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wcc wcc is offline
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GHL Headers and K27 install questions

I just removed the stock turbo and the factory headers with the help of Oh Haha and another friend that doesn't visit this board. Thanks a lot guys! Ok, we have everything removed pretty much. The wastegate is still connected so I have that to remove but it's going pretty well with no broken head studs or hacking up too much. Anyways, I have a few questions that hopefully you guys can help me with.

The hard oil line is in the way. Is there a replacement or can I just bend up the PS some to make the PS HE fit?

The OEM oil trip tank had two lines coming off of it. On to the airbox and one to a oil pump. I assume the new take will only run to the oil pump. So can I just plug the fitting to the air box?

I bought and adapter for the K27 and it came with two O-Rings. One is obvious where it goes. Where does the second one go?

When I removed the stock turbo seal came out as well but it's not an o-ring. does that go around the tube to the intercooler or just around the tin?

Lastly, the banjo fitting that goes on top of the wastegate fell out of the fitting next to the valve cover. Can I just slide it back in there and run with it or do I now need to replace something.

I think that's all for now. Thanks in advanced!
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Old 03-15-2008, 03:42 PM
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Let me see what I can help you with

Photo's definitely help in these cases but I just went through the same thing on my 87-930 so it's still fresh in my head.

1) Hard Oil Line: The oil line (if I'm correct) that is in your way is the one that comes from the crankcase and bends toward the rear of the car, runs along the bottom of the front of the motor and then makes another turn where it connects to another oil line going to your thermostat. Correct? If so, then you need to backdate your oil lines so that the line comes off the the crankcase and goes under the bell housing. This is a hard line only(not hard/soft) which will connect to a another new thermostat line. You will need to purchase both of them. They run abolut $115 each.

2) Drip tank: Yes, only one line. Cap off the nipple on the air-box.

3) K27 Adapter: I'm guessing that your referring to the billet aluminum adapter that goes on top of the intake portion of the turbo and connects to the pipe connecting to the IC. This will depend on what IC your using, but the connector has 2 o-rings. One is for the inside of that connector that slides onto the top of the turbo, the other is for outside of the connector where it will connect to your intake pipe as described above.

4) Stock turbo seal: Not sure what your referring to here... maybe the rubber gasket seal that fits between the IC and down-pipe? If so, reuse the same way as before.

5) Banjo fitting: This just connects to a rubber hose that in turn connects to your IC. The other tube just vents to atmosphere. The fitting on top is the one that vents to atmosphere. The one on the side connects to your IC.

Bonus: You may need to adjust your turbo support bracket and re-drill holes. When going to headers it often sits a little different and will not line up unless you drill new holes. I would not leave it off as the exhaust will be supporting all of the weight of the turbo and what ever muffler you connect to it.

Hope this helps. Best of luck with your upgrade!

Bryan
Old 03-15-2008, 04:07 PM
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1) www.goingsuperfast.com do a braided oil line if you want. I prefer the hard lines from the factory myself as you were advised above.
http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Porsche-911-Turbo.html



4) There is indeed a seal that gies around the turbo to seal it to the engine tin.
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Last edited by NathanUK; 03-15-2008 at 04:19 PM..
Old 03-15-2008, 04:11 PM
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Thanks Bryan for the detailed reply! Here are some pics...

The oil line in question. It sounds like I could either bend it up or get some new hard or braided lines.


Yes, it's the billet adapter. Is this where both the seals go? This is what we were thinking but didn't want to install it uless we're sure.


Here is the seal in question. It came out with the stock turbo so I am not real sure how it goes. Is this the one that goes between the turbo and the tin?
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Old 03-15-2008, 05:01 PM
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Correct

Bill,

You correct on pictures 2 and 3. I have the same billet adapter but never used as I needed to modify the down-pipe for the B6 IC. Instead, I used high pressure turbo hose between the turbo and down-pipe. That seal does go between the turbo and the tin. It helps to reduce things from going in or out of your engine compartment. Use it if you like. In the picture you are starring at the bottom of that seal. Turn it over and slide on the turbo prior to the billet adapter.

