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-   -   Need a little help as in where does this hose connect? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/750794-need-little-help-where-does-hose-connect.html)

phrogs 05-18-2013 10:29 PM

Need a little help as in where does this hose connect?
 
Hey guys,
Can anyone help me out with this hose, where should it be going? I find it very odd that it is just open to atmosphere, and since this is my first Porsche I haven't got a clue.

I noticed this when I got the car home back in December, and I left a few days later. It has been 5 months and I am headed home to play with my car and I want it to run right.

Thanks
johnny

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1368944537.jpg

mdripley 05-19-2013 06:02 AM

could you give a little more info? what year is your car is it US or ROW?

I have an 87 930 and my hose connections look different than yours.
I will post a picture of my hose connections in that area maybe it will help.

JFairman 05-19-2013 06:02 AM

Follow the other end of it and see where it goes, that'll tell you what it is.
If it goes down to the top side of the turbo oil drip tank it's a vent line and origonally went to a hose fitting on the bottom left side of the air cleaner. Thats not far from where it is now.

Or it's one of the air pump system hoses.

mark houghton 05-19-2013 08:44 AM

I think it's part of the emissions air injection system, and goes down to a small canister (most likely a gulp valve/one-way valve) then on to the air injection plumbing. I have all my air injection stuff gone except for that hose and the air injectors and injector header.

See what my car's previous owner did to deal with it. I suggest you do something a bit more professional, but any plug will work. Of course if you still have the air pump and all the stuff for functional injection, then best to connect it back where it belongs.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1368981747.jpg

JFairman 05-19-2013 09:33 AM

Yeah I think you're right Mark, one of the molded air pump hoses.
Maybe it used to be turned 90degrees the other way to go through the engine tin down to the left side check valve leading to the air injector "spider" manifold.

It looks familiar now and I probably still have it in a box of old hoses. It's been a long time since I removed all that crap because we don't have emission testing or inspections in Floriduh and it's in the way of doing intake valve adjustments on that side.

That Japanese made air pump is heavy... alot of cast iron and steel in it and it's alot of extra weight where you shouldn't have extra weight in one of these cars.

If you don't need it to pass emission inpections definately remove it... and all the lambda BS under the driver seat and on the fuel head too.
Then take an hour or three and retune the fuel head and the motor's ignition timing curve to run wayyyyyyyyyyy better without it.

phrogs 05-19-2013 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdripley (Post 7449617)
could you give a little more info? what year is your car is it US or ROW?

I have an 87 930 and my hose connections look different than yours.
I will post a picture of my hose connections in that area maybe it will help.



It is a US Car 1979.
I will have to get in there and track it down to see where the other end is connected to.

phrogs 05-19-2013 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFairman (Post 7449888)
Yeah I think you're right Mark, one of the molded air pump hoses.
Maybe it used to be turned 90degrees the other way to go through the engine tin down to the left side check valve leading to the air injector "spider" manifold.

It looks familiar now and I probably still have it in a box of old hoses. It's been a long time since I removed all that crap because we don't have emission testing or inspections in Floriduh and it's in the way of doing intake valve adjustments on that side.

That Japanese made air pump is heavy... alot of cast iron and steel in it and it's alot of extra weight where you shouldn't have extra weight in one of these cars.

If you don't need it to pass emission inpections definately remove it... and all the lambda BS under the driver seat and on the fuel head too.
Then take an hour or three and retune the fuel head and the motor's ignition timing curve to run wayyyyyyyyyyy better without it.



Is there a post on how to do this? removing all of the AIR stuff, I will search for one as well.

and what about pluging the tubing going into the heads?

I do not need the emissions crap so I will drop it first chance I get.

I just looked at the parts book and my suspicion is that it is part of the air system and connects to that diverter valve that is right there.

JFairman 05-19-2013 11:04 AM

To remove the emissions crap cut the air pump belt off if it's still there and turn the mounting nuts and bolts counter clockwise all the way and pull the parts off no matter how hard they are to get at.

You can buy the air injection plugs for the cyinder heads here on pelican, they're cheap.

The rest has been posted many times before and it would be a part time job to post it all again in many extensive paragraphs every time some one asks.. sorry to sound flip but thats the way it is..
Hope that helps. Do some searches.

phrogs 05-19-2013 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFairman (Post 7450004)
To remove the emissions crap cut the air pump belt off if it's still there and turn the mounting nuts and bolts counter clockwise all the way and pull the parts off no matter how hard they are to get at.

You can buy the air injection plugs for the cyinder heads here on pelican, they're cheap.

The rest has been posted many times before and it would be a part time job to post it all again in many extensive paragraphs every time some one asks.. sorry to sound flip but thats the way it is..
Hope that helps. Do some searches.



Yeah that's why I said in the above post that I would do searches for the info.:D


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