What is the trickiest part of your first 911 engine rebuild

[tdskip]

Just to keep it interesting, I'd be starting with a 2.7 (but its from a 1974 non-thermal reactor car at least).

Thanks!

[Catorce]

In your case, it will be getting the magnesium case properly machined back to stock specs. Everything else is cake!

[jamesjedi]

Be patient. If you are not certain about a process - stop and research the solution.

[Flat6pac]

Getting the 2 #1 bearing studs lined up, the intermediate shaft stud lined up and having the 3 upward rods standing while lowering the case half down.
And don’t touch the sealant...
Bruce

[stanglife]

Explaining to my wife why Porsche parts cost so much.

[Catorce]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Getting the 2 #1 bearing studs lined up, the intermediate shaft stud lined up and having the 3 upward rods standing while lowering the case half down.
And don’t touch the sealant...
Bruce

Use the metal rod holders. Sooooo much better, no drama at all.

[tdskip]

Originally Posted by Catorce

In your case, it will be getting the magnesium case properly machined back to stock specs. Everything else is cake!

Thanks for all of the responses gentlemen.

I'd send the case out, so were back to the "why is this so expensive" warning. Grin.

Does Wayne's book cover it well enough that, along with coaching here, it's all covered?

[Catorce]

^yes, assuming you have basic mechanical skills.

[tdskip]

Originally Posted by Catorce

^yes, assuming you have basic mechanical skills.

At this point I’d like to think so!

Thanks for the encouragement.

[jamesjedi]

Wayne's book is a MUST.

Any machine work will need to be done by an experienced machine shop. I know nothing about the 2.7 case other than the expense involved in getting it ready for a rebuild. The heads need to be done by a recommended shop.

[stanglife]

I keep hearing about This book of Wayne. . Is it equally valuable for a 3.6 964 build?

[jamesjedi]

Great question. It is not specific to the 3.6. You will get the right idea - works ok when combined with factory manual.

I found the information on the 3.6 limited. The 3.0, and 2.7 information is vast. Wayne’s book is must for me. I also use the factory manual and the Bentley service book.

[Gordo2]

I would have to say there were 2 steps / processes that made me second guess if I really knew what I was doing & not sure if it got it right:

(1) Installing new cam's & confirming that the cam sprockets were spaced correctly. Measured 20 times, installed once...

(2) Cam timing. Never really felt like it was a precise setting - felt like it was slightly better than ballpark close... Measured x 20, installed once...

Gordo

[tdskip]

That will be the approach I need too.

I also wanted to ask if there is a middle ground of taking everting apart and getting the machine work done at a known shop and having a builder assemble?

[Walt Fricke]

Measuring chain wheel parallelism without the proper tools.

By all means do it yourself - you'll learn a lot. Wayne's book covers just about everything. I also like Bruce Anderson's (the RIP Bruce)book on the 911. Good to have both. Factory manuals are nice, but they are made for factory trained mechanics, and often it is hard to figure out what is old and what is new because they had an original two volume set, and then came out with four additional volumes, and various things simply aren't mentioned (for instance, while Wayne gives a head stud and cam carrier stud bolt tightening pattern, the factory manual makes no mention of this).

Because you have a 2.7, the cams are easier to set than the later center bolt cams. You do need the cam tools, but once you realize that there is some slop in the pin, and with care you can wiggle it to where you want to be once you have things lined up within the spec you want, partly tighten, recheck, and then - if within spec - torque down, you can get it.

[tdskip]

Thanks Walt. Do I need to buy those tools or can I likely track down loaners in SoCal?

Where would you all recommend sending the heads? Case?

[Walt Fricke]

You need the C shaped large (46mm??)offset socket, and the cam holder (the end of the cam is a circle with two opposite sides sliced off). You can use a breaker bar for removal of the big nut, and your torque wrench for the final tightening. I need a piece of 1/2" iron pipe 3 or 4 feet long to slip over the rod which sticks out of the cam holder. You need to slip it all the way up to the head, because if you just put it on half way the rod will bend - a lot of torque on this big nut.

I like to use a (46mm??)3/4" or inch equivalent socket with an impact wrench to remove this big nut because I don't have to hold the cam, but the adapter works just fine for this, just takes a bit more time and effort.

I'm sure you will find someone near where you live who can lend you these tools.

Mind you, this only applies to that actual 2.7 engine you mention. The 3.2s in your inventory require only one special cam tool, though it is quite different.

[tdskip]

Super helpful Walt, thank you.

What do you guys think of my idea to disassemble and get all the machining done and then have a pro put it back together? The machining would obviously have to be to the professional shop’s standards and most likely via their preferred shop .

[colingreene]

finding the money to pay for it.

[tdskip]

Originally Posted by colingreene

finding the money to pay for it.

Ha, and likely true.

Good to meet you the other day, small world!