possible bad spark plugs?

what should the gap be? i went by what was in the manual, but i am not sure that is correct with aftermarket plugs

ok, i just read one of the tech articles on there about spark plugs,..it said NOT to use anti seize in fear of the plug backing out a bit or not getting a good groud

,.. i have always been told TO USE a little anti seize and i did when putting in the new spark plugs,..anyone think these has something to do with it?

It is possible, but I doubt it. It is also possible you have a cracked plug insulator...or other short to ground...

I never use anti-seize on the plugs. Might want to pull and clean them (and the heads some how).

You can try to back track with your other old parts as well. Try your old cap, rotor, plugs, etc. one at a time to see if it makes a difference.

ok, back tracked a bit, and maybe found something,..not sure,..

replaced rotor and cap, and put the old one back on,..SAME!

so i put the new cap and rotor back on...

decided to pull the intercooler again today and pull all the plugs

cyl 1 - clean as a whistle, doesnt look like it fired
cyl 2 - clean as a whistle, doesnt look like it fired
both stink like fuel
cyl 3 - some black carbon
cyl 4 - some black carbon
cyl 5 - some black carbon
cyl 6 - some black carbon

does this mean, cyl 1-2 are NOT firing? and 3-4-5-6 are?
OR
does this mean, cyl 3-4-5-6 are NOT firing? and 1-2 are?

all spark plugs stink like fuel!, i did clean all the threads off and tips, then reinstall

would this be a coil problem? i have the red light on in the oil pressure gauge (alternator light, when the car is running)

idle is at about 500-600 and oil pressure is good 2k-3k on start up

Sounds like 1&2 not firing. Is it possible you crossed these two wires?

Crossed or maybe broken plug insulators?

i just borrowed a plug tester thingy from a friend, pretty cool little tool, i am going to test the plugs on another car with this tomorrow...

is it safe to rule out a coil? why would alternator light be coming on? from engine running so weak?

Jim,

You need to start over by pulling the cap with wires, pull the rotor off :

NOW:
1. Turn the crank clockwise to #1 TDC on the compression stroke put the rotor back in place. Is the rotor pointing to #1? it should be just before #1 or nearly on #1.

2. Check the rotor for correct part number if it's new. If you used the old rotor clean all the copper and check it for continuity tip to tip. ( if it' is a rev limiting rotor it could have opend up or partially opened up). Look for cracked or burned spots If all checks out make sure it's seating properly and it points to #1.

3. Check the cap for correct part number if it's new. If you used the old cap clean all the copper and check it for continuity tip to plug socket. Look for cracked or burned spots.

4. Check each plug wire and the coil wire for continuity end to end.
Plug the wires into the cap and make sure they are seated completely. Do the same for the coil. Check continuity between the inner cap contact and the plug wire socket, do the same for the coil wire.

5. Pull and clean all the plugs, tighten the screw on caps and install the plugs on to the wires making sure each is seated completely. With the rotor and cap reinstalled ground the plugs one at a time ground the plugs one at a time and check them for a strong spark.
A little WD40 on the plug porcelin will help seat the plugs in the boots.

If everything thing checks out individually and accumlative THEN AND ONLY THEN PROCEED TO FUEL.

If stll no spark on all 6 check the distributer green signal wire and the engine harness to CDI connections. If no go swap out the CDI and or the coil.

Don't mean to get so fundamental but I have been in fire fights and, beleive me, you will shoot at anything and everything.

Cole

ok, checked cap and rotor this morning for part numbers with the original,..they are the same

i checked plug wires, each one seperatly with extra grounded plug in each end,..all have great spark

i guess the next step is to pull each plug and check those

Jim,

Did you bring the #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke and then see where the rotor was pointing ? Did you check plug gap?

I don't mean to keep harping on this but your initial issue really sounds like timing. You did say the car ran fine before you changed things out.

Cole

no not yet, that is tomorrow mornings project, just a stupid quick question

is the firing order clock wise or counter clock wise?

I expect yours should be counterclockwise...normally there is a sticker that will show this. I sent you a PM with my phone number. Give me a call if you want to chat...I'm around at the moment.

Jim,

Definatly counter clockwise !!!!!!!!!

SORRY !!!!! my bad !!!!! I posted a SC firing order diagram. Thanks Jacob at first I thought you were talking about one of the photographs.

Cole

and the #1 spark plug wire is about 4 or 5 o clock on the distributor cap when looking at it in car.

ok, that is the order i have, can i move the #1 wire over one,..right now it is to the right of the clip...

this is how i have it right now
http://www.kuunzee.com/porsche/dizzy1.jpg

should i try this way
http://www.kuunzee.com/porsche/dizzy2.jpg

that is not my car by the way, just using the picture

no, that is not how you do it.

remove the dist cap and there is a notch in the aluminum distributor casting right under where the cap mounts.
the rotor should be pointing at that notch when the #1 cylinder is TDC.

then put the cap on and see which plug wire is above that notch.

on a late 80's 930 that is timed stock, that is usallyaround 4 to 5 o clock.

I just did a 930 yesterday, and #1 is as you have shown in your second photo, looks like you missed each wire by one pole. Move them all one spot counterclockwise, and I bet it fires.
#1 was one pole counterclockwise of the cap holddown on the one I just did.
Good luck!

Maybe it's the way the dizzy was dropped in. My #1 is where Jim has it in the first picture.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1286672254.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1286672270.jpg