My '79 has the same thing...maybe they came like that from the factory in those years?

If you're not ready to spring for new headers/muffler, I have a full euro exhaust system sitting in my garage that is not likely going to be needed by me. An easy 40hp for you!

I keep telling myself I should hang on to it in case I ever decide to make the car stock again, but the likelihood of that ever happening is close to zero so I should probably just offer it to someone that might actually use it. Pricing would be reasonable.

But my understanding is you need to install it again when done or your car will not pass CA smog. i had to hunt one down for my car.

Richard...you have a PM.

Alright...pretty much seals my fate. Not one vote to keep the TRs. Let me say up front I'm blown away by the support from this board and Rennlist. What a cool community.

I'm going to talk wth Richard about the Euro option.

My other thought is just putting the TR delete 'headers' on as I understand they could be in the $200 neighborhood. That would give me a smog option when I purchase headers. I would love to go the header route from Brian right now but I have to dig around for a couple of grand and that might take some time. Even with the header route I need an option to pass smog every few years...and I would rather not do it with the TRs. So I'm gonna need something to use for smog.

If I'm rambling about all of this its because I'm trying to digest a lot of information and make a good decision.

Mr. Rocket.....thank you for all your input both here and Rennlist...and for pointing out the air injector. RobS on Rennlist said the same thing and votes for pulling the TR's as well.

I pulled one of my new telescoping return tubes and no way it's fitting in there with the air injection in place. The one piece is just too long...unless there is a trick. Or perhaps different models and the one I have won't fit?

Johnny Dangerously....you started this whole fargin' mess :D with your 'it would seem to me....' Then came the pile on. I woke up to find out I have to do what everyone has been telling me not to do :eek:

BTW....chain tensioner update was done to the car before the Original owner took possession. At least the paper work I was given says so...I've never looked.

KRas....Nice!

JFair....not sure which picture you are referring to regarding the S connector. Not entirely sure either whether you are saying I should work towards an org with my wife or you were referring to a word that rhymes with spasm.

Richard...I PM'd you but I'm still looking at all my options to see what makes the most sense....very much appreciate you chiming in here.

DG Dub.....I think I'm just going to drop it out of the way for this but leave it on. Will definitely keep it for future if for some reason I pull it.

Wow....looks like I need to get a MAPP torch now and the guts to go for it. I'm going to go ahead and pull the other HE and drop the air injector next to see where that puts me.

Thanks to everyone for your support. Probably can't get to the TR removal until Sunday as I have to work on Sat. I'm going to start daily shootings with PB Blaster on the nuts just to show it who's boss.

Here's a picture for everyone....came with the car. I know how you guys like pics in your threads!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295543875.jpg

Pretty impressive, hats off to you working on your car. I am no mechanic, but have worked on my cars and motorcycles forever. This is my first Porsche which is a California 930 also. So mine has all the smog equipment also.

Here are some pictures of the pipes to replace the thermo reactors. I call them W pipes, there are other names for them. The type installed have a tendency to crack everywhere. If buying used, expect to have them repaired, not a cheap fix. You can still buy these new. The second set (uninstalled) are a different and stronger design, pretty hard to crack.

Put alot of PB blaster on the air injecting tubing.

I love the 12 mpg, mine gets 12 minutes per gallon when up on jack stands.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295544868.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295544922.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295544964.jpg

Good for you to do your own work on your 930! That's pretty brave for a newbie. As for performing valve adjustment don't rotate the engine CCW. Back side valve adjustment is a great method. Don't forget to check the head studs to make sure none are broken or loose.

As for the oil drain containers...I suggest to cut open the top to the size of soda can. Then there won't be any over spill except for some splatter.

Thermal reactor delete headers....
 

Mine were badly cracked when i removed them...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295547990.jpg

jwasbury, do yours have the slots near the exhaust studs? That one crack looks allot better than the 15 I had on the installed set. Just seems like a stronger design.These pipes glow red without much effort, cracks are inevitable.
The important thing is get a set without cracks.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295550175.jpg

Good thoughts Mikey D.

DHG...the middle W pipe you mention above...which are more sturdy....where did you get them? Looks like our host has a set but they are $600. I dont' mind paying for better quality but that's a nice chunk toward a set of headers. I have to save for the headers at this time so I'm looking for an inexpensive stop/gap to replace the TR's. Could also be used for future smog checks. They don't need to be perfect but like you mention, fixing up cracked ones might not make sense.

I have an old set of Powerhaus headers with heat I would sell cheap. They have a few cracks that need some attention but I guarantee you will like them better than your stock exhaust.

I recently went through an "exhaust upgrade" on my 79. I had all of the same junk you had but my exhaust was in much worse shape.

Is it an option for you to just put everything back when you're done? Then you can enjoy the car while you plan the next step.

I went with heat exchangers from a later model and everything is much simpler now. More power, less heat and great access. They're very well made.

Given you dont *need* to swap everything right now you might want to save up and get Brian's beautiful artwork when you're ready.

Aaah...the voice of reason shows up. Yes Zakthor it is a viable option. Brian's headers are the long term goal for me so I would prefer to ultimately work toward that goal.

Headers will put me in a bind with smog so I will have to go through the headache of a swapout every couple of years. I can live with that.

The real question is do I keep the TR's I have now or should I go ahead and switch to set of the HR delete pipes shown above. I do not like the idea of used pipes based on their tendency to crack.

Willtel....thank you for your offer but think I'm going to hold out for Brian's headers.

Think its boiling down to $600 value to quickly get rid of the HRs. Seems like the potential heat damage from the HRs might be reason enough to do this intermediary step. This would allow me to take my time in getting the headers and know that I put a better solution in place than the HRs.

Other options are out there with the later model euro headers/exhaust but seems like I need to move oil lines and such which sounds extreme for an intermediary step.

Summary of my decision:

1. Stay with stock HRs (eventual upgrade to Brian's headers)
2. HR Delete Pipes (eventual upgrade to Brian's headers)

I'll mull this over...I can't even attempt to remove the HRs until Sunday anyway. Pelican is up the street from me so assuming they are in stock I can get the HR delete pipes pretty quick.

I love it! Just changed 4 of them (see the SSI, oil tube replacement post). Didn't have the turbo stuff but this will be interesting. Check with RarlyL8 (Brian) for some hot headers for that pumper.

I have a set of those replacement headers. you can have them for the price of shipping

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295565852.jpg

$600 seems like a lot for a temporary hack on top of that original hack exhaust... Good money after bad.

Look further into the time and cost to go with Richard930's set of euro exhaust bits. Only problem I see with that route is that once you have it you'll have a difficult time justifying Brian's headers. Don't forget you still need to save up for the "polybronze suspension extravaganza".

I wish I'd had the balls to do the exhaust work myself. Then again the system was in far worse shape, lots of broken studs...

Wow....thanks for that offer! Was ready to jump on it but I notice that the connection to the heat exchangers is triangular while my heat exchangers are square. Thought I had my solution :(

Just read your thread JB.....10 hours with stud drill outs?! I'm trying to get done by Spring.

Good eye on the differences in the flanges.
I picked mine up used with a elusive 77 exhaust system. Definitely the unistalled example is sturdier. I would not worry to much if buying used, or if someone gives them to you. They should hold up OK, if good to start with.

With your luck you will have one soon if you go that route . TooK me 6 months to find a dash. Still looKing for a intensive pump.

I thought i saw similar new W pipes in the $300 range somewhere when i was debating whether to fix mine or buy new.

How many miles again? Your car is in pristine shape and a unmolested example. I would keep it stock. Better for resale if that day ever comes and you will not recoup much of the cost. End up parting it out.