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Brian911T 12-16-2017 05:40 PM

930 Targa Engine Drop & Upgrade Project
So I started this project over the summer but haven't had time to post my progress. I'm still not finished with this project but getting very close.. The plan started as a engine drop to address several oil leaks and upgrade a few things but as usual project creep took over. My car is a 1975 Carrera Targa with a '78 930 swap that was done by the previous owner. I am not trying to increase hp as I know the 915 isn't great with too much power. I just want a well sorted car and as leak free as possible.

Here was the original plan:
  • Exterior motor reseal
    • RMS, FMS, Valve covers, Oil lines, Intermediate shaft seal, Triangle area, and Chain tensior cover gaskets.
  • Valve Adjustment
  • New K27
  • Rarlyl8 Muffler
  • F46 Tial wastegate
  • Clean up wiring harness
  • Install AFR
  • Rebel Racing motor motor/trans mounts
I ended up adding a lot to this list as I found several unexpected items that need to be addressed and kept adding things to the list that were easier to do with the motor out.
  • New clutch and KEP Stage I Pressure Plate
  • Clutch Cable
  • Bosch 044 Fuel pump (I found I only had 1 pump in the rear)
  • New fuel lines from tank motor to allow the addition of the second pump up front.
  • CIS Injector Servicing
  • Rebuild Scavenge pump
  • Engine Pad
  • Painting of Engine Tins
  • Fan Restoration
  • Shroud Repair and Paint
  • Input Shaft Seal on Transmission
  • Shift Rod Seal
  • Rear Wheel Bearings
  • Rebuild Axles
  • Rear Shocks
  • Pedal Cluster Rebuild
  • Throttle Linkage Rebuild
  • Replace Throttle bushings in Tunnel

I made this engine dolly out of some scrap baltic birch plywood. My floor jack fit perfectly under it and kept the height I needed to raise the car up to a minimum.

The original table of parts. I had to add another table later when my hardware order came in and additional parts were added.

Brian911T 12-16-2017 05:53 PM

Motor came out pretty easy from what I was expecting. The platform was very stable and held both the engine and trans without issue.

This wiring will be addressed later.

The motor leaked oil from under the turbo and near the transmission. After long drives smoke would come out from the back side of the motor near the firewall and made my clothes smell like oil. I discovered oil dripping on the back side onto the heat exchangers.

Brian911T 12-17-2017 09:28 AM

Some pics of the oil leak locations

flightlead404 12-18-2017 06:51 AM

When I tackled my engine leaks a couple of years ago I didn't have the luxury of being able to drop the motor, but had pretty much all the same leaks. Luckily I didn't have any crank shaft seals leaking. I basically just bought 2 or 3 of each gasket and O ring, wanting to try both Viton and the regular red O rings for best fit, all new al gaskets etc etc.

It takes a little while, but my engine is completely leak free now. The engine thermostat was a pain to get out as the O ring was hard as a rock, but some gently prying finally loosened it. My only surprise was the engine oil cooler. I took it to have it flushed and tested, turned out the cooler core was leaking. These are non-repairable and about $1,000 to replace.

flightlead404 12-18-2017 06:53 AM

You should definitely plan on replacing all the cam oil lines as well. Remember, there have been some design changes, you can't just replace the rubber/metal line as the other line won't fit. You need to buy the whole sets.

Brian911T 12-18-2017 10:27 AM

Flightlead I ended up replacing the cam oil lines as well.

Here are some pics after engine was cleaned up and valve covers painted.

I used VHT wrinkle finish for the valve covers.

T77911S 12-18-2017 11:12 AM

powder coat the tin.

mine started leaking between the chain housing and cam tower after I fixerd other leaks and put it back in,
then it leaked from the seal for the shift rod at the front of the tranny. I had to take it back out for that one and take the end of the tranny off.
also replaced the output flange seals.

the 3 tranny seals are ones to consider while out.

Brian911T 12-19-2017 07:29 AM

Moved to RMS

Used the old pilot bearing I was replacing to make a tool to install RMS using some hardware and pluming pipe. I wanted to make sure it went in straight.

Pic before I had it fully installed. I went with the Elring per what I read. Hope its the right one.

Brian911T 12-20-2017 06:26 PM

Moved to the cam oil lines and chain cover gaskets

Used Loctite 574 on all the gaskets

Brian911T 12-20-2017 06:34 PM

Brian911T 12-23-2017 07:03 AM

More pics

Made a soda blaster and rebuild throttle linkage

Looks like I had a leak at the input shaft. Got this cleaned up, replaced input shaft seal and shift rod seal.

Covered trans with Gibbs to prevent corrosion.

flightlead404 12-23-2017 09:10 AM

Am I the only one getting a little chubby from this?

Mocker 12-23-2017 02:45 PM

^No, I enjoy these threads too!

Tidy work, there, Brian.

Brian911T 12-24-2017 10:18 AM

Thanks guys.

