How hard is it to remove the studs in the turbo?

[Emission]

I'm bolting on a new exhaust, and the male studs on the exhaust end of the turbocharger are a bit too long. I assume they come out (do they?).

If I need to replace them with shorter studs, how hard are they going to be to remove (while the turbocharger is still bolted in place)? I don't want to break one...

- Mike

[IMR-Merlin]

Do you have a smoke or blue wrench?

[Emission]

Originally Posted by IMR-Merlin

Do you have a smoke or blue wrench?

I actually had to Google that!

Nothing as hard-core as an oxy-acetylene torch. My tool kit has a BernzoMatic that burns MAPP gas.

Suggestion?

- Mike

[IMR-Merlin]

Heat would be your best bet.

When I have to work on a manifold (or turbo) its best to get the nut as hot as possible to get it off the stud, then the flange as hot as posible to get the stud out of the flange.

[Emission]

Heat. Great idea.

Better news is that I just looked through some of my old pictures and it appears that I replaced the studs about a decade ago (two are in, two are out, in this image). So, they haven't been in there for 29 years!

[Groovie Ghoulie]

taking mine out, sheared 3 out of 4. that was with liquid wrench soaking for a week straight.

Good luck. And may the odds be ever in your favor.

[copbait73]

Do yourself a favor. Run a nut down on the thread then cut it off to the length you want with a cutoff wheel. Clean up the thread then unscrew the nut.

[IMR-Merlin]

Originally Posted by copbait73

Do yourself a favor. Run a nut down on the thread then cut it off to the length you want with a cutoff wheel. Clean up the thread then unscrew the nut.

THIS

But he said he wanted to extract the studs, not shorten them.. If that were the case, THIS would have been my advice.

Ask a specific question, get a specific answer.

[copbait73]

He first said the studs were too long, he needed shorter threads.

[Ruf930]

Hello everyone,
my first post here I find this forum great so I decided to join and thought to offer my personal experience on those stubborn studs and bolts that don't want to move,


Anyway heat is/was the cause of studs being stuck right?

A torch is often recommended but with varying results....idea being you heat the surrounding area of the problem child breaking the bond..

I know it will work sometimes if aged Loctite is the reason its sticking so much and we all know heat will break that bond, but if the bolt is seized due to rust and time I don't believe heat is always the best answer.

I'm not sure if its available in the states but I use a product called (Freeze it) about $25 a can
It comprises of the pressurised gas (cold) which holds slippery stuff some form of lubricant

You spray it directly on the head area of the bolt for two or three minutes shrinking it allowing the lubricating agent to seep in,

I find this extremely effective

A can of this stuff will do about ten tight bolts or studs
no affiliation

My two cents


Re: username RUF pronounced (Rough)

Best of luck with your project

[Emission]

Originally Posted by copbait73

Do yourself a favor. Run a nut down on the thread then cut it off to the length you want with a cutoff wheel. Clean up the thread then unscrew the nut.

Great idea... but... (see below).

Originally Posted by IMR-Merlin

THIS

But he said he wanted to extract the studs, not shorten them.. If that were the case, THIS would have been my advice.

Ask a specific question, get a specific answer.

You are correct. I did say I needed them shorter... (see below).

Originally Posted by Ruf930

Hello everyone,
my first post here I find this forum great so I decided to join and thought to offer my personal experience on those stubborn studs and bolts that don't want to move,


Anyway heat is/was the cause of studs being stuck right?

A torch is often recommended but with varying results....idea being you heat the surrounding area of the problem child breaking the bond..

I know it will work sometimes if aged Loctite is the reason its sticking so much and we all know heat will break that bond, but if the bolt is seized due to rust and time I don't believe heat is always the best answer.

I'm not sure if its available in the states but I use a product called (Freeze it) about $25 a can
It comprises of the pressurised gas (cold) which holds slippery stuff some form of lubricant

You spray it directly on the head area of the bolt for two or three minutes shrinking it allowing the lubricating agent to seep in,

I find this extremely effective

A can of this stuff will do about ten tight bolts or studs
no affiliation

My two cents


Re: username RUF pronounced (Rough)

Best of luck with your project

Also great advice!

The good news for me is that I don't need to remove them and replace them with shorter studs. I forgot to add one of the exhaust gaskets, which is thick enough to "shorten" them enough to allow me to get the copper nuts on. Or, I can put the nuts in place as I install the exhaust, not one at a time.

Thanks for all of the help. Your insight helped me think through the problem.

- Mike