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-   -   smoking newbuild (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/1001374-smoking-newbuild.html)

otto_kretschmer 04-25-2019 10:23 PM
Trond,

How about just changing the oil to a dino oil and see what happens?

now I'm not trying to hijack this thread and turn it into an oil thread...….;)

but a change to Castrol 4T or some other dino motorcycle oil

or Rotella T if you can get it in 20/50

(hahaha..)

Harry998R 04-25-2019 10:59 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by brighton911 (Post 10439152)
I am very pleased to report that my oil consumption for the first 500 miles has been negligible. Proper bore finish, new rings and valve guide seals seem to have done the trick.

I really appreciate the sound advice from everyone. Nice to have a completely dry and smoke free engine. I've been fine tuning the Megasquirt system to make sure A/F mixtures are staying out of the rich zone. I also added a knock sensor so timing can be quickly pulled back in the event of knock. And while you are in there was also in the form of an aluminum pressure plate, a new disc and a resurfaced flywheel.

Also, thanks to Craig (Cgarr) for the great job on reconditioning my rockers.

Now to get out and enjoy the driving part, winter was just too long.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1556237437.JPG


Hi,

Do you mind telling me where you sourced the AFM delete pipe from?

Thanks,
Harry.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

brighton911 04-26-2019 03:14 AM
Harry, I believe I was able to find them on Ebay. Three pieces in all. A short pipe, a flange adapter mounted to the original holes on the airbox and a length of silicone hose to connect the two. I wanted to maintain the original airbox because it works well. The IAT (intake air temperature) sensor is mounted in the backside of the right hand tube.

brighton911 04-26-2019 08:45 AM
Trond, As per US Chrome, the cylinder plater, I cleaned the cylinder bores with a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid. The paper towel I used to wipe the bores had virtually nothing on them. Not convinced they were clean or right, I then used red Scotchbrite pads mounted on my spring arm hone to further clean the cylinders. After much time on each bore, I found the finish still did not look right. I switched to green Scotchbrite which are a little coarser. Amazing how much "soil" came out onto the green pads. I'm assuming it was oil glaze. Now the bores looked like new, with likely only the original fine honing marks showing (the chrome is quite hard)

cnavarro 05-12-2019 06:23 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by brighton911 (Post 10439869)
Trond, As per US Chrome, the cylinder plater, I cleaned the cylinder bores with a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid. The paper towel I used to wipe the bores had virtually nothing on them. Not convinced they were clean or right, I then used red Scotchbrite pads mounted on my spring arm hone to further clean the cylinders. After much time on each bore, I found the finish still did not look right. I switched to green Scotchbrite which are a little coarser. Amazing how much "soil" came out onto the green pads. I'm assuming it was oil glaze. Now the bores looked like new, with likely only the original fine honing marks showing (the chrome is quite hard)
We recommend using denatured alcohol with Kimwipes when cleaning Nickies.

If you have an ultrasonic parts washer, that is a great first step which will reduce the amount of elbow grease, leaving cleaning the Kimwipes/denatured alcohol as a final cleaning prior to assembly.


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