Valve Adjustment - post rebuild

[forte500]

About 3K on rebuild and would like to do my own valve adjustment...a few other things need attention while I'm there. Questions for group after reading posts:

- Best to use Backside method?
- Engine/Trans drop best approach (overall less frustration)?
- Anything special required for 3.4L high-perf motor?
- Anybody live in CT want to assist a 1st timer ($50/hr coaching fee)?


I have lift and all the tools, so thought it would be good to learn.

Frank

[JJ 911SC]

I did it the easy way... The engine was out.

It was my first one. Did it the normal way but use the Back way as a check after (Go-No Go)

P.S. The coaching fee normaly paid in Beer and Pizza

[JBurer]

Hi Frank,
Off topic - but did you ever get to the bottom of what was causing that 1st gear AFR question you had a few months ago?

[gsxrken]

Originally Posted by forte500

About 3K on rebuild and would like to do my own valve adjustment...a few other things need attention while I'm there. Questions for group after reading posts:

- Best to use Backside method?
- Engine/Trans drop best approach (overall less frustration)?
- Anything special required for 3.4L high-perf motor?
- Anybody live in CT want to assist a 1st timer ($50/hr coaching fee)?


I have lift and all the tools, so thought it would be good to learn.

Frank

Hi Frank. I don't quite trust the backside method but that's just me. There's nothing wrong with the standard route. Just have plenty of the feeler gauges on hand as they do get tweaked and should be discarded after that.
No call to drop the drivetrain just for a valve adjustment.
You could ask your rebuilder, but I doubt the spec changed for your 3.4. Different cams still seem to use the same spec.
A lift would make the oil change and lower valves much easier. But the top intakes are on the other side of the tin and have to be reached from topside. Remove Intercooler and bypass plumbing, air cleaner, and swing the AC compressor out of the way and you'll be fine.

If I helped, we'd have to do mine right after yours. That lift sounds nice!

[Miguel Antonett]

Would you mind showing us a picture of the lift? Next on my "to do" list.

[forte500]

Think it would be easier to drop the motor, as I need to do oil change, replace G50 shifter seal, and address a few other misc things. That said - Backside or Std Ways? Can I use regular plug feel -gauge?



John - the AFR issue was caused by over tightening the gauge bezel (pinched the needle)

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by forte500

Think it would be easier to drop the motor, as I need to do oil change, replace G50 shifter seal, and address a few other misc things. That said - Backside or Std Ways? Can I use regular plug feel -gauge?

Definitely easier out. Do the normal one and you can use the backside as a Go/No Go.

For the normal way: you need one of them $5.40 + $6.40 for 3 extra blades; Porsche 911 & Carrera Filters & Belts - Page 4

Before you do start (either way), take a reading of the present state. Put the gauge in to see if thigh or loose and record it. Do that for the 12 valves, it will give you a feel for it.

Warning: If you have only 1 blade, it will break on the first or second one you will try to adjust. If you have 6 blades, like I had, you might be able to do all of them without breaking any... Murphy's Laws #911

[forte500]

lol....thanks for the advice. I will take it!

For the backside GO/No Go a standard feeler gauge should work, yes?

Before, I do all this - does it sound reasonable to do a valve adjustment on a new motor (3K)? I hear most of the clicking when driving in a tunnel or next to the divider on the highway, but I may just be paranoid. HAHA

[JJ 911SC]

You will need an ordinary 2.5 and 3 thousandths feelers for the GO/NO-GO gauges.

Pelican Technical Article: 911 Valve Adjustment - The Backside Method

[JBurer]

Originally Posted by forte500

John - the AFR issue was caused by over tightening the gauge bezel (pinched the needle)

Hah! That's the cheapest fix you'll ever find!!

[forte500]

Yeah, I was happy to feel like an idiot for once (or twice)

[forte500]

Is the lash/specs the same on all cams (964 vs. stock)?..mine is 3.4L with 964 cams.

[jwasbury]

I don't like the backside method. I also find the traditional method is a PITA. I really like this tool for the valve adjustment:The new 36-Degree Valve Adjusting Tool - Rennlist Discussion Forums

I believe the valve clearance should be the same for 964 cams as the factory spec.

[Telerding]

Can you still get this tool anywhere? Last post on rennlist on this is over a year old.

[Tippy]

It should be sold here

[gsxrken]

Originally Posted by forte500

Think it would be easier to drop the motor, as I need to do oil change, replace G50 shifter seal, and address a few other misc things. That said - Backside or Std Ways? Can I use regular plug feel -

if the motor is going to be out anyway, it might be interesting to try adjusting them with a dial indicatorM assuming you own one. You probably could observe the .004 easily enough, even if it was just to verify your feeler work.

[Ken911]

I tried the link it wouldn't open anymore. I have always thought this might be a better approach. Probably from doing so many small block Chevy's and Pontiac's with the engine running. Loosen until it starts clicking then tighten 1/4 turn while oil is splashing all over you new engine lol.

[zcoker]

I do mine with a dial indicator, the same Z block indicator used for the camshaft timing. I do this with the motor in the car. No problem. Very easy and very very accurate. Works great. I would not recommend adjusting the valves on a Porsche motor with the engine running.

[Ken911]

Originally Posted by zcoker

I do mine with a dial indicator, the same Z block indicator used for the camshaft timing. I do this with the motor in the car. No problem. Very easy and very very accurate. Works great. I would not recommend adjusting the valves on a Porsche motor with the engine running.

Duh, you do valve adjustments with the engine running on old chevy V-8's with hydralic lifters. Not on a 911. however the adjustment was measured by 1/4 turn past being loose. So the practice of backing off 1/10th of a turn from tight should be pretty accurate.

[forte500]

While the motor is out....anything else I should check besides valves....retorque heads? etc.?