Continuing to make progress, but had to pause to get the proper cylinder tins. I was missing two of the side pieces (solid ones) and had 4 of the others.

Now here is the question I now have:
Looking at the PET there is nothing listed for the "additional sheet metal baffle that fits on top of each bank" for a turbo car. Looking at other build threads I see some with them, and others without. I would think that they would shield part of the cylinder from cooling air.

One thing I did note, tom84930's car built by TurboKraft did not have these in the pictures from the build thread. I am at the point in assembly, and I am leaning toward omitting them unless I can find information to guild me otherwise.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1290670714.jpg

This is the baffle I was noting above.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1694986304.png

So I resolved my cylinder tin issues and obtained a full set from a fellow Pelican in the classifieds as well as the two missing pieces I needed. This led me to my current side project, powder coating...

I purchased the Eastwood dual voltage system as well as a Jegs Powder Coat Oven (basically the biggest toaster oven I have ever seen). I do not have the room to dedicate a full-size oven at this point and wanted to start with smaller parts until I became proficient and was happy with my results.

I found the Jegs oven is a generous size, and did function ok, but I saw a need for improvement. The main issue I found was the temperature overshot by as much as 80 degrees and that it took a long time to get up to temperature. Once I pulled it apart the issue was obvious. They were using a temperature control that was reacting to the temperature within the control area of the oven, a few inches from the side of the oven cavity where the heating elements were. I pulled that thing out and installed a PID temp controller with a dedicated thermocouple into the oven. I also fully insulated the sides and top with ceramic batted insolation. This also protected the PID from the heat.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695432315.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695432344.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695432383.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695432417.jpg

Those are only for SC not turbohttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695649521.jpg

or engine M64.50 but not turbo as well as the have differnt lower baffles. But as you saw also, some use them on the 930 turbo too (but I am not convinced of the use there)

Those air guides are used on the 1991-92 964 Turbo with the 3.3L M30.69 engine.
Those 3.3L had fully finned cylinders.

Just saw he has fully finned ones. So they could be sensible (even if the lover ones are different on 964 Turbo as some other things there)

I did find that the original outermost tin I had was notched where the later ones are solid. I did acquire some solid end pieces. My car did have the above pieces noted for full finned cylinders even though the old cylinders were not full finned like my new ones. The car clearly had some work in its past as these were added at some point.

I made some progress over the holiday break. I reassembled the top end and timed the cams again. I pulled it apart to measure and remove the clay used to check clearances. I'm running GT2-EVO cams and had some head work done so I did not want to take any chances. All checked out. I removed all the old masking tape covering the intake ports as it was starting to fail. The glue was tough to get off at first. I tried acetone, alcohol, Las Totally Awesome, and simple green with no luck. It just smeared around. Just for the heck of it I spayed some PB blaster on a paper towel and WALA! It wiped right off. I made some 3dprinted covers with hold down. They came out rather good, I'm thinking of adding them to my other 3d printed products to see if they sell. The brass thread inserts make the hold downs spin on fast. Tell me what you think.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704572833.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704572871.jpg

Those port covers are sweet. Nice work.

John

Nice. What inserts are you using? Do they go in hot? e.g. with a soldering iron?

Yes, I have an insert press that uses a temperature-controlled soldering iron converted with brass attachments for the various size inserts. It keeps everything square going in.

That’s pretty hardcore. I just you a long bolt to hold the insert so can see if it’s straight, heat the insert for a couple seconds with a MAPP gas torch and push it in.

Engine’s looking good!

Thanks David! I feel like I am making progress finally.

As for the insert press, its a simple unit I grabbed off of Amazon for $60. I tend to use those brass insers when I can as they work really well. The press came with tips for M2/M3/M4/M5/M6(1/4) & M8 as well as a soldering iron tip if you wanted to use the iron as intended.
Here is a link to the insert press if interested: https://amzn.to/3TYpMYh

^ That’s cool, thanks!

hi David
nice solutions here.
If using the silicon adapter direct onto the throttle body, would it also be possible to use the stock 3.2 rubber adapter, so that idle control would still be utilised etc... and then to feed aluminium pipe into it where the AFM would have normally mounted?

Mike, I'm not completely clear on what you're asking, but it sounds like it's putting the IAC about where it would be originally. My current set up has it coming off the aluminum elbow to the original bung on the Carrera intake. You can sort of see it in these pics:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704827309.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704827309.JPG

Thankyou.
Sometimes what I'm thinking doesn't transfer to the page as clearly as I'd like!

Nice. I have a "drill press" originally for a demmel that I've adapted to do a few things like that. Do you have a link to the inserts you use?

I've been just embedded nuts into the print but the inserts are less critical dimensionally I think and probably scale better.

I have embedded nuts and that certainly works, but the inserts look a bit more professional and finished. Printed threads are ok to test something but just not reliable.

These are the inserts I used for this project specifically:
https://amzn.to/48uOGTC qty of 25
here is a larger qty of them:
https://amzn.to/3HfqWqC qty of 100

Here is an assortment I also use for other stuff:
https://amzn.to/41VpSl2 Metric
https://amzn.to/3tCgMgI UNC

Small update:

THE GOOD:
I completed the assembly of the long block, headers, and painted some of the tin bits.

I decided to add a knock sensor, so I made a spacer on my lathe so I could install it under the throttle pivot bracket. I am sorry I did not take the time to tap the heads for the factory setup using two sensors but at this point I am not taking it back apart.

I really like how my COP setup all fits. The coils fit perfectly and seal up the valve covers well. I am using an NGK plug with a shorter length, so this improved the fitment compared to the factory Bosch plugs. I feel like a heat shield on the lowers would be a good idea to protect them a bit from the headers.

THE BAD:
I am really struggling with the right-side turbo outlet position. If I put it where it gives me the most direct path to the IC, the wastegate binds on the side of the turbo. If I position it like the factory did on the 996, the outlet is facing the rear bumper. I am going to look at all of this once I put the motor back in the car to build out all the charge piping and get the IC placement right.

THE UGLY:
My son developed a rod knock in his WRX so my car may yet again get a back seat until I get him situated.

Here are some pictures since everyone loves pictures...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1735598376.jpg