Euro Ride Height?

[Tug68]

Looking for euro ride height info,measurements from front and rear fenders to the ground. Thanks in advance.

[full quack]

Euro height front...about 2 inches too high.
Euro height rear about 1-1/2 inches too high.

Helpful I know...... :}

Mark

[JFairman]

I agree, "EURO" ride hight is too high.. off the ground. I set it where it looks good to me and everyone else that's seen it agrees.

Once you've decided where you like it do a front toe adjustment and check the rear toe. The rear toe doesn't change much with small changes in ride hight and it's a lot of work to adjust it, and then drive it to settle the new adjustment, and then check it again with strings squared off around the car at center hub hight.

[Jeff NJ]

Jim, does a ride height adjustment only change the toe? I want to tweak my ride height, but don't want to pay for another alignment. If its just toe, that I can do. Camber, caster, etc., not so much.

[JFairman]

Yes, it only changes toe in the front end.
Caster and Camber remain the same. You have to move the top of the strut which is mounted in the camber plate around to change those settings.

[krasuskyp]

keep in mind Tim ERH refers to stock wheels

that data is bunk on your 18" hooptie's

Set it where you like it and forget it

agreed tho - yours does currently run a bit high and will look TITS properly set now w/ that biitchen front valance 8-)

[Tug68]

Yes need to drop it with my hooptie's and new valence on. Need to get some street cred!

[xbmwguy]

You really need to set height where you want then do full alignment AND a corner balance

[krasuskyp]

oh yeah cb/align fersure

also factor in a bumpsteer kit if you've not already installed

[Tremelune]

"Euro" height applies to a few early cars and is not measured using the fenders:

1987 carrera pros & cons of lowering to European Height from stock?

You can lower it to where it looks the way you want it, but there can be handling compromises that will go with it.

[timc]

Originally Posted by JFairman

Yes, it only changes toe in the front end.
Caster and Camber remain the same. You have to move the top of the strut which is mounted in the camber plate around to change those settings.

Doesn't it also affect the weight at each wheel?

[JFairman]

Originally Posted by timc

Doesn't it also affect the weight at each wheel?

If you visually watch your socket wrench and turn both front ride hight adjustment bolts the exact same amount I don't see why it would affect the weight difference on the front wheels or the rear wheels.
If I'm wrong correct me with an explanation.

[full quack]

Lowering a cars ride height has more affect on alignment than some of you guys are eluding to.
As the suspension moves up-n-down, the wheel does not move in a linear fashion, the suspension geometry causes it to move in a slight arch.
The more you lower the car the more observed negative camber is seen (top of the tire moves inward toward the center of the car).
Depending on how much you lower the car, will dictate how much camber change will be observed. Even caster is affected when lowering, just not as much as camber, and toe changes goes without saying.

My car is lower than most on this forum, and it took a lot to correct the suspension geometry on my car after slamming it, don't be fooled, dropping ride height affects EVERYTHING!

Mark

[timc]

Originally Posted by JFairman

If you visually watch your socket wrench and turn both front ride hight adjustment bolts the exact same amount I don't see why it would affect the weight difference on the front wheels or the rear wheels.
If I'm wrong correct me with an explanation.

Nope, Not saying you are right or wrong, just asked a question as I was curious thats all....

[k.b.930t]

Originally Posted by full quack

Lowering a cars ride height has more affect on alignment than some of you guys are eluding to.
As the suspension moves up-n-down, the wheel does not move in a linear fashion, the suspension geometry causes it to move in a slight arch.
The more you lower the car the more observed negative camber is seen (top of the tire moves inward toward the center of the car).
Depending on how much you lower the car, will dictate how much camber change will be observed. Even caster is affected when lowering, just not as much as camber, and toe changes goes without saying.

My car is lower than most on this forum, and it took a lot to correct the suspension geometry on my car after slamming it, don't be fooled, dropping ride height affects EVERYTHING!

Mark

Mark,just wondering what all you did to make her drive straight?I think mine is probably as low as your's and my next move was to work on the suspension.I really like the look of having my car low so I was thinking to maybe go with a taller tire to maybe get a little more grip around corners.

Sent from my SM-P607T using Tapatalk

[full quack]

The basic list is as follows...
1.) Raised front spindles 40mm.
2.) Custom length Von shocks and inserts with valveing for my specific torsion bars.
3.) 30mm/23mm torsion bars.
4.) Rebel Racing front control arm bushing replacement blocks.
5.) Rebel Racing rear pivot replacement bushings and torsion bar tube mounts.
6.) Tarrett 22mm adjustable sway bars front & rear.
7.) Wevo weld on rear sway bar mounts.
8.) Fikse custom 3 piece wheels 17 x 8.5 fronts, 18 x 11 rear.
9.) B.F. Goodrich comp-2 tires 255-40 fronts, 295-35 rears.
10.) Elephant Racing welded on bump steer correction system kit.
11.) Strut tower brace.
12.) Hawk HSP front pads, Pagid RSR Black rear pads, all new rotors.
13.) Full alignment & corner balance, with the car setup with the proper 1.5 degree front to rear rake angle.

That pretty much sums it up. Car sits with 2" clearance under the front spoiler....:}

Mark