same height dimensions of where the adapter is on my modified Holley TB I am making. That way if I give up on the Holley, I could just swap it out.

I have to give credit to Chris Carroll for that design. The nice thing is, no risk of blowing off unlike the silicone hose method. Although I never had an issue with the silicone hose.

So I'm still playing with the idea of using this Holley TB. I have the complete 3.2 TB and linkage as well. I set up the O.E. TB and Linkage and took a bunch of measurements to see how close the Holley was to the progression of the OE.
Here is what I found:

The O.E. TB has a length of 1.194" from the center of the butterfly shaft to the center of the linkage stud.

The Holley has a length of 1.079" from the center of the butterfly shaft to the center of the linkage stud.

The OE closed throttle angle (to the linkage stud) is 55 deg.
The Holley closed throttle angle is 45 deg to it linkage stud hole.

So, I designed an adapter to make the Holley angle and length identical to the O.E. TB. Below is the 3d sketch of it mounted in the Holley TB arm. I am 3d printing a test piece to see how it clears everything and will further develop it to add a way prevent it from indexing. I can make a steel one on my lathe using a 4 jaw chuck to get the offset I need.




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688846142.png

I’m still trying to get my linkage to feel right so good for you to address it early. Isn’t 3D printing an awesome prototyping tool!

I use it a lot for prototyping. I was able to prove out the design, then having it in my hand and looking at my goal, I have decided to just add some material to the TB by tig welding some steels onto where the linkage needs to be and just drilling a new hole. I found a perfect shoulder bolt on McMaster Car that will allow the use of the O.E. linkage arm. I like this idea the most as it will allow me to swap out to the OE TB is I hate the Holley without changing the linkage.

I posted this on another thread but in case you didn’t see it, I prototyped my current intake before making from aluminum:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688925490.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1688925536.jpg

I feel you on the age. I took mine apart in 2013. dropped the body off for paint a year and a half ago.

Hey Ken,

I've been following your thread as well. You are really close to me, I'm in Jupiter.

David,

Just curious, what 3d printer do you use? I purchased an Ender 3 basic and modified it over time. It's still the same build area (though with reduced Z now). I added a better direct drive hot end and updated the main board + added a touchscreen display. I run it all over Octoprint and an Pi. It's been rock solid for about 2 years now. I run one production item every few weeks and slip in my photo stuff in between. It's more than paid for itself (10 times over) with the one part I sell.

I have a QIDI TECHNOLOGY printer. It's a pretty cheaply made Chinese printer but it's worked well for me. I print mainly with 3DXTECH ASA material.

https://www.amazon.com/Intelligent-Industrial-Printing-Precision-10-6x7-9x7-9/dp/B07JCKNQSZ?ref_=ast_sto_dp

Nice I am in the acreage!

Making a little progress. I started to tear the motor back down to check the valve clearance using the clay test. It's half apart at least. This summer heat has been brutal this year so I limit my time in the garage to evenings.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1694023424.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1694023424.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1694023424.jpg

I enjoy this thread. So glad you keep us updated on this interesting build. Just curious what field or industry you work in... I wish I had your talent.

I'm in the Information Technology field (30 years now). It pays the bills and I have been successful at it, but cars are certainly my passion. I also worked in a machine shop in my youth, where I learned the basics of machining and welding. I grew up working on cars with my father so it's in my blood I suppose. I am continuing the tradition with my son on his Subaru WRX.

Great build, enjoying it!

Respect for the 3d printed parts.

I am in Brevard County, been working software development in the space industry almost 40 years now. I would much rather work on my cars. Get a mini split AC system for your garage and you can laugh at the heat. :-)

John

I have been considering a mini split. I am still sorting the garage space out though. I really need to organize.

It is always a challenge to decide whether to work on your car or on cleaning up, selling unneeded parts, organizing your shop, etc.

I usually opt for working on my car. :-)

John