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Oh yeh the bump steer kit...... I did forget to mention that I do have the full monty bump steer arrangement from Clint as well.
Speed bumps...we don't care about any stinking speed bumps! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385431413.jpg Mark |
Quite the journey, glad you finally got it sorted out.
With the rear coilovers, don't you need to reinforce the upper mount? I've seen pictures of unreinforced uppers that have cracked and pulled away without reinforcement. |
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Looks great! I'm about to embark on a similar project without the sway bars and coil overs. Would you be so kind as to list any special tools that are required, or just make the job easier? I'm a big "right tool for the job" guy. Thanks for sharing your work.
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But actually old wives tales do come from somewhere, so I did purchase the kit from Clint (and some spare bushings for the rears just for my own paranoia of small vendors disappearing off the earth). But I'll be damned if I'm dropping the engine right now after this, or trying to weld them in with a partial drop. I have a great miller syncrowave 185SD TIG welder, but it (or better said, I) require some real clean metal and some elbow room to put down nice beads. I'll drop it for something else soon enough and do them then. On edit: Mark you sly dog. |
So I can wrap up this thread now that I got to really exercise the car on a day long 300mile excursion. Let me lead with this- I would do it again but earlier. Waiting didn't save any money and the car could have been like this for a few years now.
The car tracks flatter, turns in quicker, and doesn't waggle boosting off a corner in 2nd gear like it used to. Brake dive is better and so is squat under accel (although I don't have the power many of you do). I do wonder if the Tarrett bars are adding some thump into the cabin that rubber bushings would lessen. I may disconnect them next spring and take a ride just to see what part of the equation they are playing. I have them full soft in the front and mid-way in the rear to start with, and didn't learn anything on the street that would make me change them yet. I didn't push the car to where I experienced any understeer or oversteer in either case. Another interesting observation is how sound plays a role in feel. I had noise canceling headphones with me and when they are on, the car feels more civilized, more modern if you will. Take them off after a bit, and it seems like the harshness of the road imperfections grows. Of course it doesn't, but this is a very repeatable sensation. Lastly, like many of these suspension updates, I can't say how much is just due to R&R-ing 26 year old parts and how much is the bushing and shock design. No doubt the car was never this firm- that's just math- but the feedback is much more direct. I can't wait for a track day! Here's how she sits after the CB and alignment: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i...o/DSC_1874.JPG |
I love the way it's sits..perfect stance! I'm glad to hear it was all worth it. I was told by Dan J. that I might get some noise from my sway bars(Smart Racing). Though you have Tarrets, the design is very similiar. Can't say that I heard much(just a faint noise). Then again you put more miles on your car in one day than I probably have put in my car since the install..lol. Your assessment is why my advice to anyone buying a 930 is, always do your suspension first prior to any mod. Most of these cars are over 25+ years old. Regardless of miles(garage queens included) the suspension should be treated first unless the selling owner has proof that he or she has gone over the suspension.
p.s. Ken..when's the power bump coming?..:D |
Your Tarett sway bars can't be as noisy as the old, ill-fitting rubber bushings on my weltmeister bars. I only noticed it after installing the nice and quiet Rebel Racing bushings everywhere else though.
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Rear Trailing arm Bushing fit
Rebel Racing rear kit issue is the bushing that fits onto the chassis stands out about 5.5mm too far where the flange should be flush. Am I missing something?
Clint's mailbox is full so no phone contact, email sent but no reply yet, but just sent this morning. Anyone else have this issue? My plan is the machine the bushing down to where the flange fits flush against the chassis. comments welcome, the car is a 71911E |
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Rebel Racing Rear bushing
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596812384.jpg
Pic of torsion bar bushing. |
I think that is normal. Attached is a pic of when I did mine. I had a short piece of aluminum I used to measure the distance from the face to the studs to get an idea if how many shims to use on each one.
You can see there is a gap from the tub to the face that is pretty large. I would also recommend the reinforcement plate while it's apart. I bet 75% of the lower studs crack at the pan. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596813998.jpg |
Thanks for the pic. THe issue with my current setting is that the spring arm is quite a bit away from mating to the swing arm. It seems it has to go in further to get a good alignment with the swing arm. could you measure the bushing in relationship with the threaded stubs?
We have sent our bushings out to machinge 5.5mm to allow the flange to seat against the chassis. |
A very nostalgic bump for one of the better what/how/why 930 suspension threads I fond on the forums....
I have a ROW '85 930 I picked up a year or so ago, lower miles, still what I believe to be all original suspension. Nothing blatantly worn or loose, but so worthy of an upgrade. It will see virtually no track time (I have a somewhat modified 996 Turbo as my track day car), but want to sharpen her canyon skills a bit. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733712955.jpg |
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And welcome to the air-cooled side of the forum. |
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