Wevo install - no reverse
 

Just finished installing my Wevo classic.

1 thru 4 work great.

Reverse... not so much.

Or, at all.

Whatwherehow is this adjusted? Anyone BTDT?? WTF'd I do wrong (aside from even so much as TOUCH a wrench to begin with)???

TIA.

(mygawdIfukkingHATEtaking my console on/off/on/off - and now my AFR gauge is flickering, fuxored the wiring pulling the console about - arrrrrrgh!)

Like you've ever had a problem backing up on anything before..

Now this is a first.

Been there with regular shifters.. you need to adjust the shift coupler in the back under the cover thats held on with 4 tapping screws under the carpet. Sounds like just a little bit while moving the shifter sideways. It's kinda hit and miss till you see which way you need to go with it.

thanks Jim

So - is this normal, considering it shifted just duckily prior to removing the OE shifter?

I've got their PSJ enroute, looks like I'll wait for that.

I've never installed a WEVO shifter so I can't say it's normal but I've had to adjust the shift coupler a hair one way or another on this car and other 911's and 912's for other reasons.

Once you figure out what's going on the hit and miss adjustment might take 10 minutes.

Whats a PSJ?

OK cool thanks - just kinda odd to me it worked fine now doesn't

will give that ago when the PSJ arrives (thanks Chris!) - Precision Shift Joint:

http://www.wevo.com/Products/Shifter...StockPhoto.jpg

I think WEVO makes a shift coupler like that. They look nice and must work tight. Sometimes the rubber boot is reddish orange.

yes, that's what this is and what I meant by "their" 8-)

Paul, I had the same issue when I installed the wevo psj and wevo short shifter and it was just as Jim said. Minor adjustment of the position of the shifter shaft so it would go into reverse cleanly. A little trial and error and you wilL get it.

Paul's usual problem is finding something BIG enough to back up on that offers any resistance at all (think nuclear power plant silo and the like) !!!

http://www.roadsideamerica.com/attra...plant_kevf.jpg


Hmmmmmm - one of Paul's errr ummmm, "lifestyle mottos" fer sure!

thanks for the Wevo-specific affirmation, Jeff - that makes me feel better... I was pretty frustrated after contorting mahself down in thar

esp annoyed having to now address my AFR wiring... grrr...

Yep...just need to adjust the shift joint especially since you swapped out the shifter. Bummer about the wiring.

Hey Paulie! I've had mine for 3 years now and it's critical to set it up by putting box in 1 st before adjusting coupler. Follow directions at wind rush .com. Call me if you still can't get it. I'm still tired from being at the Mitty in road Atlanta with Pete :eek:

FRANK!

NOICE you were there w/ Peteski... good times, fersure.

Thanks mucholy for the insight on top of the others', really appreciate it.

Good to hear from you - I may just get mesself in to a fabricated jam fer excuse to give you a long overdue shoutout heh heh...

I was just adjusting my shift coupler last night. Put a mark on the shift rod so you know where it was, then make tiny adjustments, seriously 1/16" makes a big difference.

^thanks^

(So you buyin Edweirdo's Fikse's? Awesome set up IMO!)

I'd like to buy Eds wheels but he's not responded to my PMs, I didn't offer his asking price, so maybe he's offended, but he could at least come back with a counter offer! The Canadian Dollar is so bad right now the wheels will cost me $25% more plus shipping :/

I hear ya.

Ed is NOTORIOUS for being HORRENDOUS @ communicating. Hence my baulbustage in his FS ad 8-). Been a dozen++ years of that. I only hear from him when he needs something.

Great friend, eh?

Really good dude tho, kidding aside (sort of!).

I think his ask is reasonable tho, IMO. Good luck, that set up would look great on your car certainly 8-)...

Love those wheels but thats a premium price, of course thats just my humble opinion.

Other than reverse, how was the rest of the install paul?

Paul's been having much difficulty completing the various installs because he keeps errr, ummm, "mounting" the new parts in ways that were not intended (aka - Paul sure luvs his parts) !!!!

Installed the PSJ finally last night. Easy peasy.

Seemingly just about nailed the adjustment w/ my SWAG trial install. Sweet. Fourth feels a little 'tight'(?) but the rest seem good.

Here's a comparo shot for those interested:

<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C0XYIYd4lvU/VUwlmHK5ABI/AAAAAAAAk4o/UEajOIJsjFQ/w1253-h705-no/20150507_225511.jpg"height=400width=600>

When I'd had the motor out last year I'd replaced the trans tailshaft seal, but with the joint in the way in the tunnel here I'd just left the PUDDLE of gooky schmelly transfluid... blech! This was a REAL nice opp to douche all that out:

<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s_t7cPEsc5M/VUwlVQxWv3I/AAAAAAAAk4c/EvWDJXBLn8k/w1253-h705-no/20150507_225351.jpg"height=400width=600>

QUESTION: does ^that boot in there^ actually mount around / inside of the trans input flange, or just press-fit against????

my OE joint w/ 60k clearly shows the bushings to be fully knackered - assplains why when I tightened everything up @ the shifter end w/ the Wevo install that I could then not find reverse - very visible slop:

<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ttRa1zYIyc0/VUwlwTQXLbI/AAAAAAAAk40/6iQoEDF67NQ/w1253-h705-no/20150507_225538.jpg"height=400width=600>

Can't wait to try it out - off to Napa now for my final vacuum hose needed to complete my full-bay IC install then I can start it / test drive... WOOT!

