When I restored my gas tank and repainted it I used an old 10mm bolt that takes a 17mm wrench to turn the strainer on the bottom.
I put it in the big allen head fitting and turned it with a pipe wrench.

huge thanks for the direction thus far, gentz - I appreciate it

going to try blowing thru (carful Ronnie) the fuel filter first (low hanging fruit) and hope for the best - it's newerishish, but who knows.

Hooked up my CIS gauge... and... it leaked a bunch @ the fittings... awesome, I rule as usual. All I could see was I got 42psi with the lever turned inline with the line (not across)... think that's control pressure? Gave up on that for now after seeing the leaks.

Sucks about the tank screen to test - I've got prolly 3/4tank full still. Ugh. That's going to be a disaster.

Any tips on 18gal of fuel extraction appreciated... all I can think of is drain carefully into 5gal jugs and pour it into my other cars as I go? Can't say I'm relishing that thought whatsoever.

Alas, if it fixes mah issue.......

You can use the fuel pumps to drain the tank into containers the way I described before.

CIS gauge vid:
http://youtu.be/2VktDzVxapU

duh, good point Jim!

Kenster... excellent, thanks for that as it's been YEARS since I'd last run this test.

I have it correct then, and w/ my WUR plugged in I think I saw 42psi so about right... prob had further to rise but I had to shut it down due to my fitting leaks (adapter fitting @ the fuel distributor supply line - I'll have to figure that out).

If you need to empty the gas tank, you can buy a hand pump at Harbor Freight for $10-$15. I had to do that on my Escalade and it worked just fine...The hand pumping took about 10 minutes. And I had about 20 gallons in my tank at the time. But if you are able to use the pumps like Jim suggested, that would be the easiest/best way...

That could take hours of hand pumping.
Doesn't make much sense.. unless you need the exercise.

I borrowed a transfer pump from a friend, an inline fuel pump with a hose for the tank with a filter inline and one for gas cans, About 6 to 7 feet long overall.

I removed the fuel sending unit and went in the tank that way, look through the hole when empty and see what there is in the tank. If you see nice and clean try the filter, if you have lots of junk, pull the tank and do it right. The mechanic that was working on the new car did the filter 3 times, he could have gone through the process 10 more times and still wouldn't have gotten all the trash out of the tank.

Hello , i sent you a PM

Paul, make sure that friends and loved ones are at a safe distance when you start a huffin' & a puffin', as with yer legendary prowess in that thar exercise, the bottom of the fuel filter is guaranteed to shoot right off and become a lethal projectile in the process!!!!

good talkin w/ you Helio - thanks

so... it's both pumps complaining... finally pulled green fuel distributor plug ,and let the pumps sing and confirmed.

swapped front 2 red FP relays w/ 3rd red relay up there (oil cooler fan), no effect

will test voltage next

Paul,

If you have one of your old pumps laying around. Just fab up a couple temp lines and electrical connection.

Drop on line in the tank through the fuel gauge sender and the other in a gas can or other vehicle. give it 12v and transfer away...

have you checked filters yet? have you tried to drop the fuel line coming off the gas tank?

Seems to me that you either have a clogged screen or filter.

If he unscrewed the fuel supply line to the fuel head and ran it into another container and then turned on the pumps it would instantly confirm if there are any restrictions like fuel filters or whatever before the fuel head.

It takes maybe 1 minute to do but it sounds like thats not going to happen for some reason if he hasn't tried it by now.

sorry yes Jimbo I'm going to do that as soon as I can find a long hose to slip over the feed line

Have you had time to work on this, Paul, or have you been too busy performing man-servant-toe-touch chores?

I was also wondering if you have looked at the fuel pump relays. I've read quite a few posts in the 911 forum about how the ones currently available (not just the URO brand) are garbage compared to the original ones, but you can carefully remove the covers from the originals (using a tiny, flathead screwdriver) and gently sand the points with fine sandpaper and get them working well again if the windings are not shorted, etc. I did that to all of my originals just the other day, and then re-sealed them with a small amount of caulk (put a couple of dabs in the cover groove before putting it back on and then rotated the cover, once on, in order the spread the caulk (no NOT cock) evenly around the perimeter.

Might not be your problem, but relatively easy to do and worth a shot.

If you need some factory relays, I have some. I swapped all mine out for a much better (but far from stock) set up.

Just for a reference though.... all my dyno runs were done with my single 044 running off of a 14ga wire from the painless wiring harness and we had plenaty of fuel pressure up to 470 CHP.

^apples vs. oranges though, I believe. You're EFI and Paul is CIS which I understand requires very high pressure to operate correctly.

agreed, but the dual 044 only keeps pressure up over the run, not flow. And a small wire was running full flow at 18 PSI which was 70 PSI of fuel pressure @ 6500 RPM

Hence my "just for reference"... ;)

thanks guys

Only progress I've made is I swapped in a new fuel filter to no avail - figured mine was "new enough" and was right, what's another $28 tho 8-/. Pumps sounded quieter upon initial key turn but that must have been while system pressurized as the sound quickly degraded back to straining. Damn.

I did swap out my (now superfluous) fender oil cooler fan relay with each of the two FP relays... tried all combinations. No effect.

next is to test voltage - hopefully tonight

and then - to begin draining the tank... ugh