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IMR-Merlin's Avatar
 
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EFI twin plug gap and type

Anyone know if I should use factory 930 plugs (and gap) for my EFI twin plug car?

Just getting the valve adjustment back in and when I pulled the plugs there were autolite plugs in there and they look pretty black from running rich.

Thanks

Old 05-18-2015, 03:34 PM
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ive been running bkr8eix for some time now with a gap of 22 and cop with no blown out spark in the 20psi range.
Old 05-18-2015, 03:49 PM
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what coils?
Old 05-18-2015, 03:52 PM
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Electromotive Tec3
Old 05-18-2015, 04:19 PM
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NGK 8's are pretty much the plug to run. Bosch silvers in heat range 3 are eccentially the same spec plug. .022 is the ticket as well, exactly what Frank stated. If you try over .024 then they start to blow out. At over 1k I tried going to 9's. But they were too cold. I went back to 8's. Been well past 20psi with no issues. The BKE8EIX are nice because they have a 5/8 hex instead of 13/16, which make it easier to deal with when installing or removing.
Old 05-18-2015, 04:20 PM
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Great, thanks guys.

The car had Autolite 4062's in there, gap was .020 +/- I like the BKE8EIX idea.

This engine had a 9% leakdown on one cylinder and I had zero valve lash on one intake valve, so i am hoping that was it...
Old 05-18-2015, 05:10 PM
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All the talk about non resistor plugs with EFI being very BAD idea what is the situation with 930 EFI setups? I would first like to run fuel injection with my current 'MSD/blaster/superconductor_wires/resistor_less spark plugs' setup by adding a VR/pulley and a cam sync HALL sensor on the air pump housing. Possibly MS3-PRO for ECU. The VR sensor installs pretty close to the distributor!

I have unused org Bosch w3pdo platinium plugs (expencive) to use but are they going to give me too much trouble with MS3-pro and VR+HALL? I could try to sell my plugs unused if the EMI is a big problem even with only the fuel injection.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:02 PM
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I am also running the Taylor Spiro-Pro wire. So does that change the plug to a non-resistor?

Just curious
Old 05-19-2015, 02:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smurfbus View Post
All the talk about non resistor plugs with EFI being very BAD idea what is the situation with 930 EFI setups? I would first like to run fuel injection with my current 'MSD/blaster/superconductor_wires/resistor_less spark plugs' setup by adding a VR/pulley and a cam sync HALL sensor on the air pump housing. Possibly MS3-PRO for ECU. The VR sensor installs pretty close to the distributor!

I have unused org Bosch w3pdo platinium plugs (expencive) to use but are they going to give me too much trouble with MS3-pro and VR+HALL? I could try to sell my plugs unused if the EMI is a big problem even with only the fuel injection.
Use resistor plugs. Lesson learned here.
Old 05-19-2015, 05:39 AM
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EFI with no noise suppression would be bad. If you can hear static on the AM radio band, it is not good.

The W3DPO spark plugs are designed to go with the original braided/shielded wires, which have the resistor built into the connector. That is why they are non-resistor.
Old 05-19-2015, 06:28 AM
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No radio on my car but I could test some portable radio later or should the power come from the battery for diagnosing. Maybe this is irrelevant as its a bad idea anyway to try and run resistorless plugs with efi. They have improved the EMI resistivity with ms3-pro though.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:34 AM
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No radio on my car but I could test some portable radio later or should the power come from the battery for diagnosing. Maybe this is irrelevant as its a bad idea anyway to try and run resistorless plugs with efi. They have improved the EMI resistivity with ms3-pro though.
To me its a no brainer. Noise is THE worst thing IMO you can have with EFI. You cannot tune it properly ever unless it's dialed out.
Old 05-19-2015, 08:05 AM
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I think it is a good idea if you are using a capacitive discharge ignition that does multiple spark. They work best withe the lowest possible secondary resistance.
Old 05-19-2015, 08:11 AM
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Optimally I would like to first just do fueling and possibly later ignition. My current ignition is very strong (plus I have two simple maps behind a switch) so I feel like it would be downgrade to change to cops or alike? Ls2 has had good reviews but changing all at once has more possibilities to something go wrong compared to doing it in stages if at all butthe EMI issue still remains. My plug wires are rfi resistant though.
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Last edited by smurfbus; 05-19-2015 at 11:11 AM..
Old 05-19-2015, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smurfbus View Post
Optimally I would like to first just do fueling and possibly later ignition. My current ignition is very strong (plus I have two simple maps behind a switch) so I feel like it would be downgrade to change to cops or alike? Ls2 has had good reviews but changing all at once has more possibilities to something go wrong compared to doing it in stages if at all butthe EMI issue still remains. My plug wires are rfi resistant though.
I also started with fuel only. Same logic as you stated.
Old 05-19-2015, 11:43 AM
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I have seen guys working frantically for hours even days trying to figure rough running/ no start issues only to switch plugs to resister and all problems gone. Save yourself the hassle. And yes use the air pump pulley for your cam signal for full sequential ms3.. It works great
Old 05-19-2015, 01:31 PM
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so, bottom plugs are much smaller than top plugs, including thread size. I am new to twin plugs, so it's a learning curve.
Old 05-19-2015, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMR-Merlin View Post
so, bottom plugs are much smaller than top plugs, including thread size. I am new to twin plugs, so it's a learning curve.
On some engines. that is the easier way to do it. I have seen in the old days motorcycle plugs ran at the bottom. Also if people run same size plugs there is a clearance issue with the head bolts that can be overcome, but what a hassle.
Twin plugging an engine has no real bearing on plug style, gap. Timing is what is really changed with twin plugging, you can run much less advance and actually you need to run less advance.
Anybody running single plug timing on a twin plug engine is leaving hp. on the table.
Old 05-19-2015, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
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On some engines. that is the easier way to do it. I have seen in the old days motorcycle plugs ran at the bottom. Also if people run same size plugs there is a clearance issue with the head bolts that can be overcome, but what a hassle.
Twin plugging an engine has no real bearing on plug style, gap. Timing is what is really changed with twin plugging, you can run much less advance and actually you need to run less advance.
Anybody running single plug timing on a twin plug engine is leaving hp. on the table.

They are tiny plugs for sure. Anyone have a baseline for timing to get started?
Old 05-19-2015, 04:16 PM
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Merlin just as gjf stated above its much easier with the smaller hex size especially on the bottom as all machine shops vary in size and even angle ( that's why I had bill at Xtreme do mine) but you want to use same plugs on top and bottom I think, even though there has been discussion of diff heat range on bottom vs top. With any Efi system noise is the killer. CORRECT GROUNDING to a common spot on the block to even include your wideband ground is as essential as resister plugs. There I ranted. I'm done

Old 05-19-2015, 04:20 PM
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