Paul, the OEM coupler is designed to be sloppy like that. Not sure why, but it is.

I just reinstalled my Wevo PSJ and boot last night. The boot does fit around the outside of the flange on the tunnel hole. I used a big zip tie around the outside of it to keep it on there.
The smaller hole in the boot was a little bit of a decision for me. I decided to put the boot completely on the transmission side of the PSJ instead of covering the PSJ with the boot. It does seem to work, but I haven't driven it yet... I think this is better for the PSJ since it now will not be exposed to the elements through the hole as it would be if it was inside the boot and any grease will be contained inside the boot if it is tied onto the flange. I replaced that same seal, so I'm hoping it keeps it clean now.

interesting on the designed slop

good to know on the boot - and great tip!

say now...

you fire your POS up yet or WHAT!?!?!?!?

Really close. Installed the battery and fired up the fuel pumps to make sure there were no fuel leaks last night. So far, so good.

The only reason I can think of for the built in OEM bushing slop is to make life easier on the synchro hub slider grooves and bronze/brass shift forks.
With the original rubber bushing motor and transaxle mounts the engine and transaxle can move for and aft in the chassis a small amount when accelerating and braking hard so that little bit of clearance in those bushings is a good thing while that happens.
If solid or urethane WEVO engine/transaxle mounts are installed then there will be no for and aft movement of the engine and transaxle and then the WEVO shift coupler would tighten up shifter slop with no increased wear on the synchro units.

People that rest their hand on the shifter between shifts or anytime the motor is running put some force on the shift fork and synchro hub groove interface and just accelerate wear in that location.

Imagine how hard (sorry) it's going to be for me who is also replacing a 915 with 930 gearbox. I have not got my gearbox in any gear and am starting from the middle of no where as far as points of reference. Plus I still have to cut my shift rod probably! Augh!!
I need to get that psj

:eek:

ur 12

Inches!!!

Going G50 in a 930 here. Should be fun!!

a'ight

I boasted about nailing Reverse on first SWAG mounting... er um uh... who needs 2nd?

So I've got 1 / 3 / 4 / R going fine now, no 2. Tried extending the length (t'd that one up for ya Ronkees) of splines showing to no effect.

Do I need to clock the splines instead? Is this adjustment axially as I've been trying, or radially?

Appreciate the insight as always, gentz... (and Ronnie!)

Maybe the generics were actually fakes - try a different pharmacy, maybe?!?!?!

http://viagraclub.com/wp-content/upl...09/viagra4.jpg

^^ oh man...does Paul need those blue things?

Paul...try move the coupler shaft a few millimeters further into the shifter side shaft. Ronnie this is for Paul's car...not whatever you are imagining!!

ah, I was moving it further out - so further in then?

Yep...I'd go about 5mm further in...then tighten and check for engagement of all gears. Skip checking reverse for now since you are not changing the orientation (rotation) of the shaft. Try to set it so that engagement between 1st and 2nd are the same and likewise between 3rd and 4th.

Whatever do you mean, Mike?! :confused: My thoughts are "pure as the driven snow" (to quote eNourmousmaximus). :)


For example, I see nothing errrrr, "funny" about this exchange between you and Paul, I swear!!!

:eek:

With the stock OEM shifter the for and aft adjustment is simple. It's correct when the bottom half of the shift rod is straight up - not leaning forward or backward.
I don't know how it would be with any of the after market shifters.

I appreciate the citation, Ronnie.

Wevo install - no reverse
 

I just did this with a new gearbox, wevo classic, and the wevo shift coupler. It takes a good amount of subtle adjustment to get every gear to engage correctly.

1. I completely agree about adjusting the shifter with the housing in first gear. The first and second gear plane is the default. However, just a little bit of radial angulation can make a big difference.

2. With the shifter in first gear you can adjust a little bit radial angulation either clockwise or counterclockwise as well. The other shifter adjustment is in and out and determines how far forward or back the shift knob is in first and second gear. When entering second gear my shift lever tends to bang into the shift housing a little bit but I have elected to live with it as the gears engage well and there is no more adjustment to move it any more forward.

If you take the car out of first gear, you can always move the shift coupler manually.

It took me a good 20 min of trial and error until I got what I wanted. Now it shifts great.

I just did this with a new gearbox, wevo classic, and the wevo shift coupler. It takes a good amount of subtle adjustment to get every gear to engage correctly.

1. I completely agree about adjusting the shifter with the housing in first gear. The first and second gear plane is the default. However, just a little bit of radial angulation can make a big difference.

2. With the shifter in first gear you can adjust a little bit radial angulation either clockwise or counterclockwise as well. The other shifter adjustment is in and out and determines how far forward or back the shift knob is in first and second gear. When entering second gear my shift lever tends to bang into the shift housing a little bit but I have elected to live with it as the gears engage well and there is no more adjustment to move it any more forward.

If the car pops out of first gear, you can always move the shift coupler manually.

It took me a good 20 min of trial and error until I got what I wanted. Now it shifts great.