Brian Leask or UTCIS for my 77 930???
 

I have read all the posts I can find on both of these units, but what I really want to know is what would be the right one for my 77 930 with SC cams, B&B headers, 46m Tial, euro fuel head and lines? I am leaning towards the Leask modified unless otherwise convinced to go UTCIS, I want to keep it simple, but also want to do it right the first time. Jamie

Do you have a problem with your AFRs?
If not then you don't need either one.
If so then it is a matter of how much money you want to spend and what type tuning skills you prefer - mechanical or electronic. The WUR doesn't care where the inputs come from.

Running pretty rich at idle, still waiting to mount LM1, and WUR needs rebuild anyway, car seems to take about 10 minutes of driving to drop idle down from 3000 to 1100, and sometimes if driving in cool temps it actually goes back into warm up mode and idles high. I am thinking Leask mechanical is the way to go for my application. Thanx, Jamie

Jaime, a lot of things can cause rich running at idle, but mostly it's simply adjustment of the control arm as the first place to start. And your excessively high idle which lasts so long is surely the result of your auxilary air valve sticking or staying open too long (could be the electric heating element is not working or unplugged - assuming - of course - that the 1977 930's have AAV's). Check out that stuff first, before assuming your WUR is at fault. Might save some unnecessary $$$.
Just my two cents worth....

To start with, I lent towards the Leask unit for its simplicity; then I got into UTCIS for its complete adjustability and ability to fix everything..

The UTCIS unit is now in the country, hoping to get it fitted early next week. Should get leaner pre-boost and quicker spooling, then flat AFR when on boost.. Can't wait :)

Mark, yes it still has AAV, can I just unplug it and use hand throttle in center console? What do you mean control arm? Thanx, Jamie

You can test if this is the culprit by unplugging it and sealing the open hoses which you just created a vacuum leak and seeing if the idle speed changes to within range. Once you unplug the hose into the inlet of the AAR you should be able to see if the slide inside the unit thru the opening is opened or closed or what. This slide moves shut as the car warms up and thus your idle speed changes. Looks like a crescent moon opening.
Don't assume the WUR is bad.