loose steering colomn / noob oil leak Q

[krasuskyp]

2 Q's for you gents:

1st

Somewhere during Dragon run #2 whereby I was ohso able to ohso ***violate*** US129 in an unceremoniously sacreligously uberawesome and Just Not Right manner (is there any other way?), I noted the odd sensation of the steering column having lateral play. Figured something came loose.

well

Was test fitting my Prototipo wheel last night (finally figured out how to remove horn button - wow that took MUSCLE, something I'm not raging in abundance with), as well as remedying my inoperable 'flash to pass feature' (gum'd contacts in switch, bet shop would have charged $$$ for new switch!). When I removed the horn pad, there was assorted greasy white nylon schrapenal lying at the bottom of the lower column plastic cover. Seemed to possibly originate from some sort of nylon 'bushing' on the very top of the shaft just past the splines and flush with its entry into the column itself.

Any BTDT / insight to shed here? Is the shrapenal my cause or coincidence and I can tighten the column elsewhere? It's not dramatic, just notable (and somewhat annoying).

2nd

I've got weepage (don't we all?) on the bottom of my motor, I'd Massenguil'd it thoroughly prior to my turboPALOOZA departure hoping to isolate any leaks. It's obvious where it's coming from, figured I'd poll you all. Def. doesn't appear to be lower valve cover edges - BUT - *just* after it, like the "head gasket" area. This common? Something that some sort of 'tigtening' might shore up? It's really just enough to weap down onto the heat exchangers (same on both sides). Good news is - no other (apparent) leaks! 8-) Knock woodrow!

Any insights / thoughts / go F yerself's appreciated - TIA!

[x98boardwell]

I would guess the leak is coming from the rocker-arm shafts. They leak out of the shaft and down behind the open part of the cam tower. if you were to take out your spark plug wire and reach in that hole on the left and right you should be able to feel the end of the rocker arm shafts and may even get some oil on your finger.

The leak you're describing looks like it is coming from where the cam tower meets the cylinder heads correct? If so, then this may the culprit. You can add some RSR seals to those shafts or try and re-tighten them as they are an expansion shaft. How many miles on the car... motor? Best of luck,

Bryan

[krasuskyp]

Thanks Brian - 45k.

It's along then entire edge of the head, just beyond the valve cover gasket edge. Like where the cylinders meet the head, hence my "head gasket" reference. As seen from laying under car.

Still rocker arm shafts then? If so, how to tighten? I'm not overly concerned as it's not 'that much', but figured if I can stem the weep why not.

Tx for the noob patience...

[Shadetree930]

You need to replace your steering wheel bushing.

A very common and easy repair.

Not unusual to see this failure exhibit itself after an overly aggressive romp on very twisty deep mountain roads combined with a little CMP track time with a bunch of P-car hooligans.

The Mitch Leland poly bushing ... it is an excellent repair option.

There is also a metal alternative sold here and elsewhere. These do the job as well.

Refer to the following post for the nitty gritty ...

Steering column sleeve

While you are in there ... rub some grease .. electro type .. on the horn contacts ... will prevent a scritching ... scratching sound down the road.

[krasuskyp]

Awesome Paul, thanks for that link and for the PM. Sounds like I just extricate the remaining innards of the former bushing, then slip fit the new one then? Nice. I'll be in touch...

[x98boardwell]

I would first take off the valve covers (top and bottom) to verify where you are leaking. There are 3 rocker arms per valve cover and 2 sides to every shaft. So, all together there could be 24 places where the oil may be coming from. They are allen bolts and will need to tightened from one side while holding the other from spinning. You can get in there by cutting off some of a allen wrench (the "L" shaped ones) so the bend is shorter... you will see what I mean. You will feel or even see oil residue in the ones that are leaking so concentrate on those. Tightening may help but you never know and this probably isn't the ideal way to fix address this problem.

Good luck, post some pics if you got em.

Bryan

[krasuskyp]

Tx for the detail Bryan - will shoot a pic, sure.

[A930Rocket]

Before you tighten them, center the shafts up side to side. You don't want to tighten them up, only to have them leak more.

Also, don't go ape on them. Too tight and you won't be able to get them back out as the head spreads out.

[krasuskyp]

Here's pics Bryan:





That help?

The weep never reaches the ground, just sits on the exchangers like that.

Thanks.

[x98boardwell]

It is either the rocker arm shafts or the oil return tubes. I would check the tubes first as that is a much easier fix.

Bryan

[9dreizig]

hey Paul, you've got the right guy giving you advice,, you can pretty much eat off Bryan's engine.
I have done the Pelican fix on the steering wheel, ,piece of cake, you just need the big assed 30mm(I think) socket .

[krasuskyp]

Thanks Bryan.

How to check the tubes, and if it is them - either tighten / remedy? Sorry for so many q's, my ignorance IS, in fact, painful.

Good to hear Todd - tho - I kinda sorta figured as much, between his & Brad's car it's pretty much what I'd expect 8-).

[A930Rocket]

I'd clean the underside of your engine to get rid of all the oil and grime. Then run it a little bit to see where the oil is coming from. If it's the tubes, you'll have to remove the old ones by yanking them out and using expanding replacements. Having never done it, I don't know if you have to remove the headers. Pelican carries them.

[x98boardwell]

I think... I think that on one side you can get (if it is them) the tubes out but the other side may need to have the headers removed for proper access.

The stock tubes are solid and installed before the cam towers are mounted onto the cylinder heads. They all come together (tubes/cylinder head) at the same time.

The collapsible ones (that Jim was referring to) are expandable and held into place (once expanded) by a cir-clip to prevent the tubes from collapsing. here are a few pics to help you out.

Bryan

PS. Yes, my brother (Brad... Turbobrat930) suffers from a minor case of OCD.

This is a bad picture but you get the idea of how the collapsible tubes look. This when I started to tear my engine apart for the rebuild.