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Certified User
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Distributor query
While I have my motor in bits to fix some oil leaks and the clutch I thought I'd just check over my distributor and it seems that the vacuum advance/boost retard might not be working properly.
When I suck on port A, the arm pulls in and out as I would expect. It holds vacuum until I release it. However, when I suck or blow into port B, nothing happens. There is quite a restriction to airflow but it doesn't hold vacuum or pressure - its as if it the diaphram has a small leak. What is normal for this type of 930 distributor (1986)? One of the reasons I pulled the motor was to look for any issues that might be causing very low off-boost power. I suspected cam timing and found that it was set at 0.2mm (instead of 0.65-0.8). This may have been partly the cause of my low power problem, however if the advance and retard mechanism is kaput, is this also likely to be a factor? If the vacuum advance unit is stuffed, can anyone steer me towards a replacement source (new or used) without having to buy a complete distributor? ![]() |
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A fellow Pelacanite
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Telling us your engine type may help too. eg 930/66 etc etc
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG. Fitting - New service kit. Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head. 1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods. Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit. http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg |
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Certified User
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Engine type
Engine type is 930/68 = 1986 Turbo USA.
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Doug Siegel
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 314
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My US 88 works as follows:
pressure applied to right port: timing remained the same. pressure into left: retards timing (boost retard) vac into left: advances timing vac into right: advances timing Call Barry hershon to do a dizzy rebuild: 313 532 5350. I have a rebuilt one that will be for sale soon.
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88' blk/blk 930: Haltech EFI, Twin Plug, Pauter Rods, Nascar Bearings, custom crank work, dowel pinned case, ported manifold and heads, Kokeln I/C, SC Cams, Turbonetics ball bearing 62-1, BB headers, RARLYL8 Zork, additional 993 oil filter, plx/inyourface gage, RS style coilover, Fikse FM10-17 wheels, TIAL 46mm 1 bar. (where the heck did all my money go? ![]() |
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A fellow Pelacanite
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Billjam, is there a part number on the vacuum unit at all?
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG. Fitting - New service kit. Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head. 1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods. Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit. http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg |
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Certified User
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Nathan,
Absolutely no numbers on the vacuum unit but plenty on the body of dizzy. Bill ![]() |
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A fellow Pelacanite
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That's annoying as I would of compared it against mine for you. Mine is a euro car.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG. Fitting - New service kit. Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head. 1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods. Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit. http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg |
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Certified User
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Bump - I am getting closer to putting this engine back together and I still really didn't identify if my vacuum unit is stuffed or not ....
Quote:
I would like to know what happens when you blow and suck in each of the ports. On mine, port A seems to work, but pressure or vacuum at port B doesn't seem to do anything. Mind you, I was only blowing with my mouth - perhaps at boost pressure something happens? I'd rather be sure it's stuffed before I order a new $175 part from our host. |
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Acceleration Junkie
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Quote:
Note that it's very easy to draw almost a full vacuum by mouth, near impossible to generate even +1-psi by mouth. Get yourself a hand pump, even a bulb and rubber hose off a blood pressure cuff. Easy to generate 15-psi with a blood pressure cuff bulb. Port A is vac. retard (vac pulls timing out of distributor). A positive pressure on port A will do nothing. Port B is boost pressure retard (positive pressure on port B also retards timing). Vacuum on port B will not affect timing. Both ports should hold vac or pressure. |
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After the next project
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billjam
Question,
I have had issues and rough idle when the car is cold. I noticed this post and went outside to look at mine (87-930) and it is very loose, meaning it will toggle up and down. What does this part do and will it affect anything while it is loose? If so, I will be happy to take mine off and test for you in the process when I fix/tighten. Any ideas on the question above? Not trying to hi-jack post, just seemed relevant since you are on the topic. Thanks in advance, Bryan |
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Certified User
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Quote:
This surprises me a little as I would have expected there to be just one diaphragm in the centre so I don't understand why it holds pressure/vacuum from one side and not the other. This is just the excuse I needed to cut it in half to find out what is really going on in there! Bryan, if yours is loose you obviously need to look into it. What does it do? It alters ingition timing under boost and vacuum. Taking the vacuum unit off the dizzy while it is in place could be a bit tricky - getting it back on again will be even trickier as you need to hook the end of the linkage from the diaphragm over a pin inside the dizzy. It is really best to pull the whole dizzy, then you can see what you are doing in there. If you do take it off, I would be interested to hear if port B (nearest the dizzy) holds vacuum and pressure. |
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After the next project
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billjam
I may have to pull the entire dizzy out to tighten this thing up properly. Would it being loose affect how the car runs when cold and only when cold? When she's all warmed up it seems fine. When cold, she hesitates under any kind of load until boost kicks in. It seems to have been getting worse slowly that is why I think this may be the issue.
I would be happy to check the pressure/vacuum for you if I need to take it off. Thanks again for your help, I realize this is a little off your original topic. Bryan |
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Acceleration Junkie
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Quote:
If it's loose and moves up and down, not likely to affect operation. If it can move in and out, possible to affect timing. This said, every degree of proper advance yields power. I'd fix it if were mine. |
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Certified User
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Bryan,
There are a host of gadgets on these motors that affect hot and cold running and I am far from being an expert in this so I am afraid I can't really offer any useful advice on your cold running problem. |
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After the next project
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Thanks
Thanks guys,
I will fix. If I have to remove, billjam I will let you know regarding the vacuum question. Bryan |
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Certified User
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If you were wondering what is inside a vacuum advance unit, wonder no longer ...
![]() Mine is a bit stuffed. It seems like it has had its fair share of water over the past 21 years. Considering that it is actually exposed to the elements, it's surprising that there isn't a drain hole in the housing. Water can enter the boost side of the housing via the hole around the connection pipe, but it can't drain out. It's not hard to imagine water trickling down the outside of the hose and dripping into the housing. ![]() ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC Canada
Posts: 257
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Nice dissection Bill! Did it become obvious why the vacuum pull was working but the boost functionality was not?
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Dan 88 930 blk/gry |
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After the next project
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Bill
Was this giving you problems prior to the engine rebuild? Have you found a source for another one? How did it come apart.. was there threads between the two halves?
Great job on the pics, Bryan |
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Acceleration Junkie
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Quote:
For the assembly to have ever worked properly, the B or boost press port had to be sealed where it entered the housing. |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC Canada
Posts: 257
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IMO - the opening, in the case around the boost connection pipe, is there to allow the diaphram to equalize to atmospheric pressure.
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Dan 88 930 blk/gry |
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