oil drips and drips and drips...

[snowman]

I just finished a 2.2T engine rebuild. I put the engine on a test stand and filled it with oil. Started ok, runs ok. but oil is dripping from everywhere!!!

It seeps from all the valve cover gaskets and the chain covers. It dosen't do anyworse when running. It never quits.
I have never seen anything like it.
I had the valve covers resurfaced and replaced the gaskets. The drips slowed, but are still there. I looked at the rocker arm shaft ends when the valve covers were off and they were dry around the shaft ends. I RTVed everything except the valve covers as they have to be removed frequently. The leaks seemed to mostly stop, but not at the valve covers. The covers leave an impression of the entire cover outline. The gaskets are the Green type.

Whats the secret to sealing one of these beasts?

[Jim Sims]

Clean, flat and ungouged sealing surfaces on cam towers and chain cases. Clean, flat and ungouged sealing surfaces on covers. Properly torqued nuts; many leaks can be traced to overtightening of nuts thereby warping covers. I also lightly coat my gaskets if they're the traditonal paper type with Curil-T compound. Not a leak to be seen. I wouldn't use RTV or silicone rubber; it can break off in little pieces and clog oil passageways. Cheers, Jim

[Groesbeck Hurricane]

Jack,

While the motor is still out, get a preview copy of Wayne's re-build book, 101 projects, and Bentley. I found out after the re-build that my fully calibrated torque wrenches weren't done correctly. This is the root cause of my leaks. Many people swear by (and now I do also) the old fashioned kind as they are always in calibration no matter the weather.

In the re-build book Wayne has many of the questions you have already answered and gives very good descriptions on how to proceed. It is a nice step by step guide.

Jim is dead on, but I would add to apply anerobic sealer to the metal to metal mating surfaces. I think it is Loctite 571, but please verify prior to purchase. It might need to be special ordered, as was my case. This will only harden in the absense of oxygen so any excess on the inside of the case will come out on your first oil change. Best of luck, and keep asking questions.

[Wayne 962]

Right-o, I couldn't have said it any better. The key to the leak-free engine is flat, and CLEAN surfaces. Most people don't clean them well enough (a mistake that I too have made before), and this results in a leaky engine.

My suggestion? Tear it down, clean it, and reseal it again. Read the Engine Rebuild book for tips on where and how to clean...

-Wayne

[tryan]

hylomar seals tough leaks on 30+ year old boat motors. how 'bout those r.e.a.l. vavle cover gaskets. proper torque used. overtightening will cause leaks.

[ChrisBennet]

Yeah Jack, ditch the RTV before we have to organize an "intervention". Put the gaskets on dry.
-Chris

[911pcars]

If the valve cover gaskets are okay, I'd look for a source of pressurized oil leakage. Using turbo lower valve covers?

Gravity will take any oil leak and, with the aid of the cooling fan, distribute it quite evenly to all parts of the lower engine. Here are some areas to look at if you haven't already:
- engine thermostat
- oil pressure sending unit
- cam housing lube lines/fittings (and/or pressure fed chain tensioner lines)
- oil breather hose (from oil filler neck)

Also, cam housing-to-cylinder head joint.

Since the engine is out, these areas should be fairly easy to check.

Sherwood Lee
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

[snowman]

Must be I am over torquing the valve covers. What is the correct torque? I got the number I use from Haynes book.

Both surfaces are spotless. Covers were resurfaced to boot. Head was completely dissasembled, hot tanked, bead blasted, washed, and washed again with Tide and hot water. I have never had a problem like this, ever, including 912, 356, Vw and even chevy engines!

[Jim Sims]

Beaded green silicone gasket: 6 ft-lbs or 72 in-lbs
"permanant type" red silicone gasket : 4 ft-lbs or 48 in-lbs

[snowman]

Thank you. thats my problem. The Haynes book has 48 Ft lbs, a VERY big difference.

[snowman]

Correction, thats 18 Ft lbs, still a large difference.

[Jim Sims]

If you used 18 ft-lbs the covers have likely been warped again. Remove and sand flat or replace. Cheers, Jim

[Plavan]

I replaced my upper valve covers with the aluminum type (new). Wayne in his book has an incorrect torque setting for these. If memory serves me correctly he says 5.9 or 8 (book not in front of me) That caused leaks. I then talked to a mechanic/racer friend he said 18lbs. I retorqued to 18lbs..... not leaks!

[911pcars]

Plavan,
I'm not disputing how tight you twisted the nuts to stop the valve cover oil leaks, but the correct torque for valve cover fasteners is closer to 5 ft.lb than 18 (It's 5-6 ft.lb.). 18 is the approx. recommended torque for an M8 fastener in normal situations (metal-to-metal joints). This amount would normally distort the valve cover and crush the gasket. You must have pulverized it evenly. Did you install dry or with gasket sealer?

BTW, what was the range of the torque wrench and the socket drive size (square end)?

Sherwood Lee

[Plavan]

I was told never to use any gasket sealer on any of the valve covers. I am talking about the upper valve covers not the lower ones. I torqued to 18lbs and that stopped all the leaks I had from those covers (brand new alum not Mag) This is the correct torque that other mechanics have verified. Rememeber you are also using the aluminum "crush washers". Always use new hardware each time you remove the covers.