Visited Autozone today and asked about tool mentioned verbatim to the counter people. They showed me a similar tool but it was too large and designed for the size of an exhaust outlet. They didn't seem to know about any other tools.

Also visited 2 muffler shops who didn't/couldn't want to do the work and a machine shop who quoted $100 per side. I'm sure I could eventually find the right shop and price to do the work but may take some time. So, I'm going to try and find another pair. I've PM'd Sam who offered a set earlier in this thread.

Is this the tool they showed you
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297115106.jpg

Did you ever get it fixed?

.
 

What size do you need I thought you had fixed already?

I took the scenic route. How to fix your Porsche leaks Freiburg style in just under 10 months. I left this at the point of removing Thermal Reactors and trying to decide on the right replacement part. Original goal was to fix oil leaks in the oil return tubes and replace valve cover gaskets. Oil change comes along for the ride.

Synopsis of absence:
Chose TR Deletes over headers or euro exhaust for now. Decided to buy new TR Deletes.
Waited 2 months to make decision. Waited 2+ more months to get parts.
Life and training for a 50 mile endurance run took away all weekends through Nov.
2 Weekends ago I renewed my desire to get this car on the road again.

So, I made the Freiburg project high priority again. Made me sick to know I started the project and left it for this long. I cleaned up the work area and spent some quality time with the car over a few nights reaquainting myself with where I left off. I test fitted the new TR deletes and they fit perfect. Prepped parts and got to work putting the TR deletes on the car. No real issues. Much easier to work on these vs TR's. Access to the necessary nuts is far better.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323929871.jpg



Reattached heat exhangers and Zork. Filled oil. Triple checked I was ready to start car but decided to wait till morning. In morning consulted with another pelicanite and decided to prime the oil system before starting for first time after the long sit. Found the 2 fuel pump relays and pulled them out. With a bit of a wince I attempted to turn over the car 4-5 times for about 6-7 seconds which allowed oil pressure to build and hopefully send oil where oil was needed.

Put fuel pump relays back and started car on first try. Whew. Took car for a spin but not happy with resonance of Zork through a range of RPM's. Next weekend I pulled the passenger side heat exchanger off to reinstall. Tightened all nuts everywhere I had worked. Still no change in the resonance.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323929860.jpg


Removed Zork and reinstalled original muffler system to quiet the car down to find source of resonance. Resonance is barely noticeable now but I still think maybe something is loose or not right. Not sure if new sound is because of removal of TR's. I'll keep thinking about this one.

Planning on ordering a Hooligan muffler from Rarlyl8 this week. I like a bit more sound than stock so it is noticeable but the Zork is a bit over the top here in Orange County. Plus, with the car being stock its just too much hey everyone look at me and how fast I am. You need something like the sledgehammer or a track car. That being said it is fun. If anyone is looking I'd be willing to part with the Zork for $175 if anyone is interested. Think I paid $250 from Brian and used it under 15 miles.

Pics are attached as I know how this works :)




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323929824.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323929844.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323929860.jpg

Brian, Glad to see you are back on the road. That may very well be the most beautiful 930 I have ever seen! What's your next project? -John

Missed your reply John! I have a laundry list of items I just made this past weekend. Letting a car sit for years is really a bad idea. No real show stoppers but a number of annoyances, noises, squeaking, etc.

I do have one issue since I put the car back together I would like to get some feedback on. From 2800-3200 there is a noticeable buzz in the exhaust. First I had put a Zork on the car rather than the original muffler. I thought maybe it was the Zork. When i put the muffler on the car the sound is well, muffled, but still there.

For the long term I just purchased and installed Brian's Rarlyl8 Hooligan muffler this past weekend (separate thread to follow shortly with pics). The buzz is back again much louder now. The sound happens mostly under load but is noticeable when just parked and revving the engine. I really thought I had installed something wrong or something was loose. I tightened everything and no longer believe it is just something loose.

Based on my limited mechanical troubleshooting skills I believe the sound is in the exhaust or otherwise it wouldn't change based on me changing the muffler system. I can hear the sound coming from the exhaust when my wife was revving it for me in the driveway.

I have noticed a rattle inside the passenger side heat exchanger which I can make happen when the car is just sitting there. I pulled both heat exchangers off to compare and the driver side doesn't exhibit this rattle. When installed the heat exchanger is tight but there is movement which cannot be fixed by tightening the bolts to the TR delete pipes and/or heat duct system.

It almost seems like a weld came loose and now the piping inside the heat exchanger is moving a slight bit. But, I cannot see any loose welds. Has anyone run into this before? Is it as simple as asking my local repair shop to weld it for me? I've been hesitant to take it to them as I really wanted to complete this project without assistance but I'm not doing any welding and I don't know if a weld is the fix. I just don't see how one would even get into the HE so I would assume the weld would happen where the exhaust pipe enters/exits the HE.

Feel free to shoot holes in my diagnosis.'

