Car dying-thoughts?

[Skillet83]

I have put about 1500 miles on this 88 turbo since owning. Not one problem. When up to temp, simply amazing. My son went to drive it around the block one night last week, watched him as he drove off, went from 1st to 2nd and just died. Car would turn over, but not start. He did not make it off our street. Car sat for 1.5 hrs., then started right up.

Did not think too much about it, but still in the back of my mind. Took it out today, not even warmed up, got about 3 miles, cut out twice and immediately pulled over, dead! All occurred in a matter of seconds. Would turn over, but no start. Sat for twenty minutes, then started on first turn. Got it back to the house. Seems like fuel, but do not know chit about these cars. Might be a chance at a learning experience for me.

Service just completed:

valve cover gasket and seals
Bosch coil
Distributor rotor and cap
Plugs
Clutch job
a few other misc. items
Thought a new fuel pump was installed, but not seeing it on invoice.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

[jsveb]

I would clean fuses, relays etc, front and back

[mooney265]

how does it run when fully warmed up?

[Skillet83]

Have not had one issue with car. Idles around 800 when cold, just under 1000 when warm. Liquid smooth when warm, pulls hard, boost comes on early, but very smooth. Sounds and runs like a beast. Do not drive it very hard, but will run it up over 5k on a on ramp once in a while. I know where the fuses are up front, but not in back. Will search. Thanks

[nickyclyde]

Just went through the same problems with mine. I checked speed relay under front drivers seat, lubricated ignition switch and am now using a fresh cut key. Changed out noisy front fuel pump. Checked red wires at battery terminals. No further issue , runs great now. May sound a little nutty checking the ignition switch and using a new key but just yesterday out of habit I used the old original 72000 mile key and had to jiggle it to get power to my radio. So my bet is that it was either the ignition key switch and/or the fuel pump.

[Skillet83]

Ok fellas, you can have some fun now. How do you check to see if a relay is good or bad? Fuses, never seen fuses like this before, how do you check them? Seems like a solid piece of copper? Found the fuses in the rear jsveb. School me, I promise, I take direction well.

[oilonly]

I would suspect the CDI box, it's a good idea to have a spare one anyways. of course check fuel pump fuse and relays first for tight fit.

[Skillet83]

nickyclyde, We crossed posts. Thanks for the reply. I am thinking fuel problem as well, maybe fuel pump. There are 2 fuel pumps, correct? one in rear, one in front? If so, where is the front pump located? Thanks

[oilonly]

Fuel pump fuse is sixth fuse away from windshield and fuel pump relays are the two closest to the windshield, it is all on the card on your fuse cover.

[Alan L]

First - beware of letting son in this car. It is addictive. You may loose yours, or end up having to buy a second one.
Second - another place to look - which causes infuriating problems like this, is the overboost switch. It can cause intermittent issues. It provides the earth loop for the fuel pumps. When it looses continuity (normally through overboost), it breaks the circuit and shuts the pumps down. But over time the internal connections can fail too - same result. It is located below the LH rear corner of the intercooler - screwed into the intake manifold. Next time it happens, disconnect the wire from the terminal and earth it out somewhere else and see if the car fires.
Alan

[Skillet83]

Oilonly, the fuse and relay up front for fuel are secure, is that the only thing I need to check there? Also, looking at the car from the rear, drivers side, there appears to be a box with a few fuses and a yellow relay. Not sure what that is, but not very secure.

[oilonly]

Yes that yellow relay must be in securely, remove it and expand the male pins with fine blade (size matters) and make it fit snug. You can also jump two pins on the female side to override that relay, do a search on that as all my saved searches are gone.

[Alan L]

You jump 87a and 30. They are marked next to the pins on the relay. 87a is fused power in, 30 is power out.
Alan

[Tonger]

A defective fuel accumulator can also be the problem. If the diaphragm is broken then it loses its ability to maintain pressurization and you can get vapor lock when hot - and it won't start. I had a frustrating hot start problem that resolved after I changed this. I also took the opportunity to change the fuel filter while I was in there.

Good luck!

[nickyclyde]

Front fuel pump is near steering column. Rear fuel pump is right behind it. Both are up front.

[JFairman]

Front fuel pump is next to the steering rack behind the gas tank and the rear pump is in front of the left rear tire nearby the left side rear sway bar mount. If they are running you can hear them buzzing.

[Tt surgeon]

Agree with Al, thinking Cdi box.

[Miguel Antonett]

Check the fuel head plunger movement... it could be getting stuck... it should move freely up and down.

[klefroid]

Can be many many things here. I had the same problem and mine was the IGNITION COIL that only worked when cold. Just have a look and see if you got sparks when she dies

[DSPTurtle]

I would look at the items just replaced since it seems that the problem just surfaced. Anyway, plug wires and dizzy cap can sometimes be installed not so perfectly. Also, why did you change the coil? The newer Brazilian coils are sometimes junk.
One other thing, see if those big red relays say "uro" on them. They are junk and occasionally cause intermittent problems.