Help with fine tuning CIS WUR/RPM module by BL
 

Hey guys,

I am looking for some one who has gone down the Brian Leaske path with the adj. WUR and RPM solenoid set up.

I have a local guy who is quite good at dialing in the CIS, but he does it more by "feel" than with "metrics" and we (currently) do not have an AFR guage. I will probably invest in one soon, but for now would like to get the engine really dialed in.

I'd like to see if anyone in the NY, NJ, CT, or MA area has tinkered with this setup and has the a dyno to make some passes. I am in CT and can do some traveling.

The car is a 1989 Carrera G-50 (narrow body), with an 1982 Euro 3.3T, SC cams, 1bar waste gate spring, K27, headers, Andial IC, Euro Fuel Dist and injectors with BL WUR and RPM solenoid (not installed yet).

It is running very strong but I fear that I have the wrong mixture everytime I push it hard. Don't want this engine to melt down!

Any recommendations appreciated.

Mike

Contact bobby Singh at manhattan motorsports, good aircooler guy, has a dyno.

you are flirting with the devil without an afr guage.

+1 well put, mainly with all the mods you have in there...

DynoTune - DynoTune-Nitrous systems, Purge kits, Nitrous Bottle heaters and more!

Put it this way, Its like having T.V. in the 70's and thats without rabbit ears... :p

My guy is in N.Y-Queens..

I would try find a shop close to you and friendly.. Do a sniffer test/prong on start-up-rolling--etc..etc..

Best advice is get an innovate MXT AFR gauge first and install it. The electronics are all inside the gauge and you install an O2 sensor in the exhaust. There are 3 wires to hook up and a plug together cable from sensor to gauge. For a 911 you need the sheilded extension cable innovate makes to reach the O2 sensor in the back.
This AFR gauge is quick and easy to read, totally consistant and always works. It probably cost less than several dyno runs.

Others work too if you prefer the looks of them.

I'd guess if you never go over 1 bar boost with your current setup the euro fuel head and injectors will be supplying enough fuel.
Brian Leask sets up his adjustable WUR/CPR's pressures pretty good for most motors when he rebuilds them if you tell him what you have.
I would put it on the way it is and try it. You can always put the origonal one that sounds like it's working back in.
The rpm switch is simple too, just follow Brian's instructions.

I have an Innovate LM-1 wide band that uses a handheld for recording AFR readings and a cigarette lighter for power. You would need an O2 bung in your exhaust after the turbo, which most aftermarket exhaust probably have. Anywya, I'm in NY 10598 if you want to swing by and take some blasts through the gears to make sure you're in the safe zone, and some cruise tuning.
PM if interested.

We took the car out for a ride today. Runs unbelievable. Timing is a bit too advanced. My guy could not get it running strong before the new WUR, but that was due to a bad alternator and kept playing with the timing. We were chasing our tails and it was just not getting the right voltage. That is behind us now. So he has to retard the car back. I am going go with the LM-1 round guage I tink. I understand it fits right in the clock opening. This is just for assurance while we are dialing it in. Once we are happy, we will do a dyno run to get some output readings. Any ideas on "Porsche" guys with 930 experience with dynos?

gsxrken.. pm me your info. I 'd like to get in touch with you. I am in CT and maybe we can connect some time. My guy is pretty good with the 930s but another set of eyes and ears can never hurt.

Cheers,

Mike

Got my gauge and here the preliminary readings:

11.5 at idle, in the 12s between 2-3k rpm with gentle throttle increase. Stays in the 12s untill WOT or full boost at 1 bar, then afr drops in the 9s which is rich, correct? I read that 11.8 is ideal for turbo engines. Any comments?

IMO, you're rich in all three settings... does it ever lean out from 9s at WOT?

Small aside: should I remove my exhaust system before tack electric welding the sensor bung? Weld on the bench instead of the car?

I would take it off, in such way you don't have any chances to arc the turbine blades...

Got my AFRs pretty good now. Next step is the AEM water/methanol kit. Anyone in the North East that has gone this path to recommend a shop to "tune" it in preferably on a dyno? I can do NY, CT, NJ, MA, RI. Must be well versed with 911 Turbo/ CIS, otherwise I will stick to my own skills.

Your first test result was as follows:

11.5 at idle, in the 12s between 2-3k rpm with gentle throttle increase. Stays in the 12s untill WOT or full boost at 1 bar, then afr drops in the 9s which is rich, correct?

Too rich across the board. Now that you've adjusted it, what are you seeing?

JMO sounds tad lean under HVY BOOST>?

Afr at 9 is too rich I believe.

There are several threads about this, but I believe your targets are good. Other might back me up on that.

I am basing my answer on what the dyno people told me..about 13 IF I remember correct..

You're flip-flopped it would seem. 13 is leaner than 9. I usually run around 11 to 12 at full boost (ambient air temp does have an impact in my experience). Generally speaking a person is safe at very low 12's or less. Now if a guy wants to blow mondo flames, then run in the 9's for nice rich unburnt gas fumes in the exhaust.

13.7 is ideal for a normally aspirated car which is too lean for a Turbo engine. I don't have my #s handy but it never gets over 12 so I am "in the safe zone". Stored now for another 6 weeks or so as winter is upon us. Still would like to hear from the "gurus".

Mike

I believe 14.7 is ideal (stoichiometric), off boost.