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Doug Siegel
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 314
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oil to front cooler
Why oh Why did Porsche design this car to use the front oil cooler only when the oil temps reach 200-215?
Is there any way to change this system, to allow the oil to flow up front sooner? Manual perhaps? Any thoughts?
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88' blk/blk 930: Haltech EFI, Twin Plug, Pauter Rods, Nascar Bearings, custom crank work, dowel pinned case, ported manifold and heads, Kokeln I/C, SC Cams, Turbonetics ball bearing 62-1, BB headers, RARLYL8 Zork, additional 993 oil filter, plx/inyourface gage, RS style coilover, Fikse FM10-17 wheels, TIAL 46mm 1 bar. (where the heck did all my money go?  )
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04-08-2009, 10:37 AM
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sudo apt-get purge 930
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 4,838
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Take out the thermostat? Not sure it's the right thing to do though.
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Mark 1979 930 Euro ***GONE AND DON'T MISS IT AT ALL*** "Worrying about depreciation on your car and keeping mileage down is like not ****ing your girlfriend so her next boyfriend finds her more appealing" --clutch-monkey |
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04-08-2009, 10:56 AM
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Automotive Monomaniac
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So, when my car is running at 180 F all the time (yesterday, actually), I am not using the front cooler?
- Mike
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2018 - Porsche 911 Carrera 7MT / 2018 - Porsche Macan 7DCT / 1993 - Cadillac Allante / 2023 - RAM TRX (on order) |
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04-08-2009, 11:11 AM
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resident samsquamch
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cooterville, Cackalacky
Posts: 6,815
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Quote:
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-jeff back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2 *SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction... "Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP  )
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04-08-2009, 11:42 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,313
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I think the thermostat is suppose to open at 180-190. If it's opening above that then there is something wrong with the thermostat (I'm going through that now). You want the motor to get up to operating temp, don't take the thermostat out.
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Harold '79 930/DP935 (sold) '68 VW 3.3 Turbo Crewcab |
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04-08-2009, 12:11 PM
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Doug Siegel
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 314
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Where is the thermostat that controls the valve?
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88' blk/blk 930: Haltech EFI, Twin Plug, Pauter Rods, Nascar Bearings, custom crank work, dowel pinned case, ported manifold and heads, Kokeln I/C, SC Cams, Turbonetics ball bearing 62-1, BB headers, RARLYL8 Zork, additional 993 oil filter, plx/inyourface gage, RS style coilover, Fikse FM10-17 wheels, TIAL 46mm 1 bar. (where the heck did all my money go? )
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04-08-2009, 12:34 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,313
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In front of the right rear tire. Two hard lines in and two out. I checked the out lines with an infrared laser pyrometer to see when the thermostat was opening.
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Harold '79 930/DP935 (sold) '68 VW 3.3 Turbo Crewcab |
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04-08-2009, 02:23 PM
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Doug Siegel
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 314
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During the winter I had my 2 front coolers cleaned. I reinstalled them and ripped out the fan. I've built 2 naca ducts where the lower valance lights were (pics coming soon) and built cases around the front and rear of the coolers. The rear has a 3" hose that exits at the back of the front wheels.
Anywhoo, I made sure my oil levels were high and waited for the car to warm up. It was well over 200 degrees before the oil level went down....(oil valve opened to let oil to the coolers). How do I open the darn valve at 180 degrees?
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88' blk/blk 930: Haltech EFI, Twin Plug, Pauter Rods, Nascar Bearings, custom crank work, dowel pinned case, ported manifold and heads, Kokeln I/C, SC Cams, Turbonetics ball bearing 62-1, BB headers, RARLYL8 Zork, additional 993 oil filter, plx/inyourface gage, RS style coilover, Fikse FM10-17 wheels, TIAL 46mm 1 bar. (where the heck did all my money go? )
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04-08-2009, 06:42 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,306
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You can buy a rebuild kit from Pelican, but taking apart the old t-stat can be tricky. I had one that refused to budge no matter what. Heat, Kroil, etc. and nada, zip, zero. Ended up buying a new one and it was defective! It didnt open at all, but I didn't notice it until a while because it was brand new and no need to check, right? Bought another one and it worked fine.
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04-08-2009, 08:12 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,313
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What A930Rocket said.
If you can get the thermostat out of the housing you can put it in a small container, fill with oil and put it on the stove to bring it up to temp and see if it opens. Use a thermometer to check the oil temp. I have a similar set up as yours on our n/a race car. I enclosed the front of both coolers with air coming in from the enlarged brake openings and the turn signal housings. The smaller opening is for the brake hoses. Just a screen on the back of the coolers. At our event a few weeks ago in 82d temps with my wife and I running back to back (40-50min. ) the temps were 180-190. This is with no engine cooler. We replaced the engine oil cooler with a filter.  
