Need your insite on buying an enclosed trailer

[turbobrat930]

I probably would have gotten more repsonses if I posted this in the 911 tech forum...BUT I usually stay in here, and value some of you here.

I find myself not wanting to spend the money, but in a position where I might need to. I had planned on buying an enclosed trailer in the next year to two years, but the lack of finding a friend (close by) with a trailer to borrow or rent for a few weeks, has got me thinking.

Why dont I just buy one now?

So, here in lies my question.....

I dont have the funds to be buying the top of the line Aluminum encolsed trailer from Pace, Trailex, etc.... I have looked online and have found several trailer companies in my area, that build the trailers, and then sell them to the end user with no middle man.

They have the same axles as the more expensive brands (The ones that I am looking at use Dexter brand axles and are rated at 5200LBs each). So, GVWR is around 10,000 Lbs... The only option that I really would be interested in in an upgrade to the thickness of Aluminum for the outer skin. I HATE the way some of the cheaper trailers look with the buckled, wavy looking skin. (Why do they even make these??)

A 24' enclosed trailer runs about $4 grand or so.... upwards of 15 to 20 if you go Pace or others....

Have any of you ever dealt with some of these trailers, owned them, or used them? Are they worth the money, or am I going to be wishing I just rented a U-haul style trailer for when I need it?

Thanks again

Brad

[mussberger]

There are some nice used trailers here from time to time. Also you could do a search in the racing forum at rennlist for some info.

Towing/Trailers For Sale

[Benny771]

Great site,
Im looking for a 20' as well. Do they make one with the wheel wells not in the trailer at all? Opening a door is an issue.

[infraredcalvin]

What is your tow vehicle? Why a 24 footer vs a 18/20 footer. 24 is the size where weight starts to be an issue for some tow vehicles. Typically for a trailer you pay for lightness. I've been eyeballing some of the deals out there, and you can get a 5-10 year old pace or equal for a little more than your price range. Look at accessories and a tiedown setup similar to what you want. There are a bunch of these toy haulers that people cant afford right now that are decked out, lots of deals out there. Dont know anything about what you are looking at, it may be cheap and new, but by the time you outfit you will have paid for a nice used Brand name. Like anything else, best you can afford, and you'll spend less in the long run... Let someone else take the depreciation hit.

Forgot one last thing, do you have a place to store? You might spend enough in storage fees in a month for a days rental...

[turbobrat930]

Mussburger, Thanks for the link... I will be spending some time there...

Pat, I have a diesel pusher motorcoach, so the weight is not an issue... to a point ( I mean I will not be pulling a stacker around...) Its a 330 Hp/ 900 Ft of torque, so, pulling a loaded 24 ft or so trailer wont be an issue.

As far as the size.... I want to be able to put a few tools in there, Mig welder with bottle, etc.... and still have room for a golf/ pit cart up front. I dont HAVE to have that length, but if I am going to put the money in, I might as well be happy....

And yes, I have a huge barn that the trailer will reside in.... Pat, thanks for your input. I appreciate it!

[infraredcalvin]

Good to hear. I run vintage porsches with my best friend and we started with a 16 foot open and an 18 foot enclosed featherlight, from there a stacker to finally (really spoiled) a 40+ foot semi that holds 4 cars with spares and a golf cart. Every time we spent tons of time and thousands trying to set up the "perfect" tie down and equip hauler. The rig is set up pretty good with e track on the floor and walls, built in tool cabs, we tie down the cars using a lug tiedown. Used to use the suspension rings instead but found out the hard way that the cars moved around a little too much.

[David]

My racing buddy had a 24' Haulmark for several years. It was nice for the money and towed well. It held up reasonably well considering all the abuse and miles it got.

As a reference of how it pulled: I pulled it a couple times with my 1/2 ton but that was a last resort since it was pushing 7,500 lbs loaded.

[Cameron62]

I recently bought a 24' Car Mate with the floor dropped in the rear and a get out door on the left side.

The floor is pitched down from just behind the rear axel to the tail end, a total of 3 inches. I don't think I could get my 930 (US height) in and out if the floor wasn't dropped. As it is the stock exhaust drags on the ground just a bit as I'm coming up and down the ramp. If I lower the car, I'll have to get creative.

Also, with a rear engine car, you're going to find yourself needing to have the car further forward, in the trailer, than a typical front engine car. It's the only way to get enough tongue weight to keep the tail of the trailer from wagging when you're driving. The term wagging is cute - the event/situation is anything but. I am at least a foot further forward than if it was a front engine car. I had to ad extra tie downs far enough forward to where I don't know if a 20 footer would work - assuming the 4' difference is all forward of the axels.

Then there's the get out door. Since the car is so far forward, I have to be REALLY careful not to whack the side of the driver door on the get out door frame, during ingress and egress.

I hope this helps.