930 Targa Engine Drop & Upgrade Project
 

So I started this project over the summer but haven't had time to post my progress. I'm still not finished with this project but getting very close.. The plan started as a engine drop to address several oil leaks and upgrade a few things but as usual project creep took over. My car is a 1975 Carrera Targa with a '78 930 swap that was done by the previous owner. I am not trying to increase hp as I know the 915 isn't great with too much power. I just want a well sorted car and as leak free as possible.

Here was the original plan:

• Exterior motor reseal

  • RMS, FMS, Valve covers, Oil lines, Intermediate shaft seal, Triangle area, and Chain tensior cover gaskets.

• Valve Adjustment
• New K27
• Rarlyl8 Muffler
• F46 Tial wastegate
• Clean up wiring harness
• Install AFR
• Rebel Racing motor motor/trans mounts

I ended up adding a lot to this list as I found several unexpected items that need to be addressed and kept adding things to the list that were easier to do with the motor out.

• New clutch and KEP Stage I Pressure Plate
• Clutch Cable
• Bosch 044 Fuel pump (I found I only had 1 pump in the rear)
• New fuel lines from tank motor to allow the addition of the second pump up front.
• CIS Injector Servicing
• Rebuild Scavenge pump
• Engine Pad
• Painting of Engine Tins
• Fan Restoration
• Shroud Repair and Paint
• Input Shaft Seal on Transmission
• Shift Rod Seal
• Rear Wheel Bearings
• Rebuild Axles
• Rear Shocks
• Pedal Cluster Rebuild
• Throttle Linkage Rebuild
• Replace Throttle bushings in Tunnel
  

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I made this engine dolly out of some scrap baltic birch plywood. My floor jack fit perfectly under it and kept the height I needed to raise the car up to a minimum.
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The original table of parts. I had to add another table later when my hardware order came in and additional parts were added.
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Motor came out pretty easy from what I was expecting. The platform was very stable and held both the engine and trans without issue.
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This wiring will be addressed later.
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The motor leaked oil from under the turbo and near the transmission. After long drives smoke would come out from the back side of the motor near the firewall and made my clothes smell like oil. I discovered oil dripping on the back side onto the heat exchangers.
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Some pics of the oil leak locations

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When I tackled my engine leaks a couple of years ago I didn't have the luxury of being able to drop the motor, but had pretty much all the same leaks. Luckily I didn't have any crank shaft seals leaking. I basically just bought 2 or 3 of each gasket and O ring, wanting to try both Viton and the regular red O rings for best fit, all new al gaskets etc etc.

It takes a little while, but my engine is completely leak free now. The engine thermostat was a pain to get out as the O ring was hard as a rock, but some gently prying finally loosened it. My only surprise was the engine oil cooler. I took it to have it flushed and tested, turned out the cooler core was leaking. These are non-repairable and about $1,000 to replace.

You should definitely plan on replacing all the cam oil lines as well. Remember, there have been some design changes, you can't just replace the rubber/metal line as the other line won't fit. You need to buy the whole sets.

Flightlead I ended up replacing the cam oil lines as well.

Here are some pics after engine was cleaned up and valve covers painted.

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I used VHT wrinkle finish for the valve covers.
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powder coat the tin.

mine started leaking between the chain housing and cam tower after I fixerd other leaks and put it back in,
then it leaked from the seal for the shift rod at the front of the tranny. I had to take it back out for that one and take the end of the tranny off.
also replaced the output flange seals.

the 3 tranny seals are ones to consider while out.

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Moved to RMS
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Used the old pilot bearing I was replacing to make a tool to install RMS using some hardware and pluming pipe. I wanted to make sure it went in straight.
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Pic before I had it fully installed. I went with the Elring per what I read. Hope its the right one.
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Moved to the cam oil lines and chain cover gaskets
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Used Loctite 574 on all the gaskets
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More pics

Made a soda blaster and rebuild throttle linkage
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Looks like I had a leak at the input shaft. Got this cleaned up, replaced input shaft seal and shift rod seal.

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Covered trans with Gibbs to prevent corrosion.
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Am I the only one getting a little chubby from this?

^No, I enjoy these threads too!

Tidy work, there, Brian.

Thanks guys.

This wasn't in my original plan but I read that its a good idea to rebuild the scavenge pump when installing a new turbo. I'm glad I did.
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The previous owner over tightened the return oil line and stripped the threads. Guess his solution was to RTV it.

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I was going to buy a used one but decided to try and fix it with a heli-coil which I have never done. The kit I bought came with a punch to remove the heli-coil tang that happened to be the same diameter as the smaller pilot hole inside the pump. This allowed me to align pump in my drill press vise on center when drilling out the stripped threads.

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I realized after I inserted the heli-coil that I needed to clean up the mating surface where the copper washer seals. I made a sanding bit out of a washer & sandpaper to smooth the sealing surface. I wish I had taken a pic of the final product after cleaning.
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Soda blasted everything, replaced shaft seal, front seal, and hardware.

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Got really lucky and found a local metric hardware supplier that had this hardened rod in the exact size I needed so no cutting.

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really nice work. That is one clean engine!

Thanks Garen. More pics of progress

Another unplanned item was the rear bearings. I found that my axles were leaking at the CV boot due to a tear. I figured the rear bearings should be done since I had the axles out for rebuilding.
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Didn't take very many photos of the bearing remove but made a tool using a threaded rod and various pipe from Home Depot. Also used a heat gun and put bearings in the freezer overnight.
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I strongly recommend putting your hubs in the freezer which helps when installing them and keeps you from forgetting to install the E-brake bracket first.
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After I did the left side I learned that renting a slide hammer makes quick work of removing a hub. Took 5min vs. 30min on the left side
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Prior to this project I was having intermittent issues with the rear emergency brake not releasing. I took this picture after I removed the E-brake cable that was covered in grease that I think was causing the issue.

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Also cleaned up the trailing arms and installed new rear shocks

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Funny, I am in the process of having much the same list; done by a mechanic though :(

I am also having the Transmission rebuilt with shorter 2 and 3 gears! I am so much looking forward to driving it. Plus some Fiskes (Fuchs) are on the way with new rubber!

Be thankful you have the 911 trailing arms which use a single bearing unit. The 930 trailing arms use two bearings separated by a crush sleeve that must be compressed to a certain endplay for the bearings when drawing up the axle nut. If you over do it, you tear it all apart to replace the crush sleeve and start over. The bearing races are separate and must be jacked out and new ones jacked back in.