Thanks!
Brian

List of stuff needing attention after 6+ years of sitting in the garage under a cover (and after I attended to some of the oil leaks):

1 or 2 oil lines in the passenger wheel well are still leaking though not too bad
Speedo doesn't register until 20+ mph and then 'jumps' up to proper reading
ODO stopped working
One of the belts or fan/ac pulley makes noise. Belts look good. Believe its AC pulley.
Squeaking in the dash somewhere. Hooligan should fix that :)
Brakes need attention. They work but think they should work better.
Idle is a bit high. Around 1100-1200. Think it should be closer to 900?
Parking brake light stays on.

Looks like you're down to the little stuff and got all the hard work out of the way. I've got a squeaky belt and busted speedo too, and some general cleanup that I need to address soon so we may be doing that at the same time. Brakes are pretty easy too, just need to take your time and don't cut any corners. I forget if this is on our cars or im making this up, but the pbrake light may have come on to let you know the pads are low. Someone else will need to confirm. Otherwise should be easy to trace.

As far as the heat exch, iirc my early he's are two halves stamped together - one has a molded lip that wraps around the other and is pinched, so no welds, you may just need to tap on it with a rubber mallet or something till you find the area that vibrates, then "massage" the area with a screwdriver or pliers till the vibration is gone... Be sure the pipes are good inside though, mine had a leak that when I let off the gas at full boost some exhaust fumes went into the cabin, never figured out why/how, but I took off the he for a short pipe and all is well except for the boost creep I now get...

Anyway, I'm around the house this weekend, so open to question or even a bs session.

Thanks Pat! I'll ping you this weekend for a BS session. Will PM you with contact info.

I agree that Minerva Blue 930s are the most beautiful;)

http://asbury.smugmug.com/By-Land/My...45_mvyvF-M.jpg

Nice work on getting yours back on the road. Curious about the buzzing you describe...does your car still have the air injection and EGR plumbing? Both of those pass through the tin on their way up into the engine compartment and may have been disturbed during your work so that they are touching metal to metal now. Just a thought.

Cousins :)

Out of curiosity what vin do you have Jwas? I was following the interesting thread on Rennlist today regarding the 'last 50' 930's. VIN's 1151-1200. I have docs showing my car entering the USA from Vancouver on 12.27.79 but my vin date is 10/79 car 1012. One thing they mentioned is the later cars had a 85 mph speedo, the smaller headlamp washers and adjustable headlamp covers (mine are the sugar scoops). I have all those things but not in the last 50 per my VIN. Is it possible to hijack my own thread ;)

I wouldn't put it past me to have disturbed the air injection and/or egr plumbing as both are still in effect. I will have another look tonight to be sure. Local repair shop owner (who is doing suspension work on my wifes '91 C2 Targa right now) said I could bring it by tomorrow. He was not surprised and had seen it before when I described it to him. Of course my diagnosis might be way off so we'll have to see.

Sucks being this close to done but having your car sounds like a Honda with a coke can muffler on it from 2800-3200 which also happens to be a heavily used portion of your RPM's when cruising around town.

Its your thread, so you can hijack it whenever you want.

My '79 VIN ends in 0260, so its an early '79 I guess. I might be making this up, but I swear the sticker on the door jamb has a "born on" month and year and mine was built in late '78. Don't quote me on that...have to check.

Google helps prove that I did not imagine it...VIN sticker does have "born on" date:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325808183.jpg

That's not my sticker, but if memory serves my car was born in November or December of 1978, but is a '79 Model Year

Yes, it is on the door sill sticker. Car is at Autowerkes across from my office this morning. They are having a look at it for me. If they sort it out I know what I'm doing this weekend :)

That wasn't it. Welded up nice and tight now. Still noticeable 'tinny' note from 2800-3200. Maybe that's just the way it is? I took some video and I'll post later. Back to the drawing board.

Hey guys. Here is a video of the exhaust sound. Mostly sounds good but you will here a definite change in tone at one point. I'm starting to think it is the combination of pipes I have and not really a specific issue. The tinny resonance is from 2800-3200. I have TR deletes to the HE to RarlyL8 Hooligan. Had my shop put the car on a lift yesterday and weld the HE which was vibrating but issue did not go away.

Sound extremely noticeable with Zork. Barely noticeable with OEM muffler. Very noticeable with Hooligan. I don't think it is anything loose and the shop couldn't find anything either. I may need to swap out to a euro setup up to the muffler to fix the noise. Sure gets expensive to troubleshoot :) Good thing I got a new money tree for Christmas.

930 Hooligan Test - YouTube

Porsche 930 - RarlyL8 exhaust & K27 turbocharger upgrade - YouTube

Here is my 79 for comparison. Listen with headphones for most accurate sound.

My car has a really raspy note that sounds nothing like the later cars. I've never really understood why...dearly departed brother Paul K noted this too. His 930 was an '87 with a RarlyL8 dual exit muffler and stock heat exchangers. My car had the raspy quality with the stock USA 79 exhaust, and still has it with the SSI exchangers and Y pipe. Perhaps its due to long tube exchangers coupled with Y pipe...I suppose the later J pipe exchangers may produce a different note.

Does yours sound at all like mine?

Thats my sticker