This wasn't in my original plan but I read that its a good idea to rebuild the scavenge pump when installing a new turbo. I'm glad I did.

The previous owner over tightened the return oil line and stripped the threads. Guess his solution was to RTV it.

I was going to buy a used one but decided to try and fix it with a heli-coil which I have never done. The kit I bought came with a punch to remove the heli-coil tang that happened to be the same diameter as the smaller pilot hole inside the pump. This allowed me to align pump in my drill press vise on center when drilling out the stripped threads.

I realized after I inserted the heli-coil that I needed to clean up the mating surface where the copper washer seals. I made a sanding bit out of a washer & sandpaper to smooth the sealing surface. I wish I had taken a pic of the final product after cleaning.

Brian911T 12-24-2017 01:32 PM

Soda blasted everything, replaced shaft seal, front seal, and hardware.

Got really lucky and found a local metric hardware supplier that had this hardened rod in the exact size I needed so no cutting.

Garen 12-24-2017 07:58 PM

really nice work. That is one clean engine!

Brian911T 12-26-2017 05:25 PM

Thanks Garen. More pics of progress

Another unplanned item was the rear bearings. I found that my axles were leaking at the CV boot due to a tear. I figured the rear bearings should be done since I had the axles out for rebuilding.

Didn't take very many photos of the bearing remove but made a tool using a threaded rod and various pipe from Home Depot. Also used a heat gun and put bearings in the freezer overnight.

I strongly recommend putting your hubs in the freezer which helps when installing them and keeps you from forgetting to install the E-brake bracket first.

After I did the left side I learned that renting a slide hammer makes quick work of removing a hub. Took 5min vs. 30min on the left side

Brian911T 12-26-2017 05:29 PM

Prior to this project I was having intermittent issues with the rear emergency brake not releasing. I took this picture after I removed the E-brake cable that was covered in grease that I think was causing the issue.

Also cleaned up the trailing arms and installed new rear shocks

Carbster09 12-26-2017 05:54 PM

Funny, I am in the process of having much the same list; done by a mechanic though :(

I am also having the Transmission rebuilt with shorter 2 and 3 gears! I am so much looking forward to driving it. Plus some Fiskes (Fuchs) are on the way with new rubber!

dap930 12-27-2017 10:05 AM

Be thankful you have the 911 trailing arms which use a single bearing unit. The 930 trailing arms use two bearings separated by a crush sleeve that must be compressed to a certain endplay for the bearings when drawing up the axle nut. If you over do it, you tear it all apart to replace the crush sleeve and start over. The bearing races are separate and must be jacked out and new ones jacked back in.

Brian911T 12-27-2017 01:04 PM

Dap930 I have seen that and it looks a lot harder. I was not a big fan of replacing the bearings and don't look forward to doing it again.

Rebuilding the CV joints wasn't bad. It was faster to remove only one CV on each side of the axle and rebuild the other while still mounted. I still removed the bearings and cleaned everything up sliding the 2nd boot over the axle for the non removed side.

Brian911T 01-01-2018 01:30 PM

New Years update

After speaking with Mark Motshagen and seeing his work. I decided to send my fan to him. His work is amazing!!

Brian911T 01-03-2018 09:12 AM

More pics of progress.
Fitted new turbo and crossbar.

My shroud was a little rough so decided to repair and repaint.

Used a fiberglass repair kit to fix some cracks and clean up the mounting holes before paint.

Riveting the air deflector

Brian911T 01-03-2018 09:18 AM

While I was working on the shroud the new flywheel and clutch came in. My old flywheel was out of limits and couldn't be resurfaced which sucked.

Brian911T 01-06-2018 08:03 PM

Ok another item I wasn't planning but I found out when the previous owner did the swap he only ran one rear fuel pump. I decided to run dual fuel pumps like the oem 930's so I needed to replace my fuel lines so the tunnel lines could handle the pressure from the front pump. Also after seeing the fires caused by old fuel lines I wanted to replace them anyway. Thanks to Len Cummings (BoxsterGT) for making my fuel lines and helping me figure out how to pull them through the tunnel using the edger cord method.

After draining the fuel tank and disconnecting the fuel lines I ran edger cord through the old tunnel lines and the new lines. I also taped them together to keep the new lines clean.

This is a pic after I removed the pedal cluster at the front bulkhead. The '75 has a smaller return line so I only pulled the lines to this point so I could use a step drill bit to make the return hole larger on the right side of the photo.

This is the front side of the front bulkhead where I used the step drill bit from under the car. Dewalt makes a small right angle drill attachment which gave me access to drill the front return line hole without dropping the front steering rack. I also bought a step drill bit that northern tool sells that works with the Dewalt attachment. I used this method for the back hole before I started feeding the new lines in the tunnel.

After drilling out the hole and painting.

Best pic I could get in the small space after installing the new fuel lines and grommets.

Rear pic of the new lines and grommet installed.

I ran a separate relay for the front pump and fed the wires through the grommet at the brake master cylinder.