Regarding picture number 1, this is the line. You will need to replace with either a hard line that runs in the rear of the motor under the bell housing along with the new thermostat line or a stainless steel braided line as NathanUk had mentioned. I would recommend the hard line option. I did this on mine and have been very happy.

Bryan
Old 03-15-2008, 05:20 PM
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Thanks again! I think I'm back on track now. One last thing if you don't mind. Do you know that part numbers, a link, or the years of the hard lines that you used?
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Old 03-15-2008, 05:34 PM
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Oil Line Pictures

Bill,

Here are some pictures of the hard oil-line backdate. There is the hard line under the bell housing that connects to the new thermostat line which goes out of the picture on the right. This should help visually.

Bryan



Old 03-15-2008, 05:34 PM
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Oil Lines

I ended up going with a different supplier than our host as I could not find the appropriate help and/or oil lines that I needed. I mean I could not figure out for sure if the ones that I needed were the ones that I was looking at. Also, if the lines were in fact the same ones, our host was more expensive.

I always use our host to purchase everything, but these lines were the only thing I went elsewhere for.

I purchased from Performance Products. Here are there part numbers.

901684 ($84.96) & 901682 ($115.56)

If you are able to call them and get the Porsche OEm number, you may be able to buy from our host. I kept getting dead ends and the guy that helped me did this to his car as well and knew what I needed.

Bryan
Old 03-15-2008, 05:44 PM
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I'll see what kind of OE part numbers I come up with as cross reference and hopefully order them up on Monday. Now I can continue on..........
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Old 03-15-2008, 05:50 PM
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you gonna have all these bits and pieces by next Friday? I'm planning on heading over again to hopefully wrap this project up.
I can't wait to see how fast it is with the new turbo on it..


WOOHOO!
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Old 03-15-2008, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oh Haha View Post
Bill
you gonna have all these bits and pieces by next Friday? I'm planning on heading over again to hopefully wrap this project up.
I can't wait to see how fast it is with the new turbo on it.
Yup, I'll order it up Monday morning first thing and have it shipped 2-3 days or if it's questionable I'll overnight it. I appreciate your help today. I was telling the wife, between your tools and mine I think we have just about everything covered. Except flare nut crows feet.

I'm going to pick up the variety of nuts, bolts, threaded rod, etc Monday or Tuesday night. I have a lot of work to get done before next Friday.

Besides these oil lines do you think I need anything else? You can PM or email me.

This is gonna be SWEEEEEEEEET!!!
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Old 03-15-2008, 06:26 PM
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On my car the red silicone seal that is not an o-ring type did not go on the turbo before the billet adaptor.
Instead it was on the billet adaptor before the aluminum up pipe went on.
It sat where your ring finger is in the picture above it.
It's an air seal for where the turbo up pipe goes through the engine tin, but if you have a K27 on there that hole has been cut larger so it is not going to seal anything.

Your o-rings on the adaptor are in the right places. Putting a little grease on them lets things slide in place without tearing the o-rings.
Sometimes you have to dress up the casting lines and marks on the turbo to make the billet adaptors o-ring seal.
If that doesn't work and it leaks there, you can put it on with RTV silcone gasket sealer.
Old 03-15-2008, 06:57 PM
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Some Advice for smooth transition next week

A few things that may help you.

1) 36mm line wrench. You will need this to remove the oil lines from the crank case and the thermostat. If you don't have one, you can buy one from our host or buy a 36mm box ended wrench and cut a piece out of the end to make your custom line wrench that will slide over the oil line and then onto the nut. This is what I did. It took 2 minutes with a roto-zip and I was able to find one in town that day.

