Installed the PSJ finally last night. Easy peasy.

Seemingly just about nailed the adjustment w/ my SWAG trial install. Sweet. Fourth feels a little 'tight'(?) but the rest seem good.

Here's a comparo shot for those interested:

<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C0XYIYd4lvU/VUwlmHK5ABI/AAAAAAAAk4o/UEajOIJsjFQ/w1253-h705-no/20150507_225511.jpg"height=400width=600>

When I'd had the motor out last year I'd replaced the trans tailshaft seal, but with the joint in the way in the tunnel here I'd just left the PUDDLE of gooky schmelly transfluid... blech! This was a REAL nice opp to douche all that out:

<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s_t7cPEsc5M/VUwlVQxWv3I/AAAAAAAAk4c/EvWDJXBLn8k/w1253-h705-no/20150507_225351.jpg"height=400width=600>

QUESTION: does ^that boot in there^ actually mount around / inside of the trans input flange, or just press-fit against????

my OE joint w/ 60k clearly shows the bushings to be fully knackered - assplains why when I tightened everything up @ the shifter end w/ the Wevo install that I could then not find reverse - very visible slop:

<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ttRa1zYIyc0/VUwlwTQXLbI/AAAAAAAAk40/6iQoEDF67NQ/w1253-h705-no/20150507_225538.jpg"height=400width=600>

Can't wait to try it out - off to Napa now for my final vacuum hose needed to complete my full-bay IC install then I can start it / test drive... WOOT!

Paul, the OEM coupler is designed to be sloppy like that. Not sure why, but it is.

I just reinstalled my Wevo PSJ and boot last night. The boot does fit around the outside of the flange on the tunnel hole. I used a big zip tie around the outside of it to keep it on there.
The smaller hole in the boot was a little bit of a decision for me. I decided to put the boot completely on the transmission side of the PSJ instead of covering the PSJ with the boot. It does seem to work, but I haven't driven it yet... I think this is better for the PSJ since it now will not be exposed to the elements through the hole as it would be if it was inside the boot and any grease will be contained inside the boot if it is tied onto the flange. I replaced that same seal, so I'm hoping it keeps it clean now.

interesting on the designed slop

good to know on the boot - and great tip!

say now...

you fire your POS up yet or WHAT!?!?!?!?

Really close. Installed the battery and fired up the fuel pumps to make sure there were no fuel leaks last night. So far, so good.

The only reason I can think of for the built in OEM bushing slop is to make life easier on the synchro hub slider grooves and bronze/brass shift forks.
With the original rubber bushing motor and transaxle mounts the engine and transaxle can move for and aft in the chassis a small amount when accelerating and braking hard so that little bit of clearance in those bushings is a good thing while that happens.
If solid or urethane WEVO engine/transaxle mounts are installed then there will be no for and aft movement of the engine and transaxle and then the WEVO shift coupler would tighten up shifter slop with no increased wear on the synchro units.

People that rest their hand on the shifter between shifts or anytime the motor is running put some force on the shift fork and synchro hub groove interface and just accelerate wear in that location.

Imagine how hard (sorry) it's going to be for me who is also replacing a 915 with 930 gearbox. I have not got my gearbox in any gear and am starting from the middle of no where as far as points of reference. Plus I still have to cut my shift rod probably! Augh!!
I need to get that psj

:eek:

ur 12

Inches!!!

Going G50 in a 930 here. Should be fun!!

a'ight

I boasted about nailing Reverse on first SWAG mounting... er um uh... who needs 2nd?

So I've got 1 / 3 / 4 / R going fine now, no 2. Tried extending the length (t'd that one up for ya Ronkees) of splines showing to no effect.

Do I need to clock the splines instead? Is this adjustment axially as I've been trying, or radially?

Appreciate the insight as always, gentz... (and Ronnie!)

Maybe the generics were actually fakes - try a different pharmacy, maybe?!?!?!

http://viagraclub.com/wp-content/upl...09/viagra4.jpg

^^ oh man...does Paul need those blue things?

Paul...try move the coupler shaft a few millimeters further into the shifter side shaft. Ronnie this is for Paul's car...not whatever you are imagining!!

ah, I was moving it further out - so further in then?

Yep...I'd go about 5mm further in...then tighten and check for engagement of all gears. Skip checking reverse for now since you are not changing the orientation (rotation) of the shaft. Try to set it so that engagement between 1st and 2nd are the same and likewise between 3rd and 4th.

Whatever do you mean, Mike?! :confused: My thoughts are "pure as the driven snow" (to quote eNourmousmaximus). :)


For example, I see nothing errrrr, "funny" about this exchange between you and Paul, I swear!!!

:eek:

With the stock OEM shifter the for and aft adjustment is simple. It's correct when the bottom half of the shift rod is straight up - not leaning forward or backward.
I don't know how it would be with any of the after market shifters.

I appreciate the citation, Ronnie.

Wevo install - no reverse
 

I just did this with a new gearbox, wevo classic, and the wevo shift coupler. It takes a good amount of subtle adjustment to get every gear to engage correctly.

1. I completely agree about adjusting the shifter with the housing in first gear. The first and second gear plane is the default. However, just a little bit of radial angulation can make a big difference.

2. With the shifter in first gear you can adjust a little bit radial angulation either clockwise or counterclockwise as well. The other shifter adjustment is in and out and determines how far forward or back the shift knob is in first and second gear. When entering second gear my shift lever tends to bang into the shift housing a little bit but I have elected to live with it as the gears engage well and there is no more adjustment to move it any more forward.

If you take the car out of first gear, you can always move the shift coupler manually.

It took me a good 20 min of trial and error until I got what I wanted. Now it shifts great.

I just did this with a new gearbox, wevo classic, and the wevo shift coupler. It takes a good amount of subtle adjustment to get every gear to engage correctly.

1. I completely agree about adjusting the shifter with the housing in first gear. The first and second gear plane is the default. However, just a little bit of radial angulation can make a big difference.

2. With the shifter in first gear you can adjust a little bit radial angulation either clockwise or counterclockwise as well. The other shifter adjustment is in and out and determines how far forward or back the shift knob is in first and second gear. When entering second gear my shift lever tends to bang into the shift housing a little bit but I have elected to live with it as the gears engage well and there is no more adjustment to move it any more forward.

If the car pops out of first gear, you can always move the shift coupler manually.

It took me a good 20 min of trial and error until I got what I wanted. Now it shifts great.