A few discoveries with engine dropped

willtel · 08-16-2009, 06:35 PM

Yesterday I dropped my engine and transmission to have my 4-speed refreshed. About a week ago my car jumped out of first gear under load and in about 40 more miles of driving it would pop out of first as soon as you eased out the clutch. The syncros are also pretty worn and it has been shifting poorly since I bought the car.

The driveline was pretty easy to get out. It took me and a friend about 6 hours to get it removed and about another hour to get the trans separated and clutch taken apart.

We used an ATV jack with a strap around the headers and heat exchangers to lower it to to ground.

After getting the engine on the ground I noticed a few minor oil leaks from the top of the engine. It seems that one is from the oil pipe centered above the flywheel and should be easy to correct. Another leak that is a little more curious is that the CIS fuel head seems to be leaking around the lower seam connecting the two halves. Has anyone tried to replace this gasket or do I have bigger issues? Also any tips on what to do while I have the engine out?

LOWFAT · 08-17-2009, 11:41 AM

Are you talking about the gasket between the upper intake ( the part with the air flapper valve ) and the bowl shaped intake? If so just remove all of the allen head bolts and seperate. Remove the fuel lines from the fuel head first. It may take a little force as the gasket glue may form a good bond. You will need a good set of 3m type gasket remover discs for a right angle grinder to remove the old gasket . That stuff can put up quite a fight to come off!!!

JFairman · 08-17-2009, 11:56 AM

From that blurry pic it looks like the short piece of hose that connects the aluminum breather pipe to the breather cover is dry rotted, probably hard as a rock, and seeping oil. They all do that after 20+ years.

Also your long ignored throttle linkage mini balljoints, bellcrank, and return spring really need some oil...

Can't see any brownish staining on the fuel head from fuel sweating or leaking from it anywhere in this pic.

pkracer21j · 08-17-2009, 01:34 PM

"any tips on what to do while the engine is out?" that my friend, is a loaded question on this forum. Many complete rebuilds and very fast 930's have come out of that very question. I'm on my 2nd time around and we're rebuilding her faster better and stronger!

seriously if your leakdown numbers are good I would just consider fixing minor oil leaks and making sure everything is in spec and functioning properly.

Alan L · Alan L's Garage

Are you sure your fuel head is leaking? I cant see any staining either.
I have pulled mine apart. Several times. But would not recommend it.
They are supposed to be hard to seal again. Mine was OK, but I would be reluctant to do it again - certainly not for minor staining (which I can't even see). Wipe it over and leave alone for another 50k.
Alan

A930Rocket · 08-17-2009, 06:58 PM

I had the same problem with my crankcase vent tube. It was actually loose from the swedged part. I JB Welded it back in place and all has been good for years. Make sure you set it up right to get the right orientation if you do it.

You might be getting oil fumes from that on your metering plate that makes you think it's leaking?

willtel · 08-18-2009, 07:25 AM

Thanks for the help guys and sorry about the blurry pic. For the CIS portion of my questions was referring to the area circled in green. I may have mistakenly called it a fuel head.

Now that I look at it I wonder if it is actually leaking (isn't this area of the intake stream just air?) or just covered from grime from the crankcase 'breathing' all over it. I think that broken breather hose is the reason my engine bay was so grimy near the shock mounts. It also may account for the exhaust\oil smell in the cabin when the heat was on.

kellcats521 · 08-18-2009, 07:50 AM

I have the gasket you might need here if you want it. Also, I have most of the tools if you're diving in - I'm in East Cobb, probably not too far away....

gsmith660 · 08-18-2009, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willtel

Thanks for the help guys and sorry about the blurry pic. For the CIS portion of my questions was referring to the area circled in green. I may have mistakenly called it a fuel head.

Now that I look at it I wonder if it is actually leaking (isn't this area of the intake stream just air?) or just covered from grime from the crankcase 'breathing' all over it. I think that broken breather hose is the reason my engine bay was so grimy near the shock mounts. It also may account for the exhaust\oil smell in the cabin when the heat was on.

