78' 930 tech questions

Zorked930 · 07:47 PM

I just picked up a 78 porsche with the 3.3 intercooled turbo. The car had been sitting in a garage for close to 10 yrs prior to me buying it. I bought it in non running condition...just made sure it turned over and I was happy. Once I got it home i flushed all the gas and oil and new filters for both and a new set of spark plugs. I then went ahead and tryed to start it, consequently all I got was a couple miss fires. Checked if I was getting spark and fuel at the injectors and that check out good. I then aligned the crank Z1 mark to the fan and pulled #1 spark plug and it was at TDC, then pulled the distributor cap but the rotor was pointing at #5 cylinder..so it seems like it may have jumped a tooth on timing chain. Was thinking about pulling the distributor and re-setting the dynamic timing..would that be a good idea. Any comments are much appreciated. I am not to familiar with the aircooled but everythings seems basically same as anything else. Also what kind of gas are you running, it says I need 96 octane so I did a half and half mix of 92 and 100 octane to achieve the 96, is this necessary? I'll stop talking now lets here what you got to say.

lucittm · lucittm's Garage

Zorked,
Congratulations on your new acquisition. As far as your timing situation, there is no timing chain. The distributor is geared to the intermediate shaft that drives the cams at the rear of the engine and the oil pump at the front of the engine.

It is possible that someone removed the distributor and did not replace it correctly. In other words, the engine was turned over, or more likely, the distributor shaft was turned when it was out of the engine. Quite possible if the distributor was serviced or inspected.

Ensure that the #1 wire is in the proper location and your spark plug wires are connected to the distributor cap in the correct order. Point the rotor to have it line up with #1 when it rotates as you reinsert it into the crankcase. I think you know the drill.

Good Luck,
Mark

NathanUK · NathanUK's Garage

Yep, you could also check the valves are shut while the crank is at the marks on the pulley too. Use the dizzy to determine which valves should be shut. Of course, there may be other valves shut too but that is normal, so long as they are shut at the marks.

rsrmike · 09-20-2008, 05:55 AM

If that car sat ten years you should have major injection work ahead of you.

I would remove the injectors and have them cleaned, tested, or atleast check their spray pattern coming from the fuel distributor.

Also check to make sure the plunger is not stuck in the fuel distributor. You can tell by pushing down on the air flow sensor plate w/ fuel pumps running. Be careful, you'll flood the motor quite easily. But it should require force to push the plate down with pumps running. And you should hear the injectors squeeling when you do. If the plate return up w/ pressure than the piston is not stuck and you may be OK in the fuel dist. area. Although later once the injectors qre deemed ok, I would do a volume test on all the injectors hooked to the dist to make sure there are no blockages in the fuel dist.

It would be wise to get a CIS fuel pressure gauge and verify system and control pressures befoe running engine hard. In case the "italian tune-up" comes to mind which is what many people think will fix cars that have been sitting up. Trouble is, this could prove dangerous in a CIS 930.

Sounds great, good luck and welcome

beepbeep · 09-20-2008, 08:09 AM

10 years stored?

Your injectors are probably gummed up and CIS plunger stuck. Check that both pums run, check injector spray pattern. Check that CIS barn-door moves freely. If it doesn't start when that's taken care of, check if distributor has jumped a tooth.

Zorked930 · 05:33 PM

Well I appreciate the responses helped me out alot especially not having any sort of manual. I finally got it going the whole time it was 180 out. Some other parts that went to look at it im sure sabotaged it. I made sure that the fuel plunger wasnt stuck and it moved freely by itself with the key on and could here the injectors spray. The engine sounds really good but it pushed alot of smoke out at first start I pushed that fuel plunger twice so that was part of it and there was some oil dripping from one of the exhaust gaskets.The valve guides were probably pretty hard and crusty from sitting but it isnt pushing much smoke at all now. I think it is running a little rich still; mostly just black smoke. Heres a vid after it starting running decent, and a picture of where oil was leaking from. It has a 120,000 miles..what do you think should be done to protect this asset from being destroyed? engine wise
View My Video

William930t · 03:09 PM

After watching the video I only see small amounts of smoke. Not bad for an engine out of operation 10 years! Get out and run the motor progressively harder with the intention of seating the rings better, smoke may stop. Also, find the source of the squeaking noise, thats not normal.

A proper leakdown and compression test will be a good indicator of engine health.

Miguel Antonett · 09-23-2008, 07:16 PM

Not bad at all. But the smoke appeared to change from dark to light (full to oil) I would run it under load easyly at first until things settle down. Good luck!

full quack · 09-23-2008, 07:18 PM

Hello there,
Have you run the engine long enough to bring it up to full temp.? The rich black smoke at idle, could just be that is still in warm-up mode. Your video seams to show that the rich mixture, black smoke clears up just off idle as your buddy was blipping the throttle. Could also be a slightly gummed up injector that is just not absolutely seating closed, thus running real rich at idle, but not so noticeable as the rpms climb. These cars do not like sitting for long periods, mine sat unattended for 3 years before I picked it up...and yes it needed some TLC & $.
Anyway, welcome to halls of financial hell...and since your journey has just started....pry tell what did you pay for your 100+k/10 year in storage find? We all want to know, I'm just the first to ask!
Mark

NathanUK · NathanUK's Garage

I'm no expert but that didn't look like oil to me. Looked rich to me. Could try some injector cleaner to loosen things up.

Zorked930 · 09-24-2008, 10:49 AM

I have got it up to full temp I drove it around the block a couple times and down to the corner store, and it doesnt seem to smoke at all anymore. The only smoke was after I drove it and oil is dripping onto the exhaust. As for the price I just picked it up off craigslist down in Seattle area for 9k. Next I will be changing the tranny oil and trying to get ahold of a leakdown tester. Any reccomendations on tranny oil.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miguel Antonett

Not bad at all. But the smoke appeared to change from dark to light (full to oil) I would run it under load easyly at first until things settle down. Good luck!

What were you saying here..too much oil?

willtel · 09-24-2008, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorked930

As for the price I just picked it up off craigslist down in Seattle area for 9k. Any reccomendations on tranny oil.

From what I have seen I would say you did well.

I think this is the standard go to trans lube but I'm a newb so I could be wrong.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait=N&make=POR&model=911M&section=BASflt&page=1&bookmark=4&part_number=SWE-201-80W90

Miguel Antonett · 09-24-2008, 06:14 PM

Your doing great, that black smoke means that is running reach, which is not bad to keep things "cool", but it appears to go away. Light/blue smoke = oil, but that one went away also = good deal. After reaching op temps measure the oil level, a little low is OK - do not overfill.
You need to check the brake system also, paying close attention to the hoses integrity.

rsrmike · 09-24-2008, 06:31 PM

$9K?? Niiiiiiice
I bet your turbo feedline could be leaking oil. It's a metal line bolted to the turbo that is fed from a rubber hose crimped just a few inches away.

They usually pour right there as they age, something about old rubber getting repeatedly cooked by turbocharger heat, imagine that.

It is also likey to be cam feed lines as well but if they are not pouring too bad ignore them for now until you make sure you're not going into the motor anytime soon. If you are you may consider the pressure fed tensioner upgrade which would require new hoses anyway.

Good deal

full quack · 09-25-2008, 08:52 AM

Sounds like you scored a deal..touch'e.
Hard to go wrong with Swepco oil for your tranny, blue or red, although the red tends to foam a bit.
Check out your CV boots, they tend to crack with age, especially after sitting for a long time. They are cheap & easy to replace.
I live in the Seattle area & watch Craigs list all the time...how in the hell did I miss that one...damn!
Mark