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				Sealing case,covers etc
			 
			
			About to start my 3.0 rebuild. Most all of the aluminum will be bead blasted and wondering what the suggested coating/sealer is? 
		
	
		
	
			
				Tks gents. ed  | 
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			 Ingenieur 
			
			
		
			
			
								
		
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			I have been using the sealant kit from Supertec. Works very well! Available from Pelican. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=sealant+kit regards, al 
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	[B]Current projects: 69-911.5, Previous:73 911X (off to SanFrancisco/racing in Germany).77 911S (NY), 71E (France/Corsica), 66-912 ( France), 1970 914X (Wisconsin) 76 911S roller..off to Florida/Germany RGruppe #669 http://www.x-faktory.com/  | 
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			Are you looking for suggestions on what sealants to use while assembling, or what sort of coating (if any) you should use to protect the newly media blasted parts?? 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			Cheers 
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	Turn3 Autosport- Full Service and Race Prep www.turn3autosport.com 997 S 4.0, Cayman S 3.8, Cayenne Turbo, Macan Turbo, 69 911, Mini R53 JCW , RADICAL SR3  | 
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			So you are going to have ALL the motor parts bead blasted?  Case, valve covers, cam housings, etc? 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			That is a matter of debate. Personally I would not bead blast my motor parts. Yea, the pros do it 'cuz it is fast and it gets things clean. Probably OK for heads. But a friend of mine, who runs a machine shop specializing in air cooled stuff with over 30 years of experience, showed me some heads that someone bead blasted. The seating surfaces were so rough that he was going to have to machine them in order for them to seat. Now, if the correct size of bead is used, the beads are not old and fractured, the correct pressure is used and the operator knows what he is doing, well you will probably be ok. There are other ways to get the parts clean and polished. Then use Gibbs to protect. 
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	Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage  | 
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			Apologies guys. I guess that my question was not very clear 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	Wondering what to apply to the exterior aluminum surfaces post bead blast FYI I followed Wayne s suggestions which parts were safe to bead Looking forward to getting my 3.0 back together Tks for your suggestions & Have a great Holiday ed  | 
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			outsider as trackrash said .....also have a look here ..that is using the proper engine case loctite 574. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			I do it like this for many many years..my technique... Ivan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoOEFOkC2aA this the only amount you need to apply to the case.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IandhtwG5no and cylinder heads https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STWf7WnC4xo 
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			spray it down with some Gibbs
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc.  | 
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			Craig 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	Do you spray the engine down after its assembled? or each part individually? tks ed  | 
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			I do some of the parts I rebuild like head sealing surfaces then sent to the customer,  but if I was building an engine I would do it after assembled unless the parts are in storage for awhile.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	______________________ Craig G2Performance Twinplug, head work, case savers, rockers arms, etc.  | 
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			I would reconsider bead blasting the outside of any factory finished parts unless they are badly corroded. The as cast surface has an oxide layer that helps protect it from the elements. Once removed it will be far more susceptible to corrosion. This especially applies to mag. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			If you need to blast you will need a good wash primer followed by a matt clear coat. Sikkens makes some nice products but you will need a pro to do them properly. Here is a 3.2 intake a friend of mine just did. 
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	Anthony PCA affiliate '77 member '83 '90 3.8 RS tribute, 91 C4 converted to C2,'93 964 C2, '93 928 GTS M '94 Turbo 3.6, '15 Boxster GTS M,16 GT4,23 Macan GTS, Gone worth mentioning '71 E '79 SC, '79 built to '74 3.0 RS tribute (2390 # 270 hp), '80 928 euro 5 speed, '74 2.0l 914, '89 944 S2,'04 Cayenne TT '14 boxster, '14 Cayenne GTS 14 Cayman S, 18 Macan GTS many others  | 
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			I should have suggested if you have access to a vapor degreaser that always works well. My case was a mess prior to degreasing. 
		
	
		
	
			
			
				
					![]() My tranny was already heavily corroded and the oxide layer destroyed. After a bit of cleaning I hit it with Sikkens spray wash primer in a rattle can followed by Por 15 aluminum paint also in a rattle can. After a week I sprayed brake cleaner on it and it was not effected. I prefer the clean oxide finish but this is OK. I wasn't about to pull the entire tranny apart to bead blast and have my friend paint.  
		
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	Anthony PCA affiliate '77 member '83 '90 3.8 RS tribute, 91 C4 converted to C2,'93 964 C2, '93 928 GTS M '94 Turbo 3.6, '15 Boxster GTS M,16 GT4,23 Macan GTS, Gone worth mentioning '71 E '79 SC, '79 built to '74 3.0 RS tribute (2390 # 270 hp), '80 928 euro 5 speed, '74 2.0l 914, '89 944 S2,'04 Cayenne TT '14 boxster, '14 Cayenne GTS 14 Cayman S, 18 Macan GTS many others  | 
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