That side is metered air so if the gasket is leaking you are introducing unmetered air into the system

willtel · 08-31-2009, 06:43 AM

I'm still plugging away on my transmission project (slippery slope) and have everything pretty much disassembled. I decided to go ahead and pull the intake manifold and I'm glad I did, the vacuum lines on my car are completely shot.

This line was for the vacuum advance on the distributor.

Another line that ran under the intake just crumbled when I tried to flex it.

This crankcase vent line failed and was the cause of a slow but messy oil leak. I also think this was the cause of a fuel\oil smell in the car after driving under full boost with the windows up. I'm hoping to take the pipe to a hydraulic hose shop and have them clamp a new section of rubber hose to it. The part new is $122.

Ready for cleaning.

This is as far as I'm planning to go at this time. The transmission is waiting on one more gasket and the rebuild will be complete, all synchos and dog gears were replaced. I'm replacing the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel while it is apart. From what I can tell clutch disk was last replaced in '96. I'm upgrading to a stage 1 pressure plate from Kennedy along with their spring centered organic clutch disk. The flywheel will be stock. I'm also replacing all the motor and transmission mounts with WEVO semi-solid mounts with the black bushings. I'm hoping to sharpen up the shifting a little and minimize the porpoising effect when transitioning on and off the throttle. We shall see if it helps. I'm also putting on a stainless steel engine mount from Rennline, my mount was somehow mangled when I removed the engine (or maybe before?) so instead of welding the old part and refinishing it I just bought a new one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kellcats521

I have the gasket you might need here if you want it. Also, I have most of the tools if you're diving in - I'm in East Cobb, probably not too far away....

Thanks for the offer! I priced that gasket and it is only $10.00 so I think I'm just going to lump it in with my other parts order. If I have trouble getting my hands on one I will let you know. My car is also in East Cobb at a friends house, I would gladly accept any expertise you have on getting my overboost system plumbed and wired correctly. It is in sad shape now and I want to get it sorted before I put the motor back in.

Les Paul · Les Paul's Garage

Wevo shifter and u-joint if you're looking for better shifting.

willtel · 08-31-2009, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Les Paul

Wevo shifter and u-joint if you're looking for better shifting.

I have the u-joint and I'm planning on adding the shifter a little later. Right now I need to minimize the invoice shock with the wife.

JFairman · 08-31-2009, 07:20 AM

Regarding that 2" long dried out piece of breather hose...

Mine was the same way so I cut a piece of an old radiator hose from a BMW that is the same inside diameter I had laying around and put it on with 2 hoseclamps.

There's no pressure there, only crankcase blowby fumes making their way to the breather/oil seperator tank (if the car has one) and then the oil tank.

Works fine and it's alot cheaper than taking it to a hose place and having a 2" piece of hose crimped on.

Alan L · Alan L's Garage

When you put your intake manifold/gaskest on, be careful how you orientate them. They may look OK on the intake port - but see the mirror image of how they line up on the manifold. There is a wrong way where they barely seal in a place.
Alan

willtel · 08-31-2009, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFairman

Mine was the same way so I cut a piece of an old radiator hose from a BMW that is the same inside diameter I had laying around and put it on with 2 hoseclamps.

I was thinking the same thing as I was typing out what I had planned, the price on that vent line is actuality $277. That will buy a lot of hose clamps!

Does anyone have a good source for the woven shielded vacuum lines? They look good when they are clean.

JFairman · 08-31-2009, 11:34 AM

Pelican has the origonal type vacuum hoses in different diameters in 3-4 foot lengths. They dryrot eventually so the newer type colored silicone vacuum lines are better.. they don't dryrot.

zoomie · 08-31-2009, 12:43 PM

I got mine at Marietta Foreign Auto, 770-422-4043. I took an old piece in and they had plenty of new in stock.
My advice would be to test your WG while it's easy. Mine was bad, it killed my engine, long sad story.
I rebuilt my engine and trans, if you need any help, let me know. I live north of Atlanta off of 400.

willtel · 09-06-2009, 04:54 PM

I've been cleaning as I wait for parts. My clutch and pressure plate should be here soon and my WEVO engine mounts were stolen from Fed-Ex so those had to be shipped again.

Transmission is rebuilt and ready to go back in.