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twin plugging question
when i pull the trigger on efi soon i have a question about twin plugging the motor i was planning on getting the lower valve covers drilled or finding a set already done. Should i just get a set of 964 lower valve covers will they work? or do they leak or something like that.
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Get your exiting lower covers machined, while you are having the heads done..
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yeah well a set of 964 valve covers costs about the same as getting the other machined and I already have a spare set of heads any way was planning on getting a spare set of valve covers also to minimize down time. so will they fit? what i was planning on doing was stocking up on all the parts as i could afford them. getting all the custom machine work done in advance so when i drop the motor I just check every thing and replace the stuff I already know will need work. Any unanticipated / unexpected things that show up will have to be solved then but it will be apart a few weeks not several months.
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I don't believe the 964 ones fit properly. Best to machine your existing ones.
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I just drilled out the 6mm stud holes to 8mm. I really like the o-ring style gasket.
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so the holes are different sizes? or are the studs different?
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I think the valve cover stud alignment is different on the 964 cover versus the 930. There is a picture of both covers in Bruce Anderson's latest Porsche 911 Performance Handbook 3rd Edition on page 105. |
i only have the second addition one
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yeah the holes look like they are in the same place as well they should be since the 930 and 964 cam towers are identical. so the holes are just smaller then?
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Still inconclusive. The 964 photos above show the intake covers, while the 930 turbo covers are for the exhaust side.
I seem to recall the 964 cam towers are different than more common "901" cam towers. Contact Steve Weiner at Rennsport. He would know right away. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300653050.jpg |
i am pretty sure the casting numbers on mine start with 964 not 901
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You're right 930 instead of 901. Early cam towers to '77 were 901's.
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I,m using 964 covers on 3.3 cam housings just need to make the stud holes larger. I,m also using the latest VW coil on plug and they fit realy well.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300660128.jpg
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[QUOTE=turbo nut;5913234]I,m using 964 covers on 3.3 cam housings just need to make the stud holes larger. I,m also using the latest VW coil on plug and they fit realy well. Ok cool then thats what i'll do for my twin plug set up
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2001 1.8T. I think the latest are rev. D . I bought 14 of them through the dealer with a discount they well under $20. They have a rubber piece that fits tight like the 964 wires. I don't use a hold down.
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Should also note plugs with a 5/8 wrench size need to be used.
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Nice!!been wondering about this setup instead of two 6 plug coil packs
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Thanks turbo nut. Any more details on your motor (maybe there's another thread?) Looks interesting!
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The coils are a little tight to get out against the body of the car. With a few minor automotive terms spoken they come out. It's a 3.4 with twin t3-t4 BB,3.2 manifold,modified 993 heat exchangers, J&S knock control and Megasquirt 3.
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A quick picture. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300825660.jpg
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what type of crank trigger did you use? and injectors?
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GSF 36-1 Pulley and sensor holder with ford sensor. It's worked good for me. Others make them also. I'm also using 540cc injectors which are borderline on being to small for my application. There right at 100% duty cycle using the stock 3.2 Carrera pressure regulator. If I were to get a adjustable regulator and bump up the pressure a little I think they will be ok.
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I might also add that the cheapest way I could get the wire connectors for the coils was to buy three ignition repair harnesses from VW for 2001 1.8T jetta. When I get to the shop I could get the VW part number if someone needs it.
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i would appreciate that thanks!! oh and if you want to increase the fuel pressure on the stock carrera regulator there is an old link in the 911 forum on that. Has you squeeze it in a vice to increase the pressure setting. I did that when i had my row carrera and had a steve wong chip in it. It worked really well.
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The coil part # is 06A 905 115 D . I think I paid $12 or $14 a coil. I'll get the harness part# if I goto the shop tonight after work.
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Are those coils CDI? What are you using to drive them?
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They are a standard coil with built in igniter. 5V will trigger them. I am using a J&S Interceptor knock controller with MSIII. logic level output from MSIII does not have enough current to run four coils at once in wasted spark by itself. But since I using the J&S its ok. I'm going from MSIII to knock controller to coils. John at J&S used a different resistor in the controller to be able trigger four coils from one output.
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is the MS 2 powerfull enough for that? or do i need to go with ms-3?
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You can use MS3X to run high current ignition in COP or wasted spark but you will need to build additional circuits. |
I have used both MSII-EXTRA and MSIII on this car. The VW ignition repair harness number is 1J0 971 658 L .
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ok so i need to get the ,ms2 with this ms extra got it
and thanks for the other vw pn |
If the extra few bucks isn't a problem I would go for the MS-III at least. I would also go for the MS-III-X too. I have the X board also but have not yet installed it yet. I want to go sequential fuel and spark and will be doing this soon. I have a two stage scavenge pump for the turbos with cam sensor to install. If you go wasted spark be aware they draw a lot of current. When I first got it running I was using one relay and fuse and at 4000 rpm it would blow a 25 amp fuse. I now have two relays and two fuses at 20 amps each and its alright.
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so if you use sequential spark then you have to use a cam sensor instead of a crank sensor? that doesnt make any sense to me since the cam timing is not variable. What am i missing?
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oh ok the cam sensor comes with the scavenge pump got it lol
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You only need a cam sensor if you are going to run sequential. If you go with batch fire injection and wasted spark ignition, you can get away with a single crank pulley sensor. Also, you can convert your distributor to function as a cam sensor or even as a single wheel missing tooth system that allows sequential with only one wheel/sensor.
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ok still dont understand why the difference, the crank turns twice as fast as the cam. Why cant you just program that speed difference in?
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