The cold start is still a little rough, but after it warms it idles and runs great. I'll take it back in couple weeks for more tuning and a pull at 1 bar. If my tuner can't get the cold start to work better, I'll probably put an air control valve on it.

Craig, I hope you're wrong :)

If boost to hp is a linear relationship (I have no idea if that assumption is correct) and zero boost is 200hp (another guess), then 1 bar would be a little over 500rwhp.

The lambda pretty flat at .8 from 4000-7000, but it's a little rich from 2800 -4000 with a lean spot around 2200. Still more tuning to do, but we figured it was safe to put some miles on it at the lower boost.

I've seen boost *roughly* be about 18-22 hp per .1 bar - at least that's what I saw from a stack of dyno charts which a local shop produced after tuning EFI cars as well as and some CIS setups.

Oh, and I change my guess to an official 478 RWHP ;-)
(Didn't include some factors)

David, the Torque curve isn't what I expected, looking at the baseline on my car before the extensive build my car was making 210ft/lb at 2883 rpm. The car peaked at 4983 rpm making 360ft/lb of torque and held to 5533 tapering off at 5883 it was making 334. You and I have very similar builds and I was really pulling for you to put down 490 ft/lbs and really warping time. I think there is more in the timing and fuel map to be pulled out of your car. Great numbers for a 930 nonetheless.

David, what is the air/fuel ratio like.

Did they pop a fan on top of the intercooler when they did the Dynojet run?
In 2005, they didn't use a fan on my car; this past December dyno run they did.

They didn't use a fan they just sprayed water on the intercooler to cool it between runs.

The lambda pretty flat at .8 from 4000-7000, but it's a little rich from 2800 -4000 with a lean spot around 2200.

David,

I'm with Schnele... I thought you would be making more torque and the curve would be a little steeper around 3000-3500 rpm range and a little flater/rise more at the top too. I suspect there's quite a bit more with tuning.

But I'm sure it feels good to be able to drive her again :D

I think it's got a lot more in it. Maybe some others can chime in or PM my like porschephd. I honestly believe my tuner is about the best in town, but I think he's limited by the dynojet dyno. I know he does a lot of tuning on an engine dyno at someone else's shop. I'm torn between letting him finish the way he's been going, see if he'll do the tuning on someone else's dyno, or take it to another tuner with a different dyno.

David, at what RPM are you seeing full boost? I personally have no clue as to what you should expect for torque, but I wonder if there's somthing in this department keeping you from seeing higher mid range torque numbers as others are suggesting.

Jim

I found the dyno printout I got from the PO (strangely enough on the same dyno) and plotted it along with the new data.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1173201466.jpg

Make sure he puts a fan on top of the intercooler when running on the dyno next time.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1173203025.jpg

First run, it will not get hot at all, but on subsequent runs - despte the water spraying - it will get quite warm.

It really makes a difference - I'd imagine especially with EFI as the inlet temps are monitored and used to adjust your operating parameters.

No fan, sounds like that could be dangerous to me.
One thing for sure is that it is not going to simulate the car being driven at all.
It has been said that on the road fuelling may need to be tweaked anyway.

I think you might make your 1 bar goal with adequate cooling.

I've been fighting a problem where the left side spark plugs showed lean and the right side rich.

I suspected my fuel system was the problem since it ran in series. I re-ran the fuel lines to parallel where the fuel line split off to each fuel rail, added a Marren fuel damper at the end of each fuel rail, and ran the return lines to each side of the 3 port fuel regulator. Well all that time and expense did nothing for the problem.

I checked the electrical system to the injectors and didn't find any problems.

Then it was suggested I check the cam timing (actually my tuner suggested it right off but I was being stubborn). So after having two experienced folks tell me to check timing, I checked it and sure enough, I had the right cam too retarded. I reset the cam and now both side's plugs look lean. The lambda sensor shows the engine running rich, so I'm not going to worry about it til it's back on the dyno.

I finally got the car back on the dyno today. We worked on retuning it since the cam timing was changed then we got the boost control working. We turned the boost up to .9 bar and got 470rwhp and 402 ft-lb of torque with a really flat torque curve from 3000 to 6000.

Now for the latest problem: I guess a Centerforce clutch is only good for about 400 ft-lbs of torque (at the wheels) because the clutch is toast. It was slipping on the dyno, so it's probably making more than what I listed. I have less than a 1000 miles on the clutch with no hard launches. On the way home from the dyno it would slip in 3rd gear at 4000 rpm. If the pressure plate and flywheel are still good, I'll probably just put a puck type disk in it.

Great news David, Congrats on finally solving the issue good luck with the clutch.

Thanks for the update! Great numbers and good to hear your car is almost ready.