Attached the front pump to the front suspension after fabricating a mount and using some T-bolt clamps to hold it. I also used a piece of 2 3/8" silicone coupler hose to help quite down the fuel pump. I may change this later but its very secure.

TurboKraft 01-08-2018 11:11 AM

You're doing a great job!

Brian911T 01-10-2018 10:01 PM

Thanks Chris. This is my first Porsche and I am doing more than I ever thought I would be. I did small projects on my VW's when I was younger but never anything this involved. This forum and the people that take the time to contribute got me this far.

Brian911T 01-10-2018 10:18 PM

Had the pedal cluster out while I was doing the fuel lines so i decided to do some work on it. The paint was in decent shape so I just changed the bushings and installed the missing blue clutch assist spring.

I started installing the newly painted tins and the Rennline front cross bar.

slow&rusty 01-11-2018 04:33 AM

Keep the picture coming!
Awesome thread and great attention to detail.


Brian911T 01-11-2018 06:12 PM

Thanks Yasin. Again this wasn't in my original budget but I couldn't tell if my oil cooler was leaking or if it was oil from the breather cover leak. My oil cooler was in rough shape and I later found out that it did have a leak that was repaired. I sent it to Pacific Oil coolers and they did an amazing job. I am so impressed with the abilities of people to restore instead of replace.

Some before and after pics

Brian911T 01-12-2018 11:59 PM

Short version pics of the wiring harness clean up. I'm not a fan of electrical tape and wish I didn't have any but I did the best I could without replacing the entire wiring harness. I found a supplier for the green wire connector and I found a product called Insultherm for the sleeving.

1979-930 01-13-2018 07:24 AM

930 Targa Engine Drop & Upgrade Project
Great attention to detail!

It's pictures like these that will now have me disassembling and redoing my fan, cover and valve covers. I've got time. The Trans shop told me two months. I know that means three.

And put some caps or tape on those new injectors. It's bugging me [emoji3]

flightlead404 01-13-2018 08:30 AM


Originally Posted by Brian911T (Post 9881979)
Thanks Yasin. Again this wasn't in my original budget but I couldn't tell if my oil cooler was leaking or if it was oil from the breather cover leak. My oil cooler was in rough shape and I later found out that it did have a leak that was repaired. I sent it to Pacific Oil coolers and they did an amazing job. I am so impressed with the abilities of people to restore instead of replace.

I had several pinholes in my cooler. I was told by my local vendor (who I trust) that due to the way these are constructed, from memory bonded fins not welded, that repairs were a hit or miss thing if they would last.

I opted for a new ($1,000) cooler). Given the price and ease of replacement in the car perhaps its wise to give the repair a shot first, but keep an eye on it.

stevie 77 930 01-13-2018 01:12 PM

I love the attention to the details. Mark does amazing work with fan and housing. Great job

Brian911T 01-16-2018 08:59 PM

Thanks for the comments. It bugged me too Derrick, so I taped everything to keep it clean. More pics I of the final items being installed on the motor.

Stripped and painted oil tank. I didn't realize the vent tube was brass but painted it anyway. It scratched 2 sec after it was installed by brushing against the tins. I plan to replace this later with a tank from RarlyL8.

Installed new Tial F46 wastegate with .8 spring.

New return oil line from scavenge pump.

After I took this I decided I needed to repaint the intercooler. I'll post pics.

16Volt 01-17-2018 09:56 AM

Youre doing the lords work, nice job.

jjeffries 01-17-2018 12:18 PM

Very nice work and thanks for sharing it with excellent photos. I have an SC but have helped a local friend with his 930, and was amazed at the Rube Goldberg-esque design of the scavenge pump drive....a roll pin driven by the heads of two Allen cap screws. But it works! Best regards, John in CT

Brian911T 01-23-2018 02:02 PM

With a friends help I finished installing the motor last week!

Pic of intercooler after light coat of paint.

Had to keep that fan from hitting anything so I wrapped it in double wall cardboard

Lining up the motor mounts was a lot harder than I expected. Hard to tell in the photo but the extra weight on the left side was enough to keep everything from lining up. A 2nd jack on the turbo side helped align everything.

I installed a new sound pad and oil catch can I made.

Rebel Racing mounts.

I need to glue the corners on my intercooler seal. If anyone has a better solution or less expensive way to replace this over priced item please let me know.

flightlead404 01-23-2018 04:24 PM

What did you paint your shroud with? Mine will need some TLC when I drop the motor in a couple months.

Brian911T 01-23-2018 06:09 PM

flightlead404 I used krylon fusion (color:sun dried tomato) as others had recommended on some of the shroud painting threads. It looks great but if I had to do it over again I would use Max2K for a more resistant finish. Max2K makes a really good 1K/2k aerosol system. Also, there are companies that will custom color match Max2k in aerosols. A buddy told me about this paint while I was researching paint for my rear bumper and valance.

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