2) I would remove the oil line off the motor for sure and mock-up your headers with a few bolts (tightened) and then your turbo. This will allow you to make sure you will not have any issues with the pipe between the turbo and the IC. You may have to rotate the turbo on the flange to angle it better and/or modify the pipe if it's sitting to high (pushing up the IC). This will ensure that when you finally bolt up everything, she will go back together just as easy as she came apart. Headers may or may not change the height of the turbo which will affect where your pipe ends up resting.

3) By doing this, it will also allow you to figure out if at all, or by how much you will need to modify your holes on your turbo/exhaust support bracket.

4) Lastly, remember to remove the (red) fuse relays in your trunk for both fuel pumps so that before you start your car and attach the drip tank to the turbo, you can turn over your motor (without it starting) while priming your turbo with the oil that drained out of the oil feed line when you removed it. This will ensure that your turbo is primed before you start. Important: Do not crank the motor and then stop and then crank the motor and then stop and so on. This will push oil into the line until you stop and then it will go back where it came from. Turn the motor over for as long as needed to see oil come out the bottom of the turbo. Do not worry about your starter. Then, connect the oil tank and start her up.

Hope this helps,

Bryan
Old 03-15-2008, 07:15 PM
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JFairman - You're probably right that it won't be useable when the tin has been modified to fit the new turbo.

Bryan - Those are some great tips. I didn't even think of a couple of those. If you have any other ideas or tips feel free to post 'em up. It's very helpful.
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:25 PM
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I've used a large crescent wrench on that oil line since my big open end wrenches dissapeared... and it worked fine.

As far as priming the turbo, all you have to do is pour some motor oil in the oil feed hole before installing it and bolting on the oil line.
Then start the car and let it idle with the aftermarket turbo sump tank installed but the braided scavenge oil line not screwed onto it yet.
The turbo is not spinning fast at idle, not alot of oil flows through the turbo and the oil you pour in before installing it is plenty for the time it takes for the engine to supply oil to it.
You should see oil start to come out of the little oil tank shortly after starting it.
Then connect the oil line.

Not as messy, and you don't use up your starter motor being overly cautious.
Old 03-15-2008, 07:39 PM
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Response

Those will also work... except when accessing your thermostat oil-line. This will require a line wrench unless you take off the line in front of the other and then access it that way. Also, the Thermostat is not supported by anything other than the oil lines themselves, so have someone act as a counter torque when removing the line.

I was told how to prime the turbo from a Porsche mechanic. I'm sure pouring some oil down the feed line will work just as well. That is how I was taught.

All are great options. If you think of anything else, PM me and I will shoot you my number so you can call with questions.

Bryan
Old 03-15-2008, 07:45 PM
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X98boardwell:
The new oil lines in your picture, are they custom made?
Or are they from another 911 model?

Falk
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Old 03-16-2008, 05:22 AM
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The oil line Bryan has pictured are stock replacement Porsche. They are required when backdating to early heat exchangers for a 911 and headers for a 930.
The stock SC/Carrera/930 heat exchangers connect banks near the tranny requiring the stock oil line to be relocated to wrap around the front of the engine.
Those lines have taken a jump in price lately (what hasn't). If you can find them for less than $225 I would snag a set now.
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Old 03-16-2008, 06:43 AM
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Here's a question Bill didn't ask:

How the he!! do you safely separate the wastegate from it's mounting base?

We have the nuts off but that thing won't budge. We were trying to remove that before moving to the HE but , in the end, we ended up taking the DS exhaust with the turbo and WG still attached.
Obviously, there is a gasket but is there a trick or any tips to getting this apart? It's not my car so I refrain from doing anything too drastic but we do need to reuse it with the GHL kit.
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Old 03-16-2008, 06:51 AM
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You could try....

A rubber mallet around the base with light taps or a dead blow hammer. I would at least coat with penetrating oil to help break up the seal between the two parts.

I did not have this problem as my car is out west. I use to live in MI and completely understand where you are coming from. Just like taking a rotor off a car when re-doing the breaks.... it just needs constant persuasion and eventually it will come off.

Best of luck.

Bryan
Old 03-16-2008, 08:18 AM
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