header install: hardware list / source? Oil line work needed?
 

So I scored Willtel's Powerhaus headers (schwing - thanks Patrick... dropping off @ my welder @ lunch... doesn't hurt he rocks an '86 930 / 996GT3 track car / 997GT3 MkII / 951 heh heh)... and will be tackling the install soon (stay tooned for guaranteed swearing, breaking things, and overall general frustration / jinx'd bad luckdom!) ...said welder / PNut friend also has a lift @ his house which won't suck!

Can youses please provide a soup-to-nuts (pun sorta intended?) hardware list? All nuts (incl turbo / WG), bolts, gaskets, etc.

and, source / $estimate?

W/ Powerhaus headers (w/ heat)... do I have to eff w/ the oil lines? If so, details plz?

'ppreciate it!!!

Yes I'll ensure he de-slags the hell outta 'em after the fixes 8-)...

fuchin _psyched_ to get these on STAT... feckyeah! While Brian's headers remain the penultimate goal of awesomeness incarnate, these cheapies will do just fine for now.

Anyone know anything about their headers? Their site is still up but they're # is inoperative - they out of business? Says save 18lbs and gain 40hp, 321 stainless. Collector and overall tube design / layout looks decent IMO, as well as do their welds (fix is for previously fixed WG line cracks, bung cracks).

Check out this link. Should have a lot of your questions answered in it. I would think the install would be very similiar.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/398454-ghl-headers-k27-install-questions.html

Paul,

There is a thread here on page 2 (I've a problem with my turbo drip tank ) posted by
YODA MASTER that will tell/show you everything you need to know about the scavenge pump, drip tank, and turbo oil/drain lines.


Cole

Thanks Bill - I should have searched that before I posted duh 8-). That was quite helpful regarding the lines.

Thanks too Cole. Managed to just confuze me more (not hard) 8-)...

So in Bill's install thread there seemed to be reference to an option of "just pushing the lines up" - any further detail on this? Or is it best just to cack over the crink for 2 $$$ new lines? Would rather not spend a couple hundred bucks if didn't have to of course.

Now, what about the hardware / gaskets?

Just dropped the left header off @ my bud's shop for the weld fixes... annnnnd heeeeeere we go!

the backdated carerra line makes for a very clean installation. new lines always excite me...

Got to go with new lines, much cleaner install. If you need the OEM oil lines #s let me know. It was an adventure but finally found them. Slippery road here we come...

Good to hear they arrived ok. Did the welder have any concerns?

Here is the tank I was using with them. It has AN fittings and lines that connect to the factory hard line just above the wastegate muffler.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3065/...861fab43_z.jpg
Wastegate Muffler by willtel, on Flickr


You can see the connection here.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2639/...69090fcc_z.jpg
IMG_0030 by willtel, on Flickr

Paul...you have the factory parts manual (pdf file)? I can email it to you if not. It will have all the p/n you need. If you go backdated oil lines, go on pelican and look for the oil lines they tell you must be purchased to use with the SSI exchangers...those are the "backdated" lines.

If you want to update the hardware that bolts your turbo to the outlet flange on the headers, McMaster Carr is a good source and cheaper than buying the individual items from our host (plus you get extras for your toolbox).

Finally, I'd recommend the copper exhaust nuts to bolt the exchangers up to your engine.

Thanks Patrick! Dropped them off @ my bud's shop yest @ lunch, got a call this a.m. as I was nearing his road near my office for him to say that they're DONE. Damn that was quick - I figured at least a week, now I gotta get on the hardware ball 8-)!

All set. There was some cracking inside the flange that wasn't pictured but no biggie, he knocked it out for me for a box 'o Joe and a dozen donuts for his guys come Monday - WIN! Whattapal, whattapalwhattapal...

Hey Jacob - na mon, email away - thanks! I've got an email into Brian about lines, hardware, driptank, etc., just awaiting a reply. I'll source whatever he doesn't sell per your suggestions.

My bud took me for a rip in his GT3MkII, I'd driven it before but he'd just installed a valve'd x-pipe - whoa whatta sound! Great way to start a sunny Fri... free header fix, GT3 WOT time 8-)...

Good to hear. I'm thinking of selling my B&B intercooler, since you are already on that slippery slope...

In my previous post I made the assumption that my oil return line is a factory part with an AN fitting. In reality I have no idea what it is as it was on the car when I bought it.

If you have they chance to get your car off the road and onto a lift go ahead and start soaking all the exhaust fasteners with some good penetrating lubricant. They are likely to be pretty well fused in there at this point. Good luck and don't get discouraged if your exhaust studs snap off like pretzels.http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/embeer.gif

Thanks for the thought kind sir! I scored a Garretson off someone here last month tho 8-). Def losing my footing here - d'oh!

I gave all the hardware a PB Blast shot when it was up for heater flapper inspection, and will give another few applications as I await hardware. I'm certainly expecting snappage, heck the nuts look like amorphous globs 8-/.

My buddy confirmed when I picked up the header that I can use the lift @ his house and we'll have a dudes 'n bierz 'n Porsches 'n headerz night soon as I'm ready - sweeeeeeeeeet. I'm practicing my swear words now...

Hey Paul, Carefull taking the old ones off (broken studs etc) I saw on the speed channel a new product by Loctite that freezes the nut/bolt AND has penetrating fluid.. Supposedly is magic!!

If you have access to an acetylene/oxygen welding kit or know an HVAC guy with a small portable setup you could borrow, it would be a big help getting rusted exhaust nuts off.

Heat them up glowing red hot with a brazing tip then turn off the torch and put it down. Put a wrench on the nut while still glowing a dark red a little bit and they usually twist off easily with a short squeak without breaking the stud.
If that doesn't want to work, turn up the gas or use a cutting tip and burn off one side of the rusted nut without burning the stud and it will come off.

Put copaslip antisieze (the best) or alumaslip on the new nuts when installing them.

I have heard 8mm stainless steel exhaust studs may not hold over the long run but there are some out there that say they will. Probably depends on the alloy they are made of.