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Harold '79 930/DP935 (sold) '68 VW 3.3 Turbo Crewcab |
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04-08-2009, 09:03 PM
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Doug Siegel
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 314
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Thanks guys.
Where is the temp sender for the stock oil gauge and what color is that wire?
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88' blk/blk 930: Haltech EFI, Twin Plug, Pauter Rods, Nascar Bearings, custom crank work, dowel pinned case, ported manifold and heads, Kokeln I/C, SC Cams, Turbonetics ball bearing 62-1, BB headers, RARLYL8 Zork, additional 993 oil filter, plx/inyourface gage, RS style coilover, Fikse FM10-17 wheels, TIAL 46mm 1 bar. (where the heck did all my money go? )
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04-09-2009, 05:24 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,306
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IIRC, it's just above the right chain housing cover. You beed a wrench with three 90* bends to get it out or really small hands with six knuckles per finger. At least it seemed like that when I changed mine out.
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04-09-2009, 05:40 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Back in B'ham, AL
Posts: 3,459
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The t-stat opens around 175* and should be left there to control temps, you don't want high RPMs below that temp or above - let's say - 240*.
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04-10-2009, 08:10 AM
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: top of 3rd
Posts: 4,336
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Can anyone tell me what *C each of the "blocks" on the oil temp gauge of my '87 correlate to? Seems silly to me that Porsche did not increment them in #'s.
TIA. |
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04-10-2009, 10:11 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,306
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The 9pm position represents 212*F for calibration. I want to say there are small numbers you can see with a flashlight to the side (in C).
An easy swap is to change the gauge face and sending unit to degrees F. Pelican sells the kit. |
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04-10-2009, 08:16 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Back in B'ham, AL
Posts: 3,459
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8 o'clock mark is about 175*F, 10 o'clock is around 250*F. I know somebody out there will show a picture of the gauge with numbers.
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04-10-2009, 08:26 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Near Atlanta
Posts: 128
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I found my thermostat frozen and no amount of wrenching helped. I then noticed in the Pelican catolog that the thermo lid or screw off cover is available new, so I figured I could destroy it if I had to. I took a 4"grinder to the slot on the top and cut it until it barley cut through the metal. I then took a wide piece of metal that fit snugly into the new deeper slot and with a long lever arm, bam! off it came. Be sure and order the new top before you do this. I bought a new thermo temp insert too and changed it while I was in there. Also, as Rocket said if you don't need to take the thermo out, DON'T. Those old oil lines are very brittle and corroded and will break easily. Then you are talking some big bucks.
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911rudy |
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04-12-2009, 07:38 PM
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Doug Siegel
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 314
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When I started it up last week (1st time of the season), I let it run for a while. The temps got well over 200* before the thermostat opened. Yesterday I drove it 80 miles. The temps were between 175 and 212. When I stopped, I felt the front oil coolers and they were cold.
Several months ago I disconnected the oil coolers and noticed 2 wires connected to the front stock cooler. I'm assuming these have to do with the (now removed) fan. One wire went to something that looked like a temp sensor and the other to a little fitting about 2" to the left. I taped the ends of the wires as to keep them from touching anything. Should i have grounded them? Do these have anything to do with the thermostat?
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88' blk/blk 930: Haltech EFI, Twin Plug, Pauter Rods, Nascar Bearings, custom crank work, dowel pinned case, ported manifold and heads, Kokeln I/C, SC Cams, Turbonetics ball bearing 62-1, BB headers, RARLYL8 Zork, additional 993 oil filter, plx/inyourface gage, RS style coilover, Fikse FM10-17 wheels, TIAL 46mm 1 bar. (where the heck did all my money go? )
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04-13-2009, 11:01 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,313
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Nothing to do with the thermostat. They turned the fan on when the oil hit a certain temp. You should touch the solid oil lines going to the front coolers. Sounds like the thermostat.
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Harold '79 930/DP935 (sold) '68 VW 3.3 Turbo Crewcab |
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04-13-2009, 02:21 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,306
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gumba is right. Those wires go to the fan temp sending unit on the fan. IIRC, one went to the temp sending unit and one went to ground. What the temp sending unit does is complete the ground circuit in the fan wiring.
Why don't you re-connect them, unless your fan is on a manual switch? As suggested, feel the lines from the thermostat. If it's warm/hot near the t-stat, but gradually get cooler as you move forward, the t-stat is bad or it didn't get hot enough to open. Quote:
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04-13-2009, 06:36 PM
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