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trevs911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Conroe TX. Willis
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Car lift delima

Can anyone tell me? I just got a lift from Max Jax USA for my garage.My problem is
I need 4-6 in thick flooring.I was drilling into the floor to anchor one of the post and
found I only have 2-2 1/2 thick flooring. I've opened the floor 3Ft Sq can any one tell
me, if i need to go bigger and how deep i need to go to support that stand.Max height for car lift is 4 ft. total lift wt is 6,000 lb so about 3,000 aside to lift.
Talked to lift com. person said 3ft sq by 12ft deep that just doesn't seam like it will
support the wt. or angle. maybe wt. not angle. HELP
Old 11-14-2009, 05:49 PM
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What kind of lift is it? Two post?

A 3'x3'x12'' pad should work as sugested, but it might be tough with only 2 1/2'' to drill into. You may want to go deeper to be sure.

How deep are the garage footers?
Old 11-14-2009, 06:27 PM
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I don't know if the garage has any footers.I was thinking about cutting the slab 4'x8'or10' and
going down 10 or12" deep putting the two post on that ,maybe overkill, but I don't think the anchor bolts will pull out.
It's a two post lift to see it go to MaxJaxusa.com
Old 11-14-2009, 09:09 PM
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Each post wants a 3' x 3' x 1/2" mild steel plate,,, no digging.
Old 11-14-2009, 09:14 PM
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FIRST make sure you don't have a post tension concrete slab before cutting into it - shouldn't be, but most of the current slabs we build out here are, look for a stamp in the concrete warning not to drill or cut...

the mfg requirements are ususally over engineered, but I would be more comfortable with a slab closer to the 4" min. rather than 2.5". Going with a 3'x3'x12" shoud be sufficient but as suggested be sure to tie into slab, find a struct engineer friend and ask about the plate suggested by wishbone (definatley an easier route just need to spread load). Be sure to use a quality epoxy for the bolts, we use simpson and it's avial at Home Depot or Lowes.
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:00 PM
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I'm a Structural Engineer, so let me shed some light on this.

Small pads or even a good 4" slab is fine for a 4 post lift, when you go with a 2 post it's a whole new ballgame. If the center-of-gravity (CG) of the load is not directly over the lift posts you create an imbalance condition we Engineers call Overturning Moment (OM) due to eccentricity. In other words, the lift falls over. We keep this from falling over by the strength of the anchor bolts, the mass of the slab and the soil below the slab. The slab has to be deep enough to fully develop the strength of the anchor bolts, also the slab has to be heavy enough to counter act the OM, and the slab has to reinforced sufficiently so it doesn't break in half in the process. Think of a kids basket ball goal with water filled base to keep it from falling over.

That said, in most retail oil changing centers that use 2 post lifts you'll find something like a 6' x 10' pad, 9"-12" thick with #4 bars (1/2" dia) at 12" on center each way set in the center of the slab depth. Center the pad on the posts with the 10' dimension parallel to a line drawn through the posts. Use isolation material between the pad and the remaining slab to allow the new pad to move a little without effecting the old slab as you load and unload the lift.

And this is really depends upon the soil conditions in your area. Here in Colorado my house is on piers and grade beams, and the expansive clay soil can barely support the plain slab.

My 2 cents.
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:16 AM
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Ha, I figured with enough of us giving you dumb advice that someone in the know would chime in.

I say do it right, do it once...
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Old 11-16-2009, 08:49 PM
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also, I know there is different "PSI" rated concretes out there...

I can't remember the specs, but, I would look at that, too...
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooney265 View Post
also, I know there is different "PSI" rated concretes out there...

I can't remember the specs, but, I would look at that, too...
Typical 3000-3500 psi concrete will be fine.
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